My 1998 S70 with 150K had the TB and SB replaced at 65K (in 2004).
At 150K, these are my observations:
- The TB (Timing Belt) with 85K on it is still OK, has hairline cracks, but time to replace.
- The TB factory Idler and Tensioner Pulleys have slight play and were “free-wheeling”, so time to replace
- The WP has no leak, but the bearing has a very very slight play. Technically speaking, you can keep the WP for another 30K. From reading Ozark Lee’s and few others experience with leaking WP at 150K or so, and since I have no time to redo this in 30K, I put in a new Aisin WP.
- Front Cam Seals have slight leak, no big leak, but since I am there, I may as well replace the Cam seals. It was quite an experience but no worry, I will show you the easy way. Read on…
- Since you will be removing the Cam Sprocket, make sure you read forum on the issue of Cam Sprocket Timing Advance vs Retard adjustment. Do not assume that your sprockets were correct (never know the P.O. adjusted the setting). However, if your cam sprockets are stock and have never been adjusted before, you can mark them for ease of re-installation. I adjusted my Exhaust to +3 degrees (Advanced) and Intake to -1 degrees (Retarded).
- The SB (Serpentine Belt) with 85K on it is still OK, has hairline cracks, but time to replace. I keep the old SB in the trunk as spare just in case.
- The SB factory Idler and Tensioner Pulleys have slight play and were “free-wheeling”, the grease dried out, and were somewhat noisy during operation, so time to replace them.
- The Alternator Front Pulley spins with little resistance, so the Front Bearing is probably somewhat worn, but I will do an Alternator overhaul later, maybe at 180K or so. For now, the Alternator is OK.
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PARTS For 1998 S70 GLT
- TB Kit from Volvo (TB, Idler Pulley, Tensioner, Plastic Collar)….PN 30758260…$110.
This is cheaper than buying individual parts!
- WP (Aisin) from eeuroparts.com….…$80.
Optional: new WP bolts; also new thermostat is a good idea at this mileage.
- Front Cam Seals x2…Volvo PN 6842272…$16…you need 2.
(Alternate is SKF 17806…Napa auto parts $15.)
- Serpentine Belt: Conti 6PK1743 (Autohausaz.com)…$21
- Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley (PN 9146139…$39) and Tensioner Pulley (PN 272136…$29).
Volvo OEM.
TOOLS
- Metric Wrenches/Sockets as usual. Make sure you have the 30-mm socket & 1/2" breaker bar for the Crank Bolt.
- L-shaped Torx Wrench Set ($12 at Advance Auto Parts, Autozone). This is a must if you replace the Tensioner Pulley!
- For SB tensioner, I use the home plumbing plug (the 1” type) with square end being 3/4", then file opposing ends flat for the adjustable wrench.
- Two-foot section of Iron Pipe ($8 at Home Depot hardware store), read on.
- Propane Torch to help remove the SB Tensioner Pulley from the Mounting Bracket.
For Cam Seal Job:
* Some sheet metal screws for removal of old seal
* Paint Can Openers x2 (free at Home Depot hardware store) are a perfect fit. You can use pick tool too, but the paint can opener is the winner!
* 1.5-inch PVC Coupler (90 cents at Home Depot). For those who do plumbing, this coupler is used to join 2 PVC pipes with I.D. = 1.5” together for home drainage plumbing. I brought the new Cam Seal to Home Depot and this PVC Coupler O.D. matches the O.D. of the Cam Seal, so it is a perfect tool to press in the new Cam Seal!
* Steel “Mend Plate” with holes about 8-mm to press in new cam seal, about $2-$3 at local hardware store.
* Coffee stirrer or some short ruler to measure depth of cam seal install.
- C-Clamp large enough (6”) to compress the Hydraulic Tensioner. I use a wood-working clamp that I have laying around in my garage.
- Wheel bearing grease
- Loctite: virtually very nuts/bolts in this job require Loctite.
- Utility knife blade/fine sand paper to remove old WP gasket.
- White-out paint (Liquid Paper), Sharpie, bamboo skewer (to mark crank).
