Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 30 Sep 2010, 14:10

So Mr. Moo.......are you saying that the 9472650 is not strictly for AWD, but will work for 99 and after FWD?

If so, I can test it in my 00 V70 (FWD). I only tested it in my 98 before because that's the one that was having the problem.

Post by **Matty Moo** » 30 Sep 2010, 15:03

I don't know that 100%. I only know that I've received STC modules back from people that I've sent AWD modules to.

It doesn't hurt to try it out on your V70 though.

Post by **RobTheModd** » 03 Oct 2010, 18:18

you can do it yourself or you can save yourself the hassle and just buy from mattymoo!

Who after installing the one he sent me, I will be recommending to anyone who is asking about them.

now my dash looks very weird/sexy/not a sight im ust to...

no lights on!!!!!! and my speedo/odom is working again.

haha now off to get an o2 sensor and fix the broken dash clips... and the car will be perfect.

Post by **Matty Moo** » 03 Oct 2010, 20:46

Thanks Rob. It is nice to see those lights go away.

altamishS70 · Post by **altamishS70** » 28 Oct 2010, 11:54

If anyone is looking for some ABS modules I am selling two of them, I bought them from a junk yard and now they will not let me return them back even though I was well within the return time. I took it back in a few days because they are not working, they were given to me with the whole ABS pump but they said since I took off the ABS module it voids the warranty!!!!! I dont get why they cant take them back!

My original one was sent to be rebuilt (bba-reman), it came back and works flawlessly now. No more orange lights!!

So if anyone is interested in the module(s) or the whole pump let me know, I paid $75 for each one and now since I am not going to get my money back I'g love to get rid of them for a fair price. Note: they do not work. I plugged them in and the lights did not go away.

I will update this post with the actual numbers and pics.

Both are for a Volvo with TRACS

1. FWD Module With TRACS
2. AWD module

Thanks.

rdawes · Post by **rdawes** » 06 Nov 2010, 11:02

Hello Mr Lee

Just wanted to thank you for your awesome post that my wife found on the web. Followed your very detailed and clear instructions...ran into the same issues getting the module apart (only 2 punture wounds in my palm!) Just reinstalled it, drove down the street and had the ABS and TRAC lights go off for the first time in 6 years! The speedo is working again also...and no check engine light...You probably saved me over $1000...Thanks again!!

hespeler volvo guy · Post by **hespeler volvo guy** » 10 Nov 2010, 10:28

Mr Lee, and all others who walked this path before me...

A week ago I bought my first volvo ever, a 96 850GLT wagon, 220 000kms. I too had the TRACS OFF/ABS light problem and surfed the net for a cure til I found this thread.

I am not really a do it yourself mechanic type, but felt emboldened by the success stories on here.

I viewed a youtube video that showed the removal process, and then tackled the job.
I used the 5/32 head to remove the screws, no problem. Got the unit out by following all of the instructions on the first page to a TEE. Even pulled all 3 fuses first. Then I faced the biggest hurdle - reapiring the module. I dont even own a soldering gun! I had heard from one of my neighbours that he used to be an airplane tech of some sort before retiring. I took the module to him to see if he could help. We went down into his workshop and it was like some mad scientist layout, I gotta say. At the time he was fixing the gyro-compass from an aircraft so i thought my module was in capable hands lol.

Anyhow he took the unit apart using a hacksaw very carefully. Initially he said all the connections looked good under the magnifying glass and he thought my problems were external to the unit. He said he would check it all later to be sure and would be done the next day. I left him the link to this page for reference.

The next day, i got the unit back. He said after removing the membrane he could see many faults on the board and re-soldered them all, good or bad, including the ones relating to the solenoids. He speculated the moving solenoids contribute to the fracturing of the solder. Then he re-coated the curcuit board with some airplane circuitry sealer and closed the box up with epoxy and some futuristic aluminized tape. First class job in my estimation, its good to have good neighbours.
I put the unit back on, fuses back in and disconnected the battery for a while to clear the codes. I also removed the wheels and checked the ABS sensor connections. When I started driving again my heart sank as the lights stayed on. But about 30 mins later after running some errands they finally went out and have stayed out now for a few days. Success!!

Thanks to everyone for their input and success stories, it gave me the confidence to undertake this repair on my own, and it cost me nothing. Special thanks to my neighbor Frank, too!

What a helpful site!

Photo-guy · Post by **Photo-guy** » 13 Nov 2010, 21:27

I tried to get the E5 socket at Auto Zone, they don't carry it. I tried Sears, they carry it but were out of stock. I actually found it at Pep Boys. They carred both a set that has E4 -E8, E10, 12, 14, 16 & 18 for $19.99. They also had the individual socket for $4.99. Hope that helps if you're in the New England area.

mgambuzza · Post by **mgambuzza** » 26 Nov 2010, 22:00

This afternoon I attempted to replace the ABS module on my wife's 1999 V70 AWD. I used the E5 Socket I won on ebay, along with the remanufactured part I bought on ebay. Utilizing posts from this site, and the video from YouTube, I felt confident enough to attempt this repair. Amazingly, it is as easy as it looks! With the right tools, right parts, this is truly an easy repair with positive results. The ABS, Check Engine light extinguished, the Cruise began working again - mission accomplished!! Thanks again to all the posters and contributors who make tasks like this easier and others more confident to tackle these projects.

l8_apex_it · Post by **l8_apex_it** » 28 Nov 2010, 16:36

Thanks Ozark Lee!!!

So here is my general take

1) If you have done any work on a car removing the ABS module is very straight forward. If you take your time you should have it out in less than 30-40 minutes. Once you have done it one time you should be able to get it out in less than 10 minutes. Very simple and straight forward (with the E5 female Torx as listed in the first post)
2) Definitely secure the ABS to a piece of wood. From my experience, scoring the existing lip with a dremel and cut off tool really serves to give a more pronounced lip to pry against. Before doing this step my pry bars, screwdrivers, etc would slip out causing me to bust my knuckles. After using the cut off tool it was easier for me to apply more pressure and eventually bust the ABS module open. With this being said it still took me less than 45 minutes.
3) I took the ABS module to work and used a stereo zoom microscope to help assist my soldering. I did not have any conformal coating on the circuit that I could tell. I used a water soluble flux pen prior to soldering. For the soldering I used an 80 watt stained glass soldering iron which has a large tip. It worked great!!! No worry about not having enough heat. It just required a few second touch and it was good to go. I added more solder to the connections. After soldering I cleaned up with some 70/30 IPA and small swabs. In the end the repair looked better than my skills should allow for.
4) Brought it home and cleaned off all pre-existing sealant with a razor blade and secured it with GE Premium Silicone Gasket & Seal (black). Placed a weight on it and let it cure overnight.
5) I was literally able to put everything back together in less than 10 minutes.

In the end I found that both power connectors had cold solder joints and pretty extreme. For the three rows of pins the first 10 or so next to the edge of the board (furthest away from the power connectors) had definite signs of cold solder joints. Not wanting to repeat this I hit all the pins with some flux, solder, and iron. All signs are good so far although it would mainly cause problems when it would warm up or after 30 minutes of driving. Even so I'm 99.9% sure that my problems are solved based on the wicked cold solder joints that I was able to address.

Thanks again!
Can someone point me to a link on how the ABS unit works or how the 8 cylinders work on the ABS? I assume they are electromechanical?

Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Re: Do it yourself ABS module repair.