Should I Stay or Should I Go?

elmo_allen · Post by **elmo_allen** » 13 Jan 2012, 22:49

This is a very tough decision for me to make financially and somewhat emotionally, but I really would like everyon's opinion if I should just trade my car in for another Volvo...

Here are the codes that I have on the car currently. I guess my question would be: Is there something on the car that is causing all of these errors, and / or could they all be fixed by replacing a fuse?

ABS: No fault found.
AUM-41FF: Amplifier, sub - antenna Signal Missing; DTC (What does that mean?) is found not active.
CCM-003: Fan motor passenger compartment temperature sensor Faulty signal; DTC is found not active.
CEM-1A5D: Communication with the ETM control module Signal missing; DTC is found not active.
CEM-6A03: Door locked left rear signal too low. DTC is found not active.
DDM-0022: Power window hall sensor 1or 2 faulty signal. DTC is found not active.
DDM-003F: Control, door mirror signal too high; DTC is found not active.
DIM: No Fault Found
ECM-1100: Outside Temperature sensor - signal too low; DTC is found active.
ECM-2910: Front heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), bank 2 heating - signal missing; DTC is found active.
ECM-2A0A: Rear heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), bank 1-Signal missing;DTC is found not active.
ECM-2A2A: Rear heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), bank 1, heating - signal missing. DTC is found active.
ECM-430D: Leak diagnostic, minor leak- DTC is found not active.
ECM-5000: A/C pressure sensor - signal missing; DTC is found not active.
ECM-91A7: Throttle position (TP) - faulty control; DTC is found not active.
ECM-91F0: Throttle position (TP) - faulty current; DTC is found not active.
ETM: No Fault Found (I think this is a bit odd, so I think the car maybe confused on this one. LOL)
PDM: No Fault Found
PSM: No Fault Found
REM: No Fault Found
SRS: No Fault Found
SWM: No Fault Found
TCM: No Fault Found
UEM-0004: Siren Communication Fault; DTC is found not active.

Any help with this would be great. Even if it was put into lamen's terms for me. It seems pretty easy to understand, but if I had a little bit more info on these it would help a great deal!

Thanks in advance!

Post by **E Showell** » 14 Jan 2012, 07:06

I'm guessing the "DTC" stands for "Diagnostic Trouble Code."

Post by **fazool** » 14 Jan 2012, 08:06

Need more info. car model, year, condition, etc

you have a major communication problem in the car

elmo_allen · Post by **elmo_allen** » 14 Jan 2012, 16:53

E Showell wrote:I'm guessing the "DTC" stands for "Diagnostic Trouble Code."

That makes sense. LOL I should have thought of that.

fazool wrote:Need more info. car model, year, condition, etc you have a major communication problem in the car

That is what I was afraid of...

Sorry I forgot to put that information in my original post.

Year: 1999
Make: Volvo
Model: S80
Engine: 2.9 In-line 6 Non-Turbo

Current condition until my current issues:

The engine was fine (it burns a little oil but what 13 year old doesn't). I do need front shocks (One is loose), a CV boot, and a slightly bent rim, tires are fine, brakes are fine, and I have a damaged finder from my front passenger wheel falling off. (Long story... the short is that I bought this car for $5000 in June of 2008, was not told that I needed a ball joint, so the ball joint failed as I was turning into my driveway and the wheel went into the wheel well and finder causing minor damage to the finder.This was in July of 2008. Needless to say I was pissed, but we fixed everything except for the finder.)

Things I have replaced:

2009:

CEM Replaced (LOL That was after I looked at the new Camaro. It was all blacked out with the SS and RS packages and it had killer exhaust (pun intended LOL) and ground effects. If I was a car I would have died at the site of that car, it was so awesome looking.

)
ABS Control Module (Replaced at the same time as the CEM I was glad to see that I could have it rebuilt it than buying a new one.

)
1 Ball Joint on the passenger side
1 set shocks
1 set of sway bar links
1 set of inner and outer ti-rods
1 set of wheel barrings
Engine gaskets (I replaced most of them, the one I remember the most was the oil cap gasket.)

2010:

2 Rack and Pinions
1 Ball Joint
1 Oil Filter

2011: All of these have been replaced during my current car issues.

Oil Pressure sensor
2 ball joints (driver's side)
1 Engine Air Filter

I am probably missing some things but, this car senses when I have extra money to spend and drains it so fast that I can barely have time to blink.

Let me know if you need any more information.

elmo_allen · Post by **elmo_allen** » 14 Jan 2012, 16:55

Oh I almost forgot...

The throttle and transmission will go into limp home mode for no apparent reason. I thought a software update would fix this but I just flushed money down the drain on that one.

Post by **precopster** » 14 Jan 2012, 17:08

When computers play up the first suspects are alternator (can be charging fine but not providing clean power to the electrical system) and cabling. Many S80 alternators have caused diabolical electrical faults due to the high number of computers in the S80.

Remove and check each battery power cable for corrosion at mounting points ( transmission earth, alternator mount and where the + cables meet at the large fuse box) Check your battery grounds where they mounts for corrosion. If these all check out replace the alternator regardless of charging voltage. It's not until you place a car on a scope that you see whether there is clean DC power supplied.

With all the reported faults does the corresponding item not function properly (example fan motor and door mirror)

elmo_allen · Post by **elmo_allen** » 14 Jan 2012, 17:25

I never thought that it could be the alternator... Do you know a price range on those? Is there any tests that AutoZone can do on it to see if it is faulty?

Well I did not realized that the fan was acting up, because I guess I was used to hearing it mess up. The window is defiantly messing up. I was worried that I could not get it back up. This was last Saturday when it was getting pretty cold. I had it down to talk to a friend.

Thanks for the great advice!

elmo_allen · Post by **elmo_allen** » 14 Jan 2012, 17:52

The passenger mirror does not fully work. It gets to a certain point and then it pops. It has done this ever since I bought the car.

Post by **precopster** » 14 Jan 2012, 21:12

You need to check all power cables first. Otherwise you may be throwing your money away, unless as I mentioned you get someone like an auto electrician to measure the cleanliness of the wave forms that the alternator is producing with a scope. I don't think that a parts store/basic repair outlet has this type of equipment.

The alternator produces the current/voltage and the cables deliver it.

The trouble of course, with S80s is that there are separate computers for almost all functions of the car. That's why good clean reliable power to them is so crucial.

FCP Groton has a range of rebuilt genuine alternators.

elmo_allen · Post by **elmo_allen** » 14 Jan 2012, 21:47

I am going to check the cables on Monday when I am off work and have some longer periods of day light.

I really cannot do anything until the first of next month. However, I can still check everything out.

. I did have the battery tested at O'Riley and AutoZone. I am not trusting what the people at AutoZone said because they did not even have the proper connection or something because their battery tester said 0.80 volts. So I went to O'Rileys and they tested it and they had the proper connection. Anyway it read 12.57 volts. He did attempted to read the alternator and it read 30 amps. I have a friend with a scope, so I will take it to them on Monday. I feel kinda like an idiot because I am in IT and I should have known that the cables / power supply can cause issues with multipule components.

I just never put 2 and 2 together, and I was believing what the dealership was saying because of the codes my ECM was spouting out.