- A make-up mirror ($5 at Walmart) is a must!
- Antifreeze/Distilled water
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PROCEDURE (ABBREVIATED VERSION)
* TB Tensioner: 25 Nm
* Tensioner Pulley: 40 Nm (Torx 45)
* Idler Pulley: 25 Nm
* Cam Sprocket bolts: 20 Nm
* WP bolts: 20 Nm
- This has been discussed in the other DIYs, so I won’t go into detail. Instead, I will only highlight the important tricks of the trade:
1. Get a box to put all the odds/ends/ screws removed. Also label which screw is which to avoid confusion. Some bolts are very similar!
2. With RF wheel removed, place jack stand under subframe. Remove the plastic nut on wheel well, and fold the wheel liner (vise-grip) to expose the 30-mm crank nut.
- Directly in front of the CRANK sprocket is a metal plate held by two 10-mm bolts. Remove this plate.
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3. Remove engine cosmetic spark plug cover (Torx #30).
4. Lift the coolant reservoir upward, d/c the connector to level sensor, then place coolant reservoir on top of engine.
5. Undo the clip at the back of engine holding the metal fuel lines together (Torx screw), this way you can remove the top TB cover.
6. Undo the 12-mm bolt holding the UPPER TB Cover. Note the slots at the bottom of the cover for re-installation.
NOTE: The LOWER TB Cover (held by 2 bolts) can only be removed together with the WP.
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7. With my “Special SB Tensioner Tool” + adjustable wrench, pull toward the Front to release tension.
Then remove SB. NOTE: make a diagram of the SB routing for ease of install.
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8. Turn the 30-mm crank (easier with spark plugs out but you don’t have to remove spark plugs. It is stiffer with spark plugs in place, good work out if you have not done any exercise this week LOL) to line up the CRANK mark with mark on Oil Pump Housing.
9. Make sure the CAM Sprockets line up with the notches on the UPPER TB Cover. Bend down and look straight at them (as if you look from the coolant reservoir viewpoint) to get a good view. Now mark with Sharpie/white-out for ease of identification. Also mark “E” and “I”.
10. Tip: you will find that if you periodically check the Cam to be sure it has moved, getting the UPPER TB Cover in and out is a pain (lifting up fuel lines etc.). Here is a tip: for Exhaust Cam, mark with white-out at 12 o’clock position (looking straight down on the back side of the Cam Sprocket) and the engine as shown. For the Intake Cam, mark at the very front as shown. This way at a glance, you know where the Cam Sprockets are. Of course at completion of the job, you need to verify the Cam Sprockets using the UPPER TB Cover as a guide. But this little trick (markings at the back of the Cam Sprockets) will save you a lot of time.
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11. Note that there are 2 types of Crank markings: either single notch at the valley vs 2 notches on the teeth (this is what I have). See photo (courtesy of “precopster”).
12. Now get a good flash light and shine at the CRANK sprocket. Initially I used Sharpie but later I found white-out paint to be better. Just apply a dab of white-out at the tip of the bamboo BBQ skewer and mark the valley. Again, verify that you apply the white paint on the correct valley. The 2 notches are very fine and difficult to see w/o flash light. Good lighting is critical here!
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13. Note:
- Yellow is Oil Pump marking,
- Red is the 2 notches,
- White-out paint is on the valley:
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14. Cut old TB to remove. Don’t even try to snake it out, it is hard to snake it out!
NOTE: If you are not replacing the Front Cam Seals, skip these steps #15-#22.
15. Since I am replacing the Front Cam Seals:
- Mark Cam Sprocket w.r.t. Cam Shaft relationship. Again, read my tips above, do not assume this is factory setting as the P.O. might have adjusted it before. Undo the Cam Sprocket bolts with the TB in place.
- However, if the TB is already out, no worry, hold the sprocket with left hand while Right hand undoing the bolts.
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16. Again, read the links in REFERENCE section below on Cam Advance vs Retard. The bottom line is:
- Advance: bolt all the way to the front of the oval slot.
- Retard: bolt all the way to the rear of the oval slot.
