850 turbo 96: emissions failed: hi HC & CO, + O2 error codes

[hanseich]

Hi everyone,

I just came back from my second emissions test. The car failed again, with values that are even worse this time.

Here are the values:
(1. value is limit, 2. value: first emissions test, 3. value: test today)

Curb Idle Test
HC ppm: 200, 62, 107 PASS
CO%: 1.00, 0.27, 0.46 PASS
NO ppm: N/A
RPM: - , 856, 860
Dilution: 15.6 (both times)

ASM2525 Test
HC ppm: 58, 85, 109 FAIL (much worse this time than before)
CO%: 0.32, 0.66, 0,69 FAIL (also worse than before)
NO ppm: 435, 49, 72 PASS, but worse than before
RPM: 1639 (same)
Dilution: 15.8 (same)

The work I did on this car:
changed spark plugs
cleaned and polished rotor and distributor cap
changed both O2 sensors (OEM Bosch SH25 used)
cleared error codes (P0133 + P0137). (they have not come back yet on the 10 minute drive from the testing garage home)
Also, I changed the rear cam seal, but that's got nothing to do with aything else I would assume.

I also attempted to reset and program ECU . unplugged battery, pushed brake for 10 seconds, then went for the drive suggested in the second post of this forum thread:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 6234#56234
I'm not sure if it worked, I have a feeling it was unsuccessful. How can I tell when the ECU was successfully reset?

What I can tell so far is that the car idles higher (can be seen on the test as well) and it idles rougher as well. Also, when the technician pulled the car on the dyno for the higher RPM test, that car started of smoking really noticeable, which stopped after a while though. I've never noticed that before (I've only owned the car for three weeks and it's not on the road yet, as I need to pass the e-test first). Also, no smoke out of the oil dipstick hole, I'll do the PCV at some point, but I feel its not necessary yet.

Final words: I hope someone can help me figure out what I need to do at this point. I'm trying to save money by doing the work myself, and this car is not a hobby. I hope that the solution is not really deep rooted, but I feel, since changing the parts made such a stark difference, this might just be a reset issue or maybe something else small.

[precopster]

Have a look at Neways Roil treatment seriously this time. I'm almost certain your car will pass once treated.

[hanseich]

precopster, I'd love to use the product and I would really hope that this would fix my problem - kind of like a miracle potion. Unfortunately I can't buy the product in Canada (it was also discontinued in the USA) and the car is not officially on the road, so even resetting my ECU (which is what I think I need to do) with the driving routine is not legal for me. Roil requires extensive driving as far as I can tell.

[precopster]

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=51774

Next best is to find out how you can get this process done; Injectors being a number one priority. Next best thing to Roil.

[kcodyjr]

Not sure about Canada, but here, you are allowed to drive the car on the rejection sticker for a certain number of days. Also, given a genuinely good story, not to mention suitable receipts and parts rolling around on the floor, the cops generally let it go even if you're past the time limit.

One way or another, you will need to do some driving. In fact, that might be your problem. My uncle told me long ago, the dumbest thing you can do is start a cold car and bring it straight in for inspection.

Here's what I suggest:

1. Obtain a bottle of Techron. Nothing else is safe in these engines according to my dealer-trained indy.

2. Drive it to the gas station. Pour in the Techron and then buy some of the highest available octane fuel. If your tank is below halfway, fill it to half. If it's higher already, just get a gallon or two, to mix the additive around in the tank.

3. Reset the adaptives, right there at the gas station.

4. Do the training drive procedure immediately. This will take some planning to have the right roads in front of you at the right moments. Search the forum for instructions.

5. Go for a pleasure drive. Make it a long one; at least an hour. Try to vary the conditions; freeway, open country road, more freeway, et cetera. Ideally, your trip should contain a very long, steep hill, which you'll go up with your toes sticking right out through the grille.

6. Bring it directly in for emissions testing.


EDIT: I do mean that if it's below 32F, I expect your feet to have frostbite when you get to the top of the hill. Ease the pedal to the floor as you're approaching the uphill grade, and then keep it at WOT until you're approaching the summit. Then, take it easy for a mile or two. If you saw a bunch of black smoke in your rear view mirror, mission accomplished.

[vjaneczko]

OK, so you replaced the O2 sensors with new ones. But you replaced old spark plugs with... old spark plugs? Maybe I misread that.

Have you gone through a Stage 0?
Have the codes come back?
Any other codes pop up?
When it was on the dyno, where was the smoke coming from?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

At least here in Illinois, we do have to have a warmed-up car, say maybe a 10 or 15 minute drive, before we can get a test, but nothing longer.

[precopster]

OK, so you replaced the O2 sensors with new ones. But you replaced old spark plugs with... old spark plugs? Maybe I misread that.

To my understanding the O2s are used. THAT has me worried. In addition Seafoam straight into the PCV canister may reduce some noxious fumes.

[855 moneypit]

Rule #1 - Engine should be nice and warm when you get the test station. No cold tests. Run that beast on the and through some city streets.

The 02 sensors your purchased could actually be bad ( slow ) and still not throw a code. My front 02 has been ' slow ' for four years now. Are you running premium fuel? You mentioned the car is running rougher than before. Did you make sure the plug wires were secure on both the plugs and distributor? Cleaning / polishing the cap and rotor may not help if the contacts are worn. What are your plugs gapped to?

When my car is up for inspection I check plugs, wires and cap/rotor for wear and cracks. If plugs have lots of mileage I'll change them. Same with cap/rotor if I notice wear or cracks.

310k miles and still wheezing along.

Best of luck on your next attempt!

[misha]

...What I can tell so far[/b] is that the car idles higher (can be seen on the test as well) and it idles rougher as well...

I would say that you have a vacuum leak somewhere or bad fuel pressure regulator.

Check the vacuum tree for missing caps.Check vacuum elbow at left side of intake manifold in between alternator & power steering area.Check vacuum line to fpr at fuel rail(if you have one).If you have just a damper,your fpr is at the back,in the fuel filter area.Check vacuum line from flame trap housing(that line is coming from the left side of intake manifold).

Ecu reset is done like this:
Remove neg battery cable for 10-15min.Pump the brake to remove leftover power.Re-connect battery cable.Wait about a minute for a digital display in the instrument cluster to clear up.Start the car and follow this procedure:

computer relearn procedures.pdf

(33.82 KiB) Downloaded 226 times

Good Luck!

[misha]

To my understanding the O2s are used. THAT has me worried.

He said that he ordered both o2 sensors from FCP.So,they will be new ones.
I hope that he ordered OEM Bosch sensors.