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New Radiator Advice Please

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » How Much for a Volvo Keyfob?!
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jlgood50
Posts: 3
Joined: 18 October 2010
Year and Model: 960 1997
Location: Ringgold, Ga

New Radiator Advice Please

Post by jlgood50 »

Hi guys,

I am ready to purchase a new radiator for my 97 960. My aluminum one with plastic tanks has developed bad leaks down the left side where the plastic tanks are joined with the radiator. Is this normal? The guy I purchased the car from, 21 months ago, put a new aftermarket radiator in it. Now I'm thinking he purchased one of the $85 ones off Ebay.
I have researched brands from Nissen, CSF, Spectra etc. Do I want to get a copper one with steel tanks, aluminum with plastic tanks, copper with plastic tanks? So many to choose from. Most are only warrantied 1 -2 years.
What are your thoughts on this matter?

I appreciate your help!

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billofdurham
MVS Moderator
Posts: 6507
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model: 855, 1995
Location: Durham, England
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Post by billofdurham »

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

The original radiator had an aluminium core and plastic tanks and that is what I would be looking at. However, Volvo original parts do run expensive, about $320, and it pays to shop around. We have three sponsors at the top of the forum: IPD, FCP and VolvoWholesaleParts. Their adverts are links to their websites and you can easily check and compare prices. Mention your membership of this forum for a possibly better deal.

The Volvo part number is 8603907.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

Kmaniac in California USA
Posts: 301
Joined: 15 January 2005
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Location: Concord, California USA
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Post by Kmaniac in California USA »

Years ago, manufacturers used all metal radiators, made usually of copper or brass, because of superior heat transfer capabilities. Also, they were soldered together. Therefore, if you got a leak or serious clog, you could disassemble them, clean them (rod out) and put them back together again. Also, in years past, it was cheaper to repair an all metal radiator than it was to replace one. The serious disadvantages were material cost and weight.

As cost and weight savings became important in these modern times, manufacturers switched to aluminum core/plastic tank radiators to reduce both initial cost and overall car weight. The big problem with this design is that they tend to spring leaks more readily than all metal radiators. Also, once you develop a leak, either in the core or in a tank, or you break off a plastic hose nipple, you CANNOT REPAIR them. All you can do is replace them.

My advice is to go with an all metal radiator. Not only will they last longer, you can repair them if they leak. My "two cents"
Chris the "K MANIAC"

1986 740 GLE

(5) 1964 Chrysler 300-K's

jlgood50
Posts: 3
Joined: 18 October 2010
Year and Model: 960 1997
Location: Ringgold, Ga

Post by jlgood50 »

I took the car in to a local radiator shop and had them replace it. The new one has the plastic tanks, but has with a lifetime warranty. The total cost, parts, labor, & all new coolant was $282.00.

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billofdurham
MVS Moderator
Posts: 6507
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model: 855, 1995
Location: Durham, England
Been thanked: 5 times

Post by billofdurham »

Thank you for the update.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

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