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WARNING: Whatever you do, do not mar the sealing surfaces of the cam and the bore!!! You will regret big time.
a. The sheet metal screw method: punch a small hole at dead center of the seal, screw in the sheet metal screw making sure it goes in straight, then pull the seal out. NOTE: You will need to use some force to pull the seal. Now don’t laugh but I pulled so hard I fell backward on the garage floor LOL.
b. The smarter way is to use paint can opener + vise-grips. Sorry no Volvo picture, this is from a Mazda MPV but you get the idea: hook the paint can opener under the seal’s inner lip, then use the vise-grips as shown to pry it out.
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18. Clean the sealing surface with a Q-tips. Apply oil or grease on the new seal. Just look at the seal to see how it goes in. You need oil/grease on the OUTER edge and INNER Lip of the seal. Now use the 1.5” PVC Coupler (note that is has ridged on one end, so use the smooth end of the coupler) and gently/evenly hammer it is. However, there is an easier way, read on.
19. The Intake Seal was no event. I learned the Exhaust Cam Seal the hard way! If anyone tells you the Exhaust Cam Seal is easy, it is not! But if you follow the tricks below, it will be a breeze.
I installed the Exhaust Cam Seal wrong (the back end was bungled up for not using the mirror and for not spinning the seal during install) and there was oil leak on the driveway for a week! It took a long time to diagnose the oil leak by looking via the Cam Sprocket holes with “dentist mirror”!
It was Saturday, Volvo dealer wanted $35 for the seal: no way! I went to local NAPA and picked up Cam Seal made by SKF 17806 for $15: Perfect fit! FIY, you can look up any SKF parts here:
http://www.showmetheparts.com/skf/
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20. Now the next photo is crucial, note the seal has to travel some 12 mm to be fully seated. The Cam Seal itself is about 8 mm thick. So once done, the seal should be about 4 mm from the very edge. Again, the space is very tight here for Exhaust Cam Seal, so make a short ruler (I use a wooden coffee stirrer with 4-mm and 5-mm markings) to ensure proper install. A mirror is a must here!
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21. After much frustration installing the Exhaust cam Seal, I found the trick! “a” is OK, but “b” is better:
a. Again, make sure the seal is well oiled, spin it as you insert it until it stops at the edge to prevent bungling up the inner lip. You can tap it in with a small hammer, but you will find out that there is simply no room (b/c of the suspension tower).
- Now use Left hand to squeeze the bottom, while the Channel-Lock Pliers squeezing the top of the seal. NOTE: that I used the old seal as cushion between the new seal and Channel-Lock Pliers.
- At this stage, it does not matter what I squeeze, it will not go in further. If you have the Volvo Special Tool for Cam Seal, then you are in good shape, but no worry, read on to the ghetto technique.
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b. I just happen to have a steel mend plate with holes being 8-mm, perfect because the sprocket bolt is 7-mm. Use the steel mend plate + PVC coupler as shown and the seal goes in smoothly! Make sure you change the bolt holes to even it out (3 holes). It will be stiff going in, but do NOT force too much as you may damage the seal’s metal cup. Periodically check the seal depth, if it is 4 mm from the edge, you are good.
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ALTERNATE TECHNIQUE: Use the Cam Sprocket + Coupler to press the new seal in. If you do this:
- You need longer M7 bolts (the factory bolt is not longer enough once you fit the PVC coupler behind the Cam Sprocket), you can get longer M7 bolts at hardware store.
- Or…Reduce the PVC Coupler thickness by cutting the PVC coupler with a hand saw so it is roughly half of the original thickness. You will have to measure how much to cut. Whatever you do, the new seal needs to travel 12-mm or so.
22. Once done, verify with mirror and short ruler (my coffee stirrer) to be sure the Cam Seal is seated evenly and properly. You have one shot at this whole seal business!
- You can re-install the Cam Sprockets now or later. Again, read the Advance vs Retard issue.
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23. Now, move on the rest of TB job. The Tensioner Torx #45 bolt is tricky. Some people stripped it and became a nightmare to extract it. Use the L-shaped Torx Key + Iron Pipe as shown: Left hand applying pressure, while Right Hand undoing it. TRICK: Tug it clockwise a bit to be sure the Torx Key “bites” in the slot, then CCW to remove the bolt. The Idler Pulley is straightforward (2 bolts).
