1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?

[renns]

I didn't push down the fitting and that might explain why I was unable to remove it. It doesn't matter since I unplugged from the top of the fittings.

You were saying the hoses were clamped with hose clamps to the fittings? I wonder if that's from a previous repair, as mine appear to be crimped together, and have not obvious way of disassembling the fitting from the hose other than cutting them apart.

[Xilikon]

I didn't push down the fitting and that might explain why I was unable to remove it. It doesn't matter since I unplugged from the top of the fittings.

You were saying the hoses were clamped with hose clamps to the fittings? I wonder if that's from a previous repair, as mine appear to be crimped together, and have not obvious way of disassembling the fitting from the hose other than cutting them apart.

Yes, the previous owner did go to a indy to replace the fuel pump and the job is really botched. Guess he didn't want to pay a lot for the job since if there is no cutout for the pump so they must have dropped the tank to replace it. From what I see, the lines were cut and they put new fittings and used worm clamps to attach them, which seems to be my saving grace in the end.

This is what it looks before I cleaned the mess (notice the fuel puddle) :

[OliG]

Hello,

I too have a 850 AWD, my fuel pump died on me and I'm gonna replace it following this method. I already gained access to the pump assembly on the tank with a hole in the floor, but now I'm puzzled as how I should unplug all this... I know than I need to disconnect both fuel hoses and that they are quick connects, but what about the 2 electrical connectors? should I unplug them directly on the fuel pump assembly or is there a way to reach the black plastic connector? If yes, how can I access this connector?

Thanks !

[Xilikon]

You cannot unplug from the pump itself. It's connected in another place (in mine, it was just below the hatch floor close to the rear seat, passenger side) but dunno exactly where on your 850 AWD.

[jimmy57]

850 AWD is exactly the same.

I have replaced 3 tank pumps on Gen 1 XC70's lately and I do a partial drop of tank without lowering suspension.
You remove the RH trailing arm with its forward bracket, disconnect driveshaft from VC, take VC together with its housing off the rear diff (mark the flange so it can be put back where found), remove access cover and undo the connectors, and then take off straps and let RH side of tank down. Oh, take off the exhaust pipe from catalyst to the muffler pipe over LH wheel driveshaft.

No need to cut hole in floor, wire routing is easy, and tank is down far enough for sending unit to go in and out with no trouble.
The VC flange has 6 8mm inhex bolts and the housing is held to diff with four 14mm head bolts.

The hardest part of the whole job is getting the fittings to unlatch on the sender. I used a tool meant to depress the collar on those fittings and bent it to work down in the hole but it still was a pain.

[Bulltaco]

I found this information to be very helpful. I'm including photos of my experience which will hopefully help you if you decide to replace your own pump.

Remove the seat and pull back the carpet and insulation pad.

Pull back the carpet and padding

Mark the location where you plan to cut the access panel. (look under the car and note the location on the fuel lines and electrical wires.

Mark the location of where you plan to cut.

Before cutting, remove the 12mm fuel tank strap bolt. This will allow the tank to drop down 2 inches and allow more clearance between the fuel line and floor board.

Remove 12mm bolt to allow tank to drop down. I used a scissor jack, however it is not needed.

Note the added clearance with the tank strap removed. I used an old license plate and wedged it between the fuel lines and floor board before cutting.

Even with the small added clearance the lines are only 1/2 -3/4 of an inch from the floor board. Be careful when cutting.

I used a 1/8 drill bit to create a pilot hole and hand cut only 3 sides of the floor board using a mini hacksaw blade. Took longer, however I frequently checked to see where I was cutting using caution around the fuel lines.

Metal blade

I pulled the panel open and used duct tape on the sharp edges before preforming surgery.

Pump access panel now open leaving the top portion connected.

I had to cut the electrical wires at the pump and marked the white fuel sending unit wires to ensure proper reconnection.
The fuel lines were a pain to get off the pump unit. It is tricky and requires knowledge of how to remove a quick connector type fitting. Take your time and don't force it.

Pump out and ready for dis-assembly

I will post additional photos of the pump overhaul shortly.
Thanks, G-Quirin

[Bulltaco]

Here's some additional photos of the fuel pump unit dis-assembly once out of the vehicle. Please note that care should be taken when releasing the three tab fasteners on the fuel pump housing. it is very easy to crack and break the plastic housing. I found out the hard way. However I was able to use a 1/4" course tread screw and carefully drilling a 1/16th pilot hole through both plastic pieces of the housing to re-attache and secure it.

