heater hoses

[filipe martinho]

hi,i´m from portugal and i need tech tips how to do the replacement of the heater hoses in to the firewall for my 2000 v70

[Ozark Lee]

Welcome to MVS Filipe,

The hoses have quick connect clips on the firewall side. To release them press the tabs inward and then press the pipe toward the firewall. Keeping the tabs depressed then pull the hoses outward and they should come free. You can sometimes here them click as they release while you are pushing them.

The one other end goes to the coolant distribution pipe that runs along the back of the engine block and the other goes to a barb on the block itself. They are just held in place with hose clamps. I change them one at a time, starting with the lower hose on the firewall, so that I don't get confused as to which hose goes where.

You will need to drain some coolant before you start removing the hoses. I avoid using the drain plug on the radiator since it will often break on the radiator side and the only way to fix that problem is to replace the radiator. I just remove the lower radiator hose when I need to drain coolant.

Lastly, I would highly recommend that you replace the O rings, the spacer(s), and the quick connects on the firewall side of the hoses if your new hoses didn't come with them.

...Lee

[filipe martinho]

thanks(obrigado) for the tip is very usefull i need to be sure how its donne i hope my english be good i´m little rusty

Welcome to MVS Filipe,

The hoses have quick connect clips on the firewall side. To release them press the tabs inward, toward the firewall. Keeping the tabs depressed pull the hoses outward and they should come free. You can sometimes here them click as they release while you are pushing them.

The one other end goes to the coolant distribution pipe that runs along the back of the engine block and the other goes to a barb on the block itself. They are just held in place with hose clamps. I change them one at a time, starting with the lower hose on the firewall, so that I don't get confused as to which hose goes where.

You will need to drain some coolant before you start removing the hoses. I avoid using the drain plug on the radiator since it will often break on the radiator side and the only way to fix that problem is to replace the radiator. I just remove the lower radiator hose when I need to drain coolant.

Lastly, I would highly recommend that you replace the O rings, the spacer(s), and the quick connects on the firewall side of the hoses if your new hoses didn't come with them.

...Lee

[precopster]

I'm about to do the same repair on my 2000 V70 after breaking the coupling by trying to use an extension spanner to reach the O2 sensor.

The seal kit made by URO for the firewall side has had mixed results and I can't remember reading a post where the repair has been successful. I tried this kit myself after totally cleaning out all the old spacers and clips from the coupling and it leaked everywhere. Both here and Volvospeed seem to report the same problem with the URO seal kit.

That's why if you want to do it right the first time order a new OEM coupling which comes with all new cips/seals for both sides or you'll likely be bypassing the heater on the day of the repair and be cold for another week while wating for a coupling.

[jreed]

Thanks! That's a great tip. I'm definitely going with the OEM part when I do this job. One question I've asked myself when I inspect the heater hoses snaking around to the back of the engine: how hard is it to get access to the hose clamps and hoses to do the replacement? What needs to be moved or removed to make enough space? Are there any special tools that come in handy during the job? Thanks!

[precopster]

Removal of the air cleaner and the warm air tube is enough. If you still have OEM clamps they're usually a 7mm socket size or just use a flatblade. I prefer use of a good 1/4 inch drive ratchet as it gives good feel for hose clamps.

[erikv11]

Oops - on turbo cars like jreed's 97 LPT, there is no warm air hose and in addition to the air cleaner, several turbo-related plumbing parts are in the way of accessing those heater hoses.

On turbo models I've only done this job during an engine swap so I'm not sure what needs to come apart to access the heater hose connections to the engine. It is fine to just start peeling away, it shouldn't be too bad. If you have to unhook small vacuum lines (likely) then label them with tape as you go. Pay attention to their condition, now would be a good time to replace old, rubber vac lines that may have pinhole or larger leaks. You will indeed want to take out the air cleaner. The BCS with its several vacuum lines mounts on the air cleaner so you can either disconnect the vacuum lines to it or unscrew the BCS before you take out the air cleaner. You will likely need to remove the long hose to the turbo that holds the ptc and a few other small things.

[Pauloil]

do you need to do the core also? if so, it helps to disconnect the cruise control link and move gas pedal over. if you are doing the coupling might as well throw new heater core in 2000 car.

[vjaneczko]

Just a general comment; last week I had to replace the hose between the engine and the firewall. When the old one was removed, the platic tabs broke due to their age. It didn't matter because I was actually planning on doing this: http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850- ... nes-46740/

While this does take a little longer due to cutting the heater core lines, it will save you a large amount of $$ - $25-ish compared to $140-ish.

@jreed, you don't need much as far as special tools, mostly a screwdriver to undo the hose clamps. Might want to inspect them first and pickup some replacements. My hose that burst was just below and behind the distributor, so it was frustrating to access. I had to remove the radiator hose above it to get at the connector on the engine - which required pulling the airbox. I actually had a friend do the repair for me so I'm not sure about the second hose, but it might help to get under the car 'cause I think it's on the back-side of the engine.

[cn90]

1+,

Bypass the coupler.