Bevel Gear Overhaul Guidance Needed

[76Capri]

Noob here, but I've read what I can on this subject.

I am the original owner of a 2005 Volvo S60 T5 AWD. It has 65k on it. In the past 10k or so I noticed the bevel gear housing was wet. Well, that was when it must have started leaking. Haven't been under the car in 10K. last mechanic to change the oil didn't say a thing. Then again they also broke the skid plate and didn't tell me.

Some careful measuring found I was 7oz low. Thing is the input and output shafts are not leaking. So I guess its only leaking from the housing surfaces themselves?

At 65k is it worth pulling the unit for a reseal? Do I deal with the slow leak and top off?

If I do a reseal can I just reseal the housing with some anaerobic sealer and be done with it?

From my research if I am going to pull it I should replace the shaft seals, use anaerobic sealer on the housing, drill out for a drain and replace some input spline shaft as these seem to fail and cause the bevel gears to fail.

Advice welcome here. I understand what is involved, but not sure the best course of action. I'll be doing all the work myself. Just seems silly to pay over a grand for a dealer to reseal a housing and out it back in. In the next 5k I plan to do alot of work. The plan is to bring her back to new and get another 50-60K trouble free miles.

[bobsnow100]

If the seals are not leaking and you think it is just the casing halves , I think I would clean the housing with some brake cleaner to get all oil residue off and then just seal the housing joint (on the outside ) with a good sealant,maybe make sure the bolts are tight too. Then check it in a week or 2 and just keep an eye on it. 65,000 miles and 7 oz loss is not like it is pouring out of the joint, plus it could of been a little low to begin with.
I have a 2001 xc70 that I actually took out the bevel gear and repalce it with a used one and that one also failed after a while so I just turned my car into a 2 wheel drive instead.

[jimmy57]

The bevel gear is not hard to work on.
The repair for oil leak at mating faces is to take it apart, clean faces thoroughly and use something around 200 grit sandpaper and rough up the faces. Use a file on whichever half is easier and go all way the inside and bevel the edge on the inside.
Use the Permatex auto transmission grade RTV/Silicone sealer and put a 1/8 inch bead of sealer all the way around the face and bolt it together. Use brake cleaner spray just before application of sealer to assure a clean sealing face on both halves.
The bevel edge allows for the silicone to make a formed in place O ring of sorts and improves the seal effectiveness. It is a relatively new method used on many things for improved seal when RTV sealant is used.
The bevel gear case is stressed and distorts a bit and that breaks the anaerobic seal so Volvo changed the sealant used and introduced the bevel method to make it tolerate the distortion.
Synthetic 75/w90 gear lube is best for the gear when you re-install.

[DGM]

Check the bleeder pipe condition. It may be clogged. There is a small filter/cap on top. See the last picture in the second link. Too much pressure stress joint and seals. It is a good idea to renew with synthetic oil (.65 L / do not overfill). You can siphon it through the filling hole. Keep it under evaluation and check level periodically (at motor oil change). Some vaporization is normal. You may save a resealing job.

The following may help;

http://xc70.com/forums/showthread.php?s ... 59&t=14373

http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to ... eakage.pdf

http://www.v70xc.com/resources/how-to/p ... cement.pdf