Strut / Front-End Part Replacement - When is it Neccesary?

Post by **coflynn** » 27 May 2013, 10:41

Hello,

Alright, sorry for a 'WWJD' type post but I wanted to get some input.

I've got ~125k miles (200k km) on my 2002 S60 AWD. The control arms bushings are in need of replacement, so was going to just order new OEM arms & swap them. The remaining stuff (balljoints, tie-rods, sway-bar links) have been replaced recently enough, and seems in very good shape when inspecting just now.

While doing that, is it reasonable to replace the struts + strut mount bushings? I don't have any of the signs of failure I've read about (creaking over bumps, doing 'bounce test' with bumper car just comes back up and stops). Beyond keeping me safe I don't really care too much... so am not worried about getting back to ultra-tight suspension, just reasonably safe!

It seems some people replace basically *everything* including strut bearing, stops, etc. I understand it's much easier since you are in there already, but is it overkill w/o signs of failure? Would the struts + bushings be enough if I do replace anything, rather than also going for strut bearings etc?

Thanks for your input!

-Colin

Post by **JRL** » 27 May 2013, 14:23

Any strut, on ANY car is toast by 125K no matter where you live, even in FL with their smooth roads.
If you want it to feel and drive as new, go through the entire suspension and replace as much as you can afford.

WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot · Post by **WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot** » 27 May 2013, 14:28

If you can move the top nut cover on your strut you need to replace the strut bearings and spring seats.

Post by **coflynn** » 27 May 2013, 15:02

@JRL - thanks for the input! Do you replace the strut bearings too, or would struts + spring seats be reasonable? Had seen a few notes that seemed to indicate the bearings rarely go bad.

@WTF - I cannot move the top nut/cover easily, which is why I wasn't sure about needing the replacement. Probably with a wrench I could. But the time/miles on the car suggests they should be toast!

Post by **precopster** » 28 May 2013, 02:07

I tend to agree with JRL as far as replacing everything the budget can afford. The bounce test does't always reveal weaknesses or parts about to let go.

The spring seats are a known weakness that will eventually tear through just when you don't want them to so best to do these and struts at the same time. The bearing plates are also due at the same time.

You'll be really pleased with how much of a difference it makes in the feel and stability of the car.

Post by **JRL** » 28 May 2013, 03:47

coflynn wrote:@JRL - thanks for the input! Do you replace the strut bearings too?

AT those miles... I would

Post by **xHeart** » 28 May 2013, 05:38

JRL wrote:Any strut, on ANY car is toast by 125K no matter where you live, even in FL with their smooth roads.
If you want it to feel and drive as new, go through the entire suspension and replace as much as you can afford.

Insightful.
The two sides DS and PS do not wear at the same places. The mount was torn at DS where the bearing's plate portion was bent at PS.
140k-mi, I have replaced all components to the knuckle with OE/OEM parts, Meyle HD for the control arm.
The use of strap on control arm for installing ball-joint was most helpful method.

Post by **coflynn** » 28 May 2013, 12:45

Greatly appreciate the replies! Ended up getting the bearings/struts/bushings to do all in one go, Meyle HD LCA, rubber brake lines as there is a big crack in one I noticed, plus fluids to finally do my Bevel gear + rear diff. And parking brake shoes because I just replaced my rear discs, and now I've got problems with them sticking that adjustment alone didn't fix... should have done them when I had the whole thing apart, damn it.

Post by **xHeart** » 28 May 2013, 16:59

coflynn wrote:Greatly appreciate the replies! Ended up getting the bearings/struts/bushings to do all in one go, Meyle HD LCA, rubber brake lines as there is a big crack in one I noticed, plus fluids to finally do my Bevel gear + rear diff. And parking brake shoes