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24. WP is easy: look at new WP for bolt locations. There are seven (7) 10-mm bolts.
- Note that the LOWER TB Cover (held by 2 bolts) can only be removed together with the WP.
- After 15 years, the WP was bonded to the engine block, but no worry.
- Place a catch pan under the WP, place the iron pipe as shown, give it a few moderate whacks with hammer, it will come out. Leave the WP ajar (no need to remove it yet) for a few minutes for coolant to drain.
- My coolant is only 1 year old, so I re-used it by filtering it with coffee filter paper, it was slow but I got it done.
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26. Verify new WP mating surfaces and bearing is good. Then install it.
- Make sure the LOWER TB Cover is installed together with the WP!
- Apply grease on both sides of WP gasket (old trick taught to me by a guru), this way the gasket sticks to the mating surface and the grease should seal any microscopic holes: I have been using this trick for 25 years.
- Install the WP, the new bolts have Loctite on them. If re-using the old bolts, apply Loctite.
27. When installing new Tensioner Pulley:
- Do not confuse Tensioner Pulley's mounting hole with the HT Upper hole! I made this mistake and had to move it to proper location!
- Use a rubber band (bungee cord) to hold it out of the way so the HT can be installed easily. Otherwise it is annoying to have the Tensioner Pulley slapping into the HT area.
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27. Install the HT (2 bolts + Loctite). Do NOT pull the pin on the HT yet.
- If you re-use the HT, then compress it very very slowly, it should take about 5-7 minutes to fully compress it.
28. Now slide the new TB under the Crank Pulley ---> Crank Sprocket, it is tricky but you can do it.
- Verify the Cam Markings lining up properly.
- Now tug the TB tight so it hugs around the Crank Sprocket teeth.
- Loop the TB in this sequence:
Crank Sprocket ---> Idler Pulley ---> Intake Cam ---> Exhaust Cam ---> WP ---> Tensioner Pulley last.
- The new TB is tight so you may want to tug on it a bit.
- The trick to this is to tug the TB with Left hand while the Right hand looping the TB around various components.
- Now verify all markings (Crank, Cams x2).
- Place the Upper TB Cover back on to verify the Cam markings again.
- Once you are happy, release the HT pin. It will take about 1 minute for the pin to fully extend to apply tension on the TB, so wait a bit before turning the crank 30-mm nut.
29. Turn the 30-mm nut on the crank Clockwise 2 revolutions (which is 1 revolution for the Cam).
If you feel any stiff resistance, stop and check. Do not force it.
30. Once you bring the Crank/cam markings back in order, check one more time then install the White Plastic Collar on top of the HT. It will click in, there is only one way to insert it.
This White Plastic Collar is the last line of defense should the HT fails (unusual but can happen).
Now the next step is crucial, read on…
31. Go to church, pray like crazy, go home.
- Then put the key in ignition.
- Do not start the engine yet, say a quick prayer again, then fire it up.
- Smile if the engine runs perfect, cry really loud if you just blow up the engine.
- Just kidding, don’t worry, if you follow the DIY to the “T”, you will be fine. You won’t blow up the engine.
32. Shut the engine and mentally go through all the nuts/bolts, making sure that:
- All nuts and bolts have Loctite.
- Torqued to spec (hey, I did it all by “feel”).
- No nuts/bolts left behind.
33. A quick note on the SB Tensioner Pulley: I almost stripped the Torx bolt, so:
- Use the correct Torx #40 key.
- Use the propane torch to heat the back side of the bracket (where the Torx bolt goes in), 30 sec. of heat is enough to loosen the factory Loctite.
That is all boys and girls! Happy New Year!
REFERENCES
Ozark Lee’s 140K Maintenance:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=19831
1998 Timing Belt Photos:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=52960
Volvospeed Timing Belt DIY:
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... hange.html
Cam Sprocket Timing Advance vs Retard:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53377