Separating the plastic housing using a small flat blade screwdriver.

I had to use three screwdrivers at same time to release the tabs. You may need a helping hand.

Once open, I removed the green connector clip to release the black electrical connector.

Removing pump electrical connector.

Next, I removed the tapered cone fitting directly attached on the outlet of the pump.

Take note of the o-ring and the plastic split ring under the o-ring seal.

Seal and split ring retainer

Although it is hard to see in the photo, take note of the small rubber grommet which firmly holds the pump in the correct position. I would like to point out that this grommet is not included with the new pump from Highflow.

Grommet

I ordered my pump from HighFlow and was disappointed with the priority shipping that took 6 days. I would request a tracking number and ask them when they plan on shipping. I found out they don't ship out daily. Had I known, I would have looked into other vendors.

I didn't take photos of the new pump. I will point out that the replacement pump I received, required some modification. The next photos are of the old pump and what I had to do to make the new pump work.
1. Take note of the small green bypass tube. The new pump had the small bypass however it was clocked 180 degrees from the original. When I spoke with Highflow they said to remove it if I encounter this problem.

Bypass tube removed to allow filter sock to fit in the required position.

2. I attempted to assemble the unit and could not lock the 3 fastener tabs. I then noticed that the main pick-up tube on the new pump was 1/4 " longer than the original. The photo is a demonstration of what I had to do to the new pump cutting off 1/4" to make the unit go back together.

Trimming the pump to match original pump dimensions. Make sure you clean out all the plastic shavings.

In the end, I used both of the original filter socks and the beveled seal that the bottom of the pump. This did require some know-how and patience. This is definitely something that requires attention to detail. I hope my information and photos help.

Items not used from the kit of new parts from HighFlow.

Thanks,
Greg Quirin

[kempy]

Here are the picture files. Please email me [email protected] if anyone has any questions. It worked great! A few small lessons along the way but overall much better than dropping the rear end.

IMG_7977.jpg

IMG_7976.jpg

IMG_7939.jpg

IMG_7938.jpg

IMG_7937.jpg

SniperCat. as email sent

Your information on the fuel pump and how to get it out was a lot of help. I just had to cut the other side to fix the fuel sender. I got four fuel pumps from a Volvo shop that they replaced for not working like mine. I did some work trying to find the problem and it is not the pump the pump works on all of the units I have tried so far it has been the wire block at the transition from the wire going into the pump housing and being jointed in the white plastic piece the water get under the rubber washer and corrodes the joint inside. I cut the wires outside the pump and removed the plastic pieces put new wires thru the holes with a short rubber hose that fit tight to the wall of the holes both pump and sender. Using fuel resistant silicon on the wire and pulled it back and forth to fill the tubes and put it on both sides of the tube and metal part. Then I let it dry for 10 hours and put 4 minute epoxy for multi-metals, all over the wires and the bottom were the wire go in but just up to the two metal fuel lines making room for the connector of the fuel lines to go on then leaving it sit on the same angle the pump sits in the tank with the wire at the bottom ( if Volvo had reverse the wires and put them at the top and the fuel lines at the bottom this would not be a problem) gave the epoxy 1hour to be well dried an than painted the inside of the cup with rubberized rocker guard with a brush let dry for one hour and did it again. Put it back in the new wires I put two dual weather pack connectors on and if I need to pull it back out I don’t have to pull the wires out under the tank. This is working for now about two years since I put it in.
Problem two the sender on the other side of the tank went and the gas gauge stop working problem solved cut hole in floor like other side and cut wires remove sender put new wiring on and connector, epoxy and paint parts reassemble like other side fuel lines a little hard to get out of the way but was easier after undoing the gas tank strap. Gas gauge works just fine now. Caution the fuel line closes to divers side is very close to the floor so don’t cut very deep just enough to cut thru the metal you could remove the plastic cover and fuel tank strap first to see how close it is and maybe slide something up to stop you from cutting the fuel line.
Note the fuel pump that is in the Volvo (Walbro) they don’t fail just the wire dose I have seen cars with over 400,000 mile (650,000 km for us Canadians) and the pump still working fine its full pressure. Most guys that race put in Walbro pump because they are so reliable.
Thank for the help on cutting out the floor it did save a lot of time and the sender side also.

Gizmo

[notfadeaway]

ahem .....this looks like a sending unit ....it came out of the drivers side however I am not sure I am sure however that I need fucking new one so if someone new the part # or what it actually was even

[notfadeaway]

so it appears to be the left fuel pump

http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-VOLVO- ... 3f146f32cf