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Time for a new PNP switch?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Sladethesleeper
Posts: 40
Joined: 8 December 2009
Year and Model: 1998 S70T5
Location: South of Boston

Time for a new PNP switch?

Post by Sladethesleeper »

I have no blinking arrow but I have no reverse lights. Granted, it's been like that for awhile now but since I need to get the car inspected I actually have to deal with it now. I used to be able to get them on pushing the shifter all the way forward but that no longer works (hasn't worked for awhile).

I tried realigning the switch, but unless I'm missing something I got no where. I tried moving the switch the entire range of the reverse gear and the reverse lights never came on. I know it's not a fuse since the turn signals are on the same fuse and they work just fine. I also checked the light bulbs on the off chance both were blown and they looked fine. Also, if they were out, wouldn't the light warning come on when in reverse if the pnp was working properly?

Now, Maybe I was missing some fundamental on the alignment, but I did find it challenging to keep the shifter arm and shaft from moving when tightening the shift arm shaft nut, but I was able to do it with the flat head in the slot on the shift armer.

I've also tried the ratcheting method as well, and no luck there.

There is no problem with getting into and out of gear. Occasionally there is a clunk when coming out of park or going from R to D but I always figured that was just a worn engine mount.

So, time for a new switch or is there something else to try? I don't mind getting a new switch, but don't want to replace it if it would cure the problem.
1998 S70T5 - 210k miles
1998 V70GLT -110k miles
2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 - 305k miles
1965 Mustang Convertible

I like miles...

hammertime
Posts: 68
Joined: 28 December 2008
Year and Model: '04 XC90, '07 XC70
Location: North coast
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by hammertime »

I can't say if you need a new one or not, but I thought I'd give you this info: There is a wide price range for this part across the internet parts suppliers. Search them all before ordering. I saw OEMs for as much as $170. A little more than 2 years ago I found one for my 850 made by AC Delco for $56. It works just fine. Now my S70 needs one and days of searching turned up nothing that cheap. Apparently AC Delco discontinued it. Best price I found was for a ScanTech made switch from Groton. Came in the mail just the other day. Now if we could just get a break from 5 degree Farenheit weather, I'd put it in.
'04 XC90
'07 XC70
Zamboni Model 545 (my work vehicle)
Prev. '68 142, '96 850 GLT Sportswagon, '98 V70 AWD, '98 S70 T5, '00 V70 XC
first car ever owned: '74 BMW 2002tii

Sladethesleeper
Posts: 40
Joined: 8 December 2009
Year and Model: 1998 S70T5
Location: South of Boston

Post by Sladethesleeper »

Yeah, I hear you about the weather. I did an inner tie rod, air pump, and check valve this weekend. None to warm. Luckily I have a very warm and thick pair of coveralls back from my Marine Inspection days. I was going to pull it into my garage, but one bay is my general workshop and the other bay has my 65 mustang. The mustang had a dead battery and I didn't have time to charge it.

I'm just trying to make sure I'm not missing something else prior to dropping another $160 (or $85 for scantech).

One of these days I'll get sick of my love affair with these volvos.
1998 S70T5 - 210k miles
1998 V70GLT -110k miles
2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 - 305k miles
1965 Mustang Convertible

I like miles...

phat78ta
Posts: 281
Joined: 21 January 2010
Year and Model: 94 850 turbo wagon
Location: ohio

Post by phat78ta »

Id stay away from the scantec part. I've heard some bad experiences on here about those.
There is a thread on here about rebuilding your switch. Its easy, and you know you have a good part. I did it and it solved my issues. Plus, if you mark the bolts, you don't have to mess with re aligning the switch.
93 850 GLT sedan 156K
94 850 Turbo 189K

cambiecbc
Posts: 33
Joined: 17 December 2010
Year and Model: 850GLT
Location: BC,Canada

Post by cambiecbc »

I also rebuilt the PNP switch and It works very good till now. Search the links and carefully clean all parts.
It took me 15 mins to renew copper pieces and springs. try before buy a new one.
Good luck!

rommel0915
Posts: 123
Joined: 2 April 2010
Year and Model: 1995 Yellow 850 T5R
Location: Arizona

Post by rommel0915 »

I also rebuilt mine and works great. Just follow the write up and you should be fine.
1995 Volvo 850 T5R (Yellow)
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo

Sladethesleeper
Posts: 40
Joined: 8 December 2009
Year and Model: 1998 S70T5
Location: South of Boston

Post by Sladethesleeper »

I saw the write up about rebuilding the switch.

My question, were guys having the same issue with reverse lights? I guess I don't really lose anything from trying it and I still have the car mostly torn down to that point so it won't be too hard to do.
1998 S70T5 - 210k miles
1998 V70GLT -110k miles
2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 - 305k miles
1965 Mustang Convertible

I like miles...

cambiecbc
Posts: 33
Joined: 17 December 2010
Year and Model: 850GLT
Location: BC,Canada

Post by cambiecbc »

My reverse light was not on. The car couldn't be normal at D and drove at 2nd or L when first start every morning for 15 mins..
That's the reason to rebuild the switch.

rommel0915
Posts: 123
Joined: 2 April 2010
Year and Model: 1995 Yellow 850 T5R
Location: Arizona

Post by rommel0915 »

I agree! No reverse lights = PNP switch rebuild.
1995 Volvo 850 T5R (Yellow)
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo

danton
Posts: 8
Joined: 19 October 2010
Year and Model: 850 96
Location: mt arlington, nj

Post by danton »

prior to taking switch out may I suggest you gain access to the electrical connector the switch connects to and separate it to access the pins and determine whether pins 5 and 9 on the connector are shorted when the transmission is in reverse. I believe these are the reverse switching part of the switch. Just a thought and if someone knows better I defer to their knowledge.

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