would water pump work without timing belt HoopLa...

[jblackburn]

Yes, auxiliary drive belt first; then the timing belt. I seem to recall the auxiliary belt tensioner must be totally removed from the car to access the timing belt.

Correct on the timing belt. Removing the tensioner should give you enough slack to slip the belt off the cam sprockets.

[xHeart]

So far so good. Serpentine belt is off. I have progressed to turning the crank to align the cam markers. Cam is aligned, but having difficulty seeing the notch on the gear to align with protruded ear down there. Taking a break, giving my eyes some rest.

Coolant is fully drained from the radiator petcock, and behind the engine block.

Did not find an example of how and where to apply RTV on water pump seal, thinking ahead.

Many thanks.

[rspi]

Man, you really have me worried. What instructions are you using to do your timing belt job? Are you also replacing the tensioner roller and idler roller? Did you find the cam sprocket marks? Did you lock the cams (I never do, just wondering if you did).

On the water pump seal, after you get the block all cleaned off, put a little sealant on the water pump and stick the seal on it. Just put a little on the gasket, enough to coat the gasket, not enough to drip off. Then put a little sealant on the seal then push it on the block and start a couple of bolts so the seal doesn't slide off. After all the bolts are started, snug all of them down, then torque them down in the recommended pattern.

[xHeart]

Man, you really have me worried. What instructions are you using to do your timing belt job? Are you also replacing the tensioner roller and idler roller? Did you find the cam sprocket marks? Did you lock the cams (I never do, just wondering if you did).

Cam is aligned and locked. The oil pump ear and the notch behind the crank are positioned as well. Here is a photo...

Cam aligned and locked

MVS_0216.jpg (375.74 KiB) Viewed 723 times

I have removed the tensioner, but not the idler pulley. Belt is off of all except the crank, and set to the side. Here is a photo...

all is not off, belt is moved to the side..

MVS_0223.jpg (450.57 KiB) Viewed 723 times

All seven bolts are off, but the water pump would not come loose...

water pump is stuck, it would not move, even after the 7 bolts are removed

MVS_0225.jpg (381.14 KiB) Viewed 723 times

Should I remove the idler, tensioner roller, and the belt completely off?

[rspi]

Yes take the belt off. You may have to tap the water pump pulley with a wrench or something to break it loose. You can also use a pry bar between it and the tensioner pulley.

Are you going to replace the tensioner and idler pullies? If so, be extra careful not to strip the tensioner roller bracket bolt. Use a good quality T40 bit. I stripped 2 of them and had to replace the roller with the bracket on. The bad part about that is that it's impossible to tighten the bolt on the roller with the bracket still on the motor. I put some sealant on the threads threads to stop the nut from backing off. Then I put a notch in the last thread as an extra safe precaution. Now I check it every 5k. Real pain in the butt if you strip that bolt, don't do it. To me it's the hardest part of the job.

Which instructions are you using?

[rspi]

That tensioner roller actually looks good in the picture. I dont see any grease on it. You can spin it with your fingers and if it's smooth, quite, and tight, I would not change it. That's Just me, other's would change it anyway. I just did a belt with a head gasket job and left the tensioner roller on. Matter of fact, I did that to the last 2 timing belt jobs.

[xHeart]

Would it be harder to replace water pump if I leave the two rollers there? These appear and rotate smoothly, no play. Also level of difficulty with T45.

The courage came from all of you coach. I am using best practices from several of MVS posts, there are gaps, even in Dr. Lee's, which is the best source thus far.

I took me an hour to recover from this discovery, a distraction after removing the spark plug cover.

it appears and smells like engine oil...

MVS_0219.jpg (539.72 KiB) Viewed 718 times

I am going back this morning to take the belt off from the bottom of crank. And loosen the water pump. Do i remove the pulley and roller?

Thank you for the starter note on RTV. Could it be applied like a thin coat using a paint knife?

[jblackburn]

Nah. You can leave the tensioner pulley and idler roller.

[jblackburn]

Spark plug cover is likely a bad oil cap seal or clogged PCV system forcing oil out through the seal. Once you get it running, do the test I mentioned earlier to see if the PCV is clogged.

[xHeart]

Spark plug cover is likely a bad oil cap seal or clogged PCV system forcing oil out through the seal. Once you get it running, do the test I mentioned earlier to see if the PCV is clogged.

comforting.