I'm trying to replace my fuel pump on 1999 S80 2.9. \
A special volvo tool is called for (999-5720) in vadis. I ignored that guidance and am stuck, unable to remove nuts securing pump and covering left side port.
Any one have suggestion?
What tool to use to remove Fuel pump nut
What tool to use to remove Fuel pump nut
Last edited by fusselman on 16 Jul 2010, 18:27, edited 1 time in total.
I assume you mean the tank pump. I changed one on a '85 740 once. It was quite a challenge. I think the operation may be similar on your car. If so, I am glad to offer this idea and hope it helps you. If, like me, you are doing your own work to save repair costs on a car that has depreciated down to very little, the expense of a one-trick Volvo tool defeats the purpose. Although, it would have been really nice to have one when I did this.
On the 740 there is a small rectangular panel in the trunk that provides access to the tank pump assembly. The access hole underneath the panel is barely any larger than the nut and only an inch or so above the closest point of the nut. You can touch the nut easily but it is impossible to position your hand(s) so that you can get any leverage on the it. The hole would need to be much larger to allow that. The nut may have been installed by hand at the factory but over the years it ends up very tight (shrinkage, etc).
All I could think of to do was to use a hammer and a cheap blade screwdriver with a long shank and very carefully pound the end of the screwdriver as you would a chisel. What you are trying to do, though, is to get the nut to move, rather than to actually chisel into the nut. There are stubby flanges all around the circumference of the nut. I placed the tip of the blade screwdriver in the corner where the very short flanges meet the rest of the body of the nut. Then, while keeping the tip there, tried to position the screwdriver as close to a tangent to the circle of the nut as possible. Then I started tapping away, gradually increasing the force of my hammer-strikes as my frustration grew. As it turned out, the nut was able to sustain a pretty good whack without cracking. Ideally you would want to work your way around the circle, tapping on each successive flange in case the build-up between the threads of the nut and what it is threaded onto has become harder at some position around the circle than at any other position. But the position of the nut in relation to the access hole only allows you to position the screwdriver nearest to a tangent to the circle (as I recall) at one point towards the front of the car and one towards the rear, or, perhaps it is better to say at the highest point on the nut and the lowest. I should probably mention that I was actually sitting in the trunk with an emergency light in order to do this. It was maddening but eventually I was able to dislodge the nut this way so that I could unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. What slowed me down the most were two things: 1) All the time insisting to myself that there had to be a better way and trying to figure out what it was, and 2) not striking hard enough with the hammer out of fear of damaging the nut.
Good luck, you can do it!
On the 740 there is a small rectangular panel in the trunk that provides access to the tank pump assembly. The access hole underneath the panel is barely any larger than the nut and only an inch or so above the closest point of the nut. You can touch the nut easily but it is impossible to position your hand(s) so that you can get any leverage on the it. The hole would need to be much larger to allow that. The nut may have been installed by hand at the factory but over the years it ends up very tight (shrinkage, etc).
All I could think of to do was to use a hammer and a cheap blade screwdriver with a long shank and very carefully pound the end of the screwdriver as you would a chisel. What you are trying to do, though, is to get the nut to move, rather than to actually chisel into the nut. There are stubby flanges all around the circumference of the nut. I placed the tip of the blade screwdriver in the corner where the very short flanges meet the rest of the body of the nut. Then, while keeping the tip there, tried to position the screwdriver as close to a tangent to the circle of the nut as possible. Then I started tapping away, gradually increasing the force of my hammer-strikes as my frustration grew. As it turned out, the nut was able to sustain a pretty good whack without cracking. Ideally you would want to work your way around the circle, tapping on each successive flange in case the build-up between the threads of the nut and what it is threaded onto has become harder at some position around the circle than at any other position. But the position of the nut in relation to the access hole only allows you to position the screwdriver nearest to a tangent to the circle (as I recall) at one point towards the front of the car and one towards the rear, or, perhaps it is better to say at the highest point on the nut and the lowest. I should probably mention that I was actually sitting in the trunk with an emergency light in order to do this. It was maddening but eventually I was able to dislodge the nut this way so that I could unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. What slowed me down the most were two things: 1) All the time insisting to myself that there had to be a better way and trying to figure out what it was, and 2) not striking hard enough with the hammer out of fear of damaging the nut.
Good luck, you can do it!
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pkc303
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Use a oil filter wrench. Not the flexible kind, but the kind with teeth. It is sold at Auto Zone, etc...
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- try one of these
- oil filter wrench.jpg (12.5 KiB) Viewed 3455 times
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to try either pkc's suggestion or a generic in tank pump removal tool like the following...
I'll try to do a write up on the this as Vadis was somewhat vague in my newbie opinion...
I'll try to do a write up on the this as Vadis was somewhat vague in my newbie opinion...
The generic tool above worked quite well. Was $18. I had to modify it with a grinder to fit the volvo spacing, removing the extra length and reducing the width of the teeth.
Newbie hints not covered in VADIS
1.) Fuel lines release by squeezing small button allowing them to splip off nipples.
2.) Its obvious in retrospect, but you need to clean the area around the ports well with a shop vac and rags; and when placing the new pump remove the covers over the new nipples... I did not and ended up pulling the unit out and fishing the cover. Would have been worse if it had fallen into the tank proper.
3.) Once you've put it back together. You can prime the system by moving key to the third position between 5 and 10 times.Should start right up.
Newbie hints not covered in VADIS
1.) Fuel lines release by squeezing small button allowing them to splip off nipples.
2.) Its obvious in retrospect, but you need to clean the area around the ports well with a shop vac and rags; and when placing the new pump remove the covers over the new nipples... I did not and ended up pulling the unit out and fishing the cover. Would have been worse if it had fallen into the tank proper.
3.) Once you've put it back together. You can prime the system by moving key to the third position between 5 and 10 times.Should start right up.
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