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850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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erikv11
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Volvo Repair Database 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by erikv11 »

As a companion to a similar thread for turbo cars (http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=63615), here is a thread dedicated to documenting the vacuum lines in the non-turbo (NA) 850 and 98 S/V/C70. I know that what I am posting here is good for 95+ without EGR, someone else will have to help out with 93 and 94 differences and/or for EGR.

First the stickers, then the photographs.
For cars still equipped with SAS:
vacuum diagram, with SAS
vacuum diagram, with SAS
The simpler diagram for cars without SAS:
vacuum diagram, no SAS
vacuum diagram, no SAS
If by chance you got a vehicle with SAS, you may wish to delete the whole system. Now. Do a search, it is very cheap and very easy. If you are queasy about deleting emissions equipment, consider that about half of the cars shipped with it, half without; would you go out and install the expensive and finicky SAS parts if you happened to get a car without it? By now the SAS is usually not working properly anyway.

So this post will cover non-SAS vehicles only, none of my cars have SAS. Maybe someone else can post up the SAS info.

There are basically 8 vacuum lines in the engine bay to deal with:
1 - vacuum tree to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
2 - vacuum tree to the airbox cover, upper nipple
3 - intake manifold (IM) nipple to the flame trap nipple
4 - throttle body nipple to the purge valve
5 - purge valve to the charcoal canister
6 - airbox cover, lower nipple, to the bottom half of the airbox
7 - fitting on the throttle body to the brake booster
8 - cruise control pump back through the firewall

Here the eight lines are marked on the diagram:
vacuum diagram, no SAS, annotated
vacuum diagram, no SAS, annotated
Now, some pics. Most of these images are from a non-running car out in my driveway, so the engine bay is dirty and the battery is missing etc. However I installed fresh, red, silicone vac lines just before the car stopped being used so they are easy to see.
Overview of engine bay
Overview of engine bay
Start with the vacuum tree, note that three ports/nipples are capped and two have vac lines on them (lines 1 and 2):
vacuum tree
vacuum tree
vacuum tree and nearby lines
vacuum tree and nearby lines
Lines 1, 2 and 4 from above
Lines 1, 2 and 4 from above
Where line 1 attaches to the FPR, is nearby to one end of line 3:
lines 1 and 3 from the front
lines 1 and 3 from the front
line 1 attaching to the fuel pressure regulator (the unmarked line is #3)
line 1 attaching to the fuel pressure regulator (the unmarked line is #3)
Line 3 "starts" at the nipple on the intake manifold. This one can be a PITA to work with, and note that silicone line is NOT recommended in this application as it will sweat oil and get all slimy. Use a generic 3/16 rubber vacuum line here.
line 3 coming off the nipple on the intake manifold
line 3 coming off the nipple on the intake manifold
Line 3 can be routed over, under, around the intake manifold, whatever works, so that the other end attaches to a plastic nipple on the flame trap. Here are some pictures of that from other vehicles. The first pic shows the flame trap housing out of the car and opened up. The piece with all the little holes is the flame trap insert. If the insert is still in your car, remove it and throw it away, all it does is get clogged up. Then just close up the housing. The white hose in the pic is what we are calling line 3 here, it is connected to the flame trap nipple.
line 3 at the flame trap from the amazing head gasket writeup at http://www.tracystruesoaps.com/tutorials/850hg/p1.html; there is great info there about vacuum lines too, including EGR!
line 3 at the flame trap from the amazing head gasket writeup at http://www.tracystruesoaps.com/tutorials/850hg/p1.html; there is great info there about vacuum lines too, including EGR!
flame_trap_tracys.jpg (41.38 KiB) Viewed 9317 times
Here is a shot of line 3 (in generic 3/16 vac line) attached to a flame trap housing that is in the car; note that the distributor cap is removed from this vehicle, so you can see the back end of the intake cam in the lower right corner:
line 3 at flame trap housing
line 3 at flame trap housing
Line 2 runs from the tree over to the top of the air box, where we also get a look at line 6 that goes from the air box top around to the air box bottom:
lines 2 and 6
lines 2 and 6
Line 6 viewed from the front of the car, attaching to the air box stat just out of view in the lower right
Line 6 viewed from the front of the car, attaching to the air box stat just out of view in the lower right
From directly overhead you can again see line 4, it starts at a nipple on the intake and heads to the radiator fan shroud where is connects to a purge valve:
line 4 from intake
line 4 from intake
line 4 at the purge valve
line 4 at the purge valve
Note that the purge valve can be round or square, this car has the round type. And then off the bottom of the purge valve we have line 5, I do not have documentation of the other end of line 5 at the charcoal canister:
line 5, bottom of purge valve
line 5, bottom of purge valve
And finally line 7 is a thick-walled line from the intake/throttle body over to the brake booster. From the factory, this line was black and very thick. A thick silicone line works well here too, or you can go with rubber:
Looking in at line 7 from the passenger side
Looking in at line 7 from the passenger side
Line 7 meets a connector under the airbox, I did not remove the airbox to document that.
Line 7 disappears under the airbox on its way to the brake booster at the firewall.
Line 7 disappears under the airbox on its way to the brake booster at the firewall.
I have a couple shots of line 8 but they are not very good so I did not post them. The cruise control pump mounts on the bottom of the battery tray, and has one vacuum line that runs back and through the firewall.
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k
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Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by matthew1 »

I'll crosslink to this from the turbo vac lines post and VRD entry. Great post, Erik.

