S60 - Door Handle- Really? Replace the whole panel? Topic is solved

ppitts · Post by **ppitts** » 19 May 2009, 15:32

I have a 2001 S60 that needs a new interior drivers side door handle. The actuator keep jumping out of the groove in the handle. I have taken the panel off and re-set it several times, but if you open it the wrong way- it pops right back out. Called to check on replacment handle mechanism and was told that I will have to replace the whole door panel- $450.00. Seems crazy- just wondering if I'm being jerked around.

Thanks!

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 19 May 2009, 15:49

Unfortunately, I think they are correct. Here is what VADIS shows:

You might try http://www.vandsautodismantlers.com or http://www.erievovo.com to see if they have a good used handle they can sell you.

Lukas718 · Post by **Lukas718** » 21 May 2009, 08:15

I had the same problem with my s60
I thought I will have to replace the whole panel too but after while I found out that door release line pops out only because the door handle looks uneven. If you gain access to your door handle you will see that it is hold with bolt and that bolt has tendency to come out from its holes so at the end only one bolt side is in and the other one is out. That creates uneven pressure on the door handle when you pulling and release line pops out.

So to solve that problem you have to strip your door panel to gain access to door handle and check that silver bolt that holds it. Once I did that problem went way but in the past I did take down my door 10s of times. Also to strengthen that release line I added thin metal plate on the top of the mount/clip (that's where you mount your release line into door panel)

Hope that helps

seventy1 · Post by **seventy1** » 10 Apr 2011, 08:12

Wanted to update this old thread with a fix I made to my door handle. The locking tabs on the back of the indoor release handle housing were fatigued and weren't gripping the latch cable end tightly. So, I made a simple aluminum "C" clip to hold the lock tabs engaged and epoxied it over the tabs. I also bent about 1 mm of the corners down so they bit into the plastic. So far, so good. Try this if you find the same problem.

2002V70 · Post by **2002V70** » 10 Apr 2011, 12:13

Looks great. I made my repair with some .032" stainless wire. Drilled 2 holes on the bottom plastic part and looped it to keep the cable in place. No problems for about a year now and my fix is a little less permanent in case you need to remove the door panel completely from the car. Yours looks a little less "hillbilly" than my repair.

imranz · Post by **imranz** » 23 Oct 2011, 19:24

what did you use to drill the holes? I just want to be sure so that I don't break the thing. thanks.

canfie1d · Post by **canfie1d** » 23 Apr 2013, 15:44

This happened to me yesterday and I wanted to add to the possible solutions to this problem. I 1st tried the steel wire solution but didn't like the result. My fix requires Loctite two part plastic glue and a small angled piece of plastic. Finding the right piece of plastic might be the hardest part. I cut the angled pastic down to .875" and glued it to the outside of the broken clip as pictured. The bond is secure and permanent but if I ever have to take my door panel completely off, I am able to remove the door latch with minimal damage.

: image.jpg (219.86 KiB) Viewed 15129 times

Post by **oragex** » 17 May 2015, 11:56

If the clip is not strong enough, the rear drivers side door part can be fitted in place

Post by **vtl** » 17 May 2015, 18:12

You guys underestimate mighty power of duct tape and super glue pair!

Post by **chrism** » 18 May 2015, 15:54

Been there - twice! The first time I went to the P-n-P and bought a complete door panel, brought it home, removed those ornery clips, then carefully pried the handle assembly loose from the inside of the panel. Then I did the same with the good door panel, removing the broken part. Then I epoxy'd the new handle assembly to my door panel. It worked for maybe 6-8 months then broke again. So this time I did the stainless wire fix. The photos show two tiny holes drilled on each side of the part with the wire fed through and twist braided. I probably flattened each of the wire loops down against the inside of the part with a tiny screwdriver so that there wouldn't be any interference when pulling on the handle. Unfortunately I don't have photos of after the cable was latched in, probably because I didn't have a free hand. Anyway, I'm guessing that once the cable was in place I must have just brought both wires up over the top and twisted them down snug. I took these pix about a year ago when I did the fix and the photos have lasted much longer than my memory.