Hi all -
I'm trying to troubleshoot various noises on my 2004 XC90 2.5T that I'm suspecting is coming from the engine shifting too much within its engine mounts from torque. I don't have a way to get underneath to check the bottom mounts yet, but I figured I'd check the top mount. Visually, I can't find anything wrong with it without taking it apart.
I was surprised at how much movement the engine made when rev-ing, but I don't really have a concept of what's too much, so I took the video below. Is this too much play?
Thanks!
How much play is too much on top engine mount for a 2.5T?
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precopster
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Hell yeah. That's a lot of movement. You could possibly have two or more broken mounts there.
There is a small torque control mount going to the gearbox from the front crossmember (bottom photo)
Also a large round hydraulic mount very close to it. There are 2 of these more or less opposite each other. The other one is on the exhaust side
Also at the timing end of the engine you have a unique and rather large mount (first pic)
There is a small torque control mount going to the gearbox from the front crossmember (bottom photo)
Also a large round hydraulic mount very close to it. There are 2 of these more or less opposite each other. The other one is on the exhaust side
Also at the timing end of the engine you have a unique and rather large mount (first pic)
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- uploadfromtaptalk1363473233459.jpg (51.74 KiB) Viewed 2472 times
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- uploadfromtaptalk1363473270772.jpg (75.82 KiB) Viewed 2472 times
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Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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joelq
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- Year and Model: 2004 XC90 2.5T ~135K
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Thanks, for the quick reply. Yes, I suspect I have multiple mounts that are bad, and I'm trying to figure out which ones I can do myself. From my research, the top and front ones look very doable. I'm concerned about the rear one as that sounds like a bear to replace.
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precopster
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You will need to have someone rev the engine while you poke around under it to see what's loose. That front hydraulic mount would be the first one to view. The nuts are 15mm from memory. If you remove the 2 bolts on the front torque mount at the crossmember and also those at the timing end as well as removing the crossbrace across the strut towers you can try to then jack the engine up at the sump by using a pine brace to spread the load.
The most fiddly one is the rear hydraulic mount to fit but it may be ok.
The most fiddly one is the rear hydraulic mount to fit but it may be ok.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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xHeart
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Is this the one where steering rack bolts on, near the fluid lines?precopster wrote:...
The most fiddly one is the rear hydraulic mount to fit but it may be ok.
If so, would replacing it takes lowering the subframe?
Last edited by xHeart on 18 Mar 2013, 07:42, edited 1 time in total.
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- regent
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If the hydraulic mounts have no visible leaks they would most likely be fine. It is the top engine mount, the transmission mount, and the lower front engine mount (at the belt side) that fail first usually.
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
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Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
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