90 240DL Fails to start

bgerhartjr · Post by **bgerhartjr** » 01 Jul 2011, 09:29

my 240 stalled last night while slowing and now will not start, it turns over but does not try to "fire". There is spark, but could not verify fuel delivery. Is there a pump relay ? Two pumps ? Does the tank pump require dropping the tank ? Any help would be much appreciated. Also what are the pressure and flow ratings that the fuel system requires ...It is fuel injection system

Post by **billofdurham** » 01 Jul 2011, 12:40

There is a pump fuel injection relay which is shown on the attached. There is also a fuel injection fuse in the engine compartment again shown on the attached. This is a blade type fuse (25 amp) which often suffers from corrosion. A bad contact here will stop the injection system.

You do have two pumps, one in-tank and the main. The in-tank pump can be accessed through an inspection hole in the floor of the luggage area.

Your car is also fitted with an On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) unit in the engine compartment. Using this you can find out if any fault codes have been stored. Instructions for its use are pinned at the top of the forum.

240 relays.pdf: (1.18 MiB) Downloaded 157 times

Bill.

bgerhartjr · Post by **bgerhartjr** » 01 Jul 2011, 13:28

Thanks so much for the quick reply ! What about pressures and flow rates ? Is it true that an in-operable pre-pump will not allow the car to run? I know that most fuel pumps are designed to pump(push) fuel not to "lift"(pull) fuel so that would make sense to me.

Post by **billofdurham** » 01 Jul 2011, 15:30

Whoops, missed that. Fuel pressure should be 42psi but I'm not sure about the flow rate as I have never checked that.

The in-tank pump is a priming pump for the main pump. The main pump can keep the car running without the in-tank pump but, obviously, it works overtime and will wear out quickly. Usually when the in-tank pump stops the car will run reasonably well whilst there is more than 1/4 of a tank of fuel. Once the level drops too far the main pump can't cope although it is still working. Another symptom of a dead in-tank pump is engine cut out during a turn.

Pull the fuel relay and connect a jumper between terminals 30 and 87/2 of the connector. Switch on the ignition and you should hear the pumps run.

: untitled.jpg (11.92 KiB) Viewed 1123 times

Bill.

bgerhartjr · Post by **bgerhartjr** » 12 Jul 2011, 19:36

Thanks for the fuel info. Unfortunately after doing some further investigation, the camshaft does not turn when the engine cranks. it does turn by manually, but not with the starter. Is this possibly a crank shaft key ? I have only removed the top timing belt cover and camshaft cover. Ideas ? The timing belt is tight on the tensioner

bgerhartjr · Post by **bgerhartjr** » 13 Jul 2011, 20:16

ok so I found the service manual, removed the crank pulley, removed the lower timing cover and found that my belt has shelled about 20 teeth. I guess I know why it won't turn the valve train. Interference or not interference, That is the question.

bgerhartjr · Post by **bgerhartjr** » 15 Jul 2011, 08:52

Good news, the valves are good, and it runs great after changing the belt!!

bgerhartjr · Post by **bgerhartjr** » 03 Dec 2011, 08:59

ok Had this problem in July, now again in November. Is there any specific reason what would cause the crankshaft to shred the teeth ? This time instead of slowing it was running at 50mph. and just puffed and died.

Post by **billofdurham** » 03 Dec 2011, 12:05

Did you replace the tensioner?

Bill.

bgerhartjr · Post by **bgerhartjr** » 04 Dec 2011, 15:48

no I didn't. I am having trouble getting timing correct at this point. I will order one and replace it before going forward if you think that may be an issue, last time the belt was obviously worn,cracked and dry rotted, the teeth literally fell off, this time the teeth were shredded only on the crank shaft gear area. Hopefully I will have more patience to get the alignment of the marks set after waiting for delivery of the tensioner.