EDIT: I see you already did :-) I'll add one up top.
Last edited by matthew1 on Wed Jul 30, 2014 8:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
2004 V70 R [gone]

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abscate
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Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by abscate »

Nicely donee thanks Erik!
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thedjerk
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Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2014 12:15 pm
Year and Model: 1996 850 non-turbo
Location: United States

Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by thedjerk »

Thanks a lot, Erik. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's been dying for this post.
sunstate850owner
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 11:23 am
Year and Model: 1995 850 sedan
Location: United States

Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by sunstate850owner »

Great post Erik. I have been hoping for this info for a long time. I have a long standing cel that comes up as "long term and short term fuel trim" that I am counting on being a vacuum leak. I'll know soon thanks to you! One small piece of info that would be handy for having the vac lines on hand before popping the hood - what size(s) are they? and where did you get that cool red line? My car is a 95 850 that just cracked 200K miles and I keep it running based on info from this site. Thanks Mathew!
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erikv11
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Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by erikv11 »

The silicone looks cool (it typically comes in red, blue or black), is easy to work with and will last forever, but rubber is much cheaper and will last for several years. You can't really go wrong either way but if you buy silicone it is worth buying from a reputable vendor, some of the lines on eBay are very thin walled and maybe not worth your time.

Here are notes about the sizes, everything is listed in terms of ID (inside diameter).

Lines 1, 2, 5, 6 and 8: For these I use all the same, small diameter line. I know for a fact that either 3.5 mm (9/64 inch) or 4 mm (5/32 inch) works well in all of these locations. If you go with 4 mm you may want to ensure some attachments with a small ziptie or a clamp. Tighten sensibly, don't overly squish the silicone with metal clamps.

Line 3: Use 3/16 rubber vacuum line. Don't use silicone; it will work OK but it will sweat oil and make a mess. 4 feet is more than enough for a non-turbo car, it will be inexpensive.

Line 4: This line is 6 mm (1/4 inch).

Line 7: This brake booster line is 8 mm ID (5/16 inch). Be sure to use something thick-walled here. No cheapo hoses allowed, it's your brakes. Fuel line is good if you go with rubber.

For lengths you're going to have to go out and measure if you want to be sure. Offhand, for one car I would probably get 15 feet of the smallest, then 3 feet of the 6 mm and 3 feet of the 8 mm. That's overkill on all of them but a little leftover can be handy later on. Cost before shipping would be about $25. You could probably get that down to $16 if you measured.

I bought the silicone line in the pics from another forum user, who had it left over from one of the "kits" you can find. But I did later buy more of the small (4 mm) line from siiconeintakes.

So I would recommend either go with straight rubber hoses (any auto parts store) or for immortalized hoses go with siliconeintakes (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/), look for the "Boost/Vacuum Hose" link. Their prices are among the lowest out there ($1.00 to $1.50 per foot for the sizes listed here), shipping is fast, and most importantly the quality is excellent. Their lines are very thick walled which is more important on a turbo vehicle, but still a nice way to go on the NA. And essential for the brake booster.
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k
fiore67
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Year and Model: 93 850. 95 850
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Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by fiore67 »

From the tree where does # 2 go to.
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Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by FLXC90 »

On the back side of the air cleaner housing, there should be two vacuum nipples in what looks like a clamp. Number two is the upper nipple. the lower will route down to the the bottom of the airbox, where the preheater duct comes from the exhaust. (#6 in the pictures) This connects to the preheat air thermostat for the airbox.
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
John850GLT
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Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by John850GLT »

Finally, a source! Thank you! On a possibly related topic:

Although I am sure my P0133 code (slow O2 sensor Bank 1 sensor 1) is due to my deteriorating headliner (what else is left to check?, and I've checked plenty), your posting lets me know my vacuum tree is correctly done, and that's a relief.
I can find no more vacuum line leaks, nor any exhaust leak. Both sensors replaced with Bosch OEM by previous owner at 138,000, and I at 170,000 (5 years later), but that code dogs me. My then-mechanic didn't record the code(s) coming up for that job, and I then knew no better, so will replace front again after checking the brake boost line for integrity.
Car runs very well, but mileage dropping. Never a stutter or hard start (until I reconnected my pre-heat hose-sadly, valve in air mix box can't be replaced, as recorded also by Jim Peisker in his postings on his '97 wagon).
If anyone has this code issue, and any insight, would much appreciate help. I've read the web to death on this, but that doesn't mean I didn't miss the obvious or the posted.

Thanks
joe_pinehill
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Year and Model: 850 1996
Location: United States

Re: 850 and S/V/C70 non-turbo vacuum lines

Post by joe_pinehill »

thanks for the informative post, definitely one for the archives, and PDF'ing to save locally! Its timely for me, I was cleaning the throttle body and notice Line 3 needs to be replaced. A combination of oil and being routed right under the throttle body linkage. The linkage looks like it rubs against the line. The result is after years, the end by the flametrap is gummy and has a hole.

Can line three be replaced without taking the fuel rail and intake manifold off? Can I snake a new line under intake manifold? Will the original have clamps on it under the manifold or should the line simple be able to be pulled out by pulling the end attached to the intake manifold nipple?
96 850 GLT
RIP '90 240 DL, 285K, someone ran a stop sign in front of me
RIP '89 760 Wagon, 200K
RIP '83 240 Wagon, rusted out
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