1996 850 P0755

kluhrm123 · Post by **kluhrm123** » 30 Mar 2012, 17:17

I have two daughters with Volvo's. I have had many over the years. We have four total in the family right now. Two 850s (one 1994 the other a 96). The others are 960's (1995). Our 1996 is a non turbo model and is a great car. It recently (a few weeks back) started the flashing arrow on the dash. After getting onto the website I decided to put a new PNP into it. It wasnt too challenging to do. Got it replaced. I drove it several times and the flashing arrow on the dash went away but I got the CEL. Code turned out to be a P0755. I drove the car some and it seems fine except that the shifts are lower than what the manual shows. It is shifting at about 14 or 15 MPH. Drove it on the highway and the shfting was good and not slipping. But it was a little more of a firm shift. (I drive a 960 every day). My daughter has been driving the 850 for about a year so not sure if anything has changed with the trans except what I described. At about 70 MPH it was about 2900 to 2950 RPMs. I was in the process of buying some front end parts from FCP anyway- so I purchased the 2 shift solenoids. Now after all of this the car has been idle while my parts come in. During this time I am now wondering if I should replace the shift solenoids or not. Wondering whether there is really a problem with the two solenoids. I do plan on pulling out the front end items and also switch the ATF fluid. But when I am done I guess I could very well still end up with the code coming back. Any ideas/opinions?

Thanks Mike

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 30 Mar 2012, 20:04

The P0755, as you know, is a shift solenoid B - Open circuit code.

Is there any chance that a pin got bent on the transmission electrical connector when the PNP switch was changed?

Since the PNP was the last place you were that is where I would start.

...Lee

kluhrm123 · Post by **kluhrm123** » 31 Mar 2012, 05:12

One of the Pins did get slightly bent when breaking the pieces apart. I carefully moved it back in line. And It looked straight and I put it back together. I did wonder when doing it whether that might affect it or not. Will bending it (even if it is back lined up) cause the code to come up? Not really sure what is the next step to take. Thanks Mike

kluhrm123 · Post by **kluhrm123** » 01 Apr 2012, 17:22

I verified that the Ohm Readings are okay for one and the pther one was about 28. I had already purchased the two switches and am in the middle of taking it down. I have all of the 9 torx bolts so I still need two remove two more. After going the initial route of jacking the tranny up to gain access I have decided to drop the front frame since the last two are almost impossible with one absolutely impossible- given the glue/lock tite that was used. If I drop the structural/frame that supports the tranny and engne can I only drop the drivers side??? (Leave pansengers side in place?)

Or am I left having to take all of the bolts (left and right) to drop th entire frame (front)? What about the steering- do I have any serious issues to consider- to do/not do? Just curious since I am now at a cross roads and do not want to mess anything up.

(As previously mentioned I waqs going to do the lower control arms- upper struts- fron brakes- so I have it torn down and short the two remaining bolts I am not far from reaching the two solenoid switched). I did read all of the posts and some have provided excellent insight to get me to where I am.

Thank you for your help- so much.

Mike

kluhrm123 · Post by **kluhrm123** » 02 Apr 2012, 19:57

Well I am now at the point where I had to go to work. The 850 is sitting in the driveway. Will work on it again some time this week. I have only two remaining torx bolts to remove to access the solenoids. I will contemplate my next step. I will probably jack the trans up as far as I can to see if I can access the one elusive one. That one is at about left rear bottom (at about 7 or 8 oclcok). The one in top left is probably going to have to be drilled out with an extractor. I have tried the hammer and chisel method with no success. although it worked on about 4 others.

Have been getting ready for making the decision of dropping the subframe which I will do if necessary.

Mike

Post by **jblackburn** » 02 Apr 2012, 20:15

I tried jacking it up, but I still couldn't get to it. I had to resort to lowering the subframe. May be different with your tools or whatnot, but I couldn't keep running out to get other tools.

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 02 Apr 2012, 21:29

kluhrm123 wrote:I will probably jack the trans up as far as I can to see if I can access the one elusive one. That one is at about left rear bottom (at about 7 or 8 oclcok).

That one did kick my ass...the second time. First time I got it out using 1/4" deep sock with T40 Torx in it and an extension while laying on a creeper. But, then I put it back together without the Volvo Pink Goo, BIG MISTAKE! So the second time I pulled the pan I stripped the head. There was no getting to that one to drill it out, so had to hammer and chisel it...took hours upon hours! Damn near shooting blind up there.

kluhrm123 wrote:The one in top left is probably going to have to be drilled out with an extractor. I have tried the hammer and chisel method with no success. although it worked on about 4 others.

I had to drill out 4 or 5 the first time I pulled the pan. Got a close quarter right angle drill and extractor's from HF.

Good Luck!

kluhrm123 · Post by **kluhrm123** » 04 Apr 2012, 14:57

I went to SEARS and bought a few more tools. Now I have the last two out. The long punches with long chisels got them out. I asked this question on another post however it is the same issue. Do you recall how mcuh the volvo pink goo cost. Also, the SL solenoid seems to look different than what is in my car. This is the one all the way at the bottom. I am curios as to whether VOLVO changed those out for some reason. Thanks for the help. I did manage to get it out without dropping it- but it was challenging. I ended up buying new bolts also since I managed to mess up most. But was lucky and did not have to drill anything.

Mike

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 04 Apr 2012, 16:08

The goo was $25-$30 at the dealer. It's plenty enough to do a few jobs with.

Since I was going in there, I replaced S1, S2 & SL. I don't recall there being any physical dimension discrepancies between what was in their and what I sourced from FCP (which were Blue Box). I do think there was a difference in color. The original solenoids were each a different color on harness, green, army green/grey & black. The replacement S1 & S2 were the same color, which makes sense as they were the same part number. Perhaps originally S1 & S2 carried different part numbers.

Also the price for them has went up since I purchased in '10.

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kluhrm123 · Post by **kluhrm123** » 04 Apr 2012, 17:38

Thanks for that info. I was going to use the Max (or Ultra) Grey Permatex. But after reading more on this and having my fun occasion (not wanting to have it leak). I will pay the extra price for the pink stuff. I expect to have the car done this weekend as this is the next chance to get under the car. Since doing much of the frontend items I am really looking forward to driving it for awhile.

My really only current concern is that there is absolutely a difference in what is there (now) and the new ones. The one on top right is identical to the new ones (S1 and S2). The one adjacent to the left is different to it. Then the SL at bottom is different to the new one I got from FCP. But their part numbers line up with what is from the dealer. That i guess is my current concern. I will post back when done. Mike