99 s70 cv boot replacement

Post by **mr_dave** » 22 Nov 2007, 17:34

I wanted to say thanks for the help and 'close the loop'. My 850 wagon has 92k miles and the R CV boot went bad. I replaced the axel, L and R struts, spring seats and strut mounts. The Right spring seat had failed so I'm glad I bought the full set of parts from FCP Groton. I was lucky to have air tools and the job took 4 hrs and 50 min. After alignment, the car is poifect.

Thanks again,
Mr_dave

rsmigel · Post by **rsmigel** » 01 Jan 2009, 07:38

pfeener wrote:The LH side has a cir clip, but it's nothing you have to compress or remove. It works the same as all the other cars you've worked on. You need to apply enough pressure with a pry bar to overcome the clip holding the axle. The RH side has no clip. Once the intermediate bearing cap is removed the axle will slide right out.

I accidently pinched (tore) my RH side INNER CV Boot while replacing the OUTER CV boot, and have attempted a temporary repair using a bicycle tire patch kit. I doubt it will hold but I'm trying anyway as I don't want to pull the whole thing apart after I just put the whole thing back together.

A few questions:

1) Do I need to use a hammer to tap the axle out of the tranny once I take off the intermediate bearing cap?

2) Will the tranny fluid drain out of the hole after I pull the axle? If so, I'll need to buy more fluid.

3) Does the inner CV joint disassemble just like the outer joint by spreading the C-clip? With the constrained space, I don't see doing this 'on the car'.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 01 Jan 2009, 08:58

Bicycle patch kit might work. If you can leave it without driving it for a day, you might reinforce it with RTV just to be on the safe side- just keep an eye on it.

For your questions, really depends on which side (for question
1). The passenger side seems to slide out for most people with just a tug. The driver's side tends to take the 2 prongs opposite each other to get the axle past the circlip. I guess I would be concerned as to where to hit with the hammer- you don't want to bugger up any of the attachment sections. Best to try to "pry" out of the transmission when possible rather than banging.
2). Some tranny fluid might drain out. I bought the transmission to axle seals just in case it was more than draining out "over" the seals but never had to use them. You won't lose much at all (unless you're talking about a manual transmission), but yeah, it's always a great idea to have a bottle of transmission fluid around (most use regular Dexron III if you're wondering, although if your car is a 2000 model or later, it could use JWS-3309 fluid, so check your owner's manual).
3). To do the inner, I also don't see how you'll do it it with the axle still attached to the tranny. If you're in that far, best to pull it out and do it on a work bench. The inners come apart exactly like the outers. Hope this helps.

Btw, Happy New Year!
-MIJ

rsmigel · Post by **rsmigel** » 01 Jan 2009, 10:05

This is the right, passenger side inner CV boot. So when I take off the intermediate bearing support, then the entire axle should slide out, right?

Good idea about the automatic transmission seal. Is that easily pried out?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 01 Jan 2009, 10:31

Yes, and yes...on your second question, a sharp object, like a pick helps with this...be careful not to score the inside of the opening. Good luck and let us know how things go.

rsmigel · Post by **rsmigel** » 01 Jan 2009, 12:48

Great, I've got a bunch of custom bent and ground small old screwdrivers that I've made over the years. One should work just fine...

rsmigel · Post by **rsmigel** » 05 Jul 2009, 09:19

It appears that my 'bike patch' fix fails consistently after about one month; the grease just seems to break downt he glue bond. So now I'm in the process of removing my passenger side axle and I'm wondering if the type of c-clip holding the inner CV joint together is the same type of c-clip used to hold the outer CV joint together. If so, then I've got the correct c-clip pliers and I don't need to buy another.

I've got a 1994 850 turbo wagon.

Thanks in advance!

Post by **Brucebo** » 02 Jun 2010, 14:56

Somebody should make/offer/sell boots with a ZIPPER on the side!!! Can you imagine the labor saved!

-Bruce

Post by **j_cd** » 02 Jun 2010, 15:05

When we did the driver's side axle on my '98, the transmission seal that we ordered didn't match the one that was on there. Luckily the old one was perfectly fine.

Post by **Brucebo** » 13 Jun 2010, 01:56

I just replaced the left front axle on my wife's '96 850. The outer boot was torn. The most difficult activities I encountered were getting the ball joint free of the spindle, and getting the axle out of the transmission. For the latter I finally ended up using a flat pry bar coming up vertically from underneath to pry it loose. This was the only spot where I had enough clearance for the pry bar. I also had to wrestle with the spindle to get it back into the balljoint because of the residual forces from the strut, tie rod, and sway bar. It would have been easy with two people, one to hold the spindle and the other to align it and push in the balljoint, but with only me, right hand trying to hold and align the spindle and left hand trying to push in the ball joint, it proved somewhat difficult. One mistake I made was at one point I wanted to turn the wheels to get some better access. In order to unlock the steering wheel I had to take it out of park. In order to take it out of park I had to put my foot on the brake, forgetting the caliper was off the rotor ..., out comes the c-clamp to spread the pads ...

-Bruce

99 s70 cv boot replacement

'96 850T R axel replacement