1998 s70 will not run

Post by **precopster** » 14 May 2013, 08:20

If the crank stops and the piston is around 3mm from top of travel you have it right. The notches vary. Some gears have one notch and others require you to centre between two of them.

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 14 May 2013, 09:51

Mike, Eric, I hope I'm not bothering you too much, but I have another question. When I turn the crank clockwise, extension in place, until it stops, the piston is 2mm below the deck. I'm accurately measuring this. This is 3-4 teeth off the marks. When I go counter clockwise until it stops the marks line up at the cams and crank. The question I have is, should it stop in both directions ? Secondly, do I go with the piston at 2mm below and set the cams accordingly and leave the crank where it is.

Bob

Post by **precopster** » 14 May 2013, 15:33

At the moment let's concentrate on getting the crank position spot on. If you turn clockwise to the stop position and the piston is 2mm from deck height you are at the right position. I always thought it was 2mm.

I've actually had four heads off Volvo fives since 2010 counting my 20valve 850 motor to '99 V70 conversion last year and removing the head twice on a 10 valve block which shares the same block and crank as the 20 valvers.

I also have an 850 block on my workbench which is now in pieces and they all shared the common deck height reference.

When you've achieved that height this is when the cambelt comes off and you time the cams. Which marks on the engine are you using for cams? There are 2 small V cuts on the plastic cover for the cam pulleys. The cam marks should each nestle on these to achieve correct timing. Once you've done this place the timing belt back on without pulling the lockpin (you can use a small nail or drill piece) which you should have inserted into the hydraulic tensioner once it's compressed. Do 2 full turns of the crank by hand and see that once you return to that locking position (mark it with some white out) that everything lines up again. DO NOT turn the crank backwards (counter clockwise) if you go past the mark. Just do another 2 turns until you come back because unless the greanade pin is pulled the belt will skip a tooth if turned counter clockwise.

Now pull the grenade pin from the tensioner and turn another 2 full turns until you're again resting at the locking position. Make sure cams are lining up again to the notches. The guide Erik provided you should make things clearer. I printed each section to a PDF converter so I could reference it without a web connection.

I'll be offline for about 7 hrs so see how far you get. I'm certain you are going OK so far!!

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 15 May 2013, 18:00

I guess I really want to be sure I'm doing this right. So I still have a couple of questions. Do I leave the crank where it is regardless if it does not line up with the timing marks on the crank gear? The #1 piston is 2mm below the deck. Are there other places along the rotation of the motor where the extension will slide in and lock the crank? It appears to me there are. You mentioned in a previous post I should start close to the crank timing marks so that is what I did. I'm beginning to think there is something broke internally. With the extension out I cannot go clockwise. If I go counter clockwise, it locks up near the point where it locked up going clockwise. Very frustrating but I'm not giving up. I'm thinking about moving my computer out to the garage and follow Tracy's tutorial and pull the head.

Bob

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 15 May 2013, 18:51

Hi, Mike & Eric Concerning that last post of mine. I realized my mistake and corrected it. I now have the crank right between the 2 "V"'s and the cams right on the marks (the 2 V notches on the cam cover). The extension is all the way in the belt is on and I pulled the "pin". Also the # 1 is 2mm below the deck. I believe I can start putting it back together. One other thing, I did the rotations to be sure the timing marks stayed in place. Is there any other thing I should do at this point?
Bob

Post by **precopster** » 15 May 2013, 18:51

No need to pull head. At most you can separate the top half of head to release the pressure on the valves.....42 x 7mm bolts.

When piston is 2mm from top and crank locks where are the cam marks in relation to the marks?

Are they out by around 180 degrees? Remember there are 2 turns of the crank for every 1 turn of cams. It sounds as though you may be out of phase by 360 degrees when you released the cam belt which would make it difficult to place things back where they belong. There should be a position on the crank where all pistons are down by a lot more than 2mm

Post by **precopster** » 15 May 2013, 19:00

Haha we both posted on the same minute. You're looking good Bob. Just do 2 cycles by hand and be sure it lines up again (so that's 4 turns of the crank)

BTW what was the mistake?

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 16 May 2013, 18:59

Well, I can say positively the timing is right on. I put every thing back together feeling very confident. How ever, that was short lived. It started, chugged for 20-25 seconds and died. It did that a couple of times. I have replaced distributer cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, engine coolant temp sensor, bought some mass air flow cleaner and cleaned that. I used my multi meter and checked the throttle position sensor. I could not get a constant reading. The numbers were all over the place. Both open and close throttle. I will replace that before I go any farther. Also maybe the coil. When it does run for them few seconds, its like it not firing on the 1 & 2 cylinders (fouled plugs.) Is it possible a valve or two stuck down during the time it sat? I sincerely appreciate all the help.

BTW the "mistake" could come under 3 different catagories : tired, not enough light or stupidity. I did not have the intake in the proper position.

Bob

Post by **precopster** » 16 May 2013, 19:23

I do believe I told you about 15 posts ago that your TPS readings were way off.

You may want to do another comp test just to be sure there aren't any other issues. Did you ever replace the ECT?

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 17 May 2013, 06:23

I remember you telling me about the TPS. That is why I rechecked it. I wanted to be sure. And, yes I have replaced the ECT. I will be in the Chicago area this weekend and I will look for what I need down there. If I remove the top of the head, Do I have to replace all 40 bolts with new as suggested in Tracy's tutorial?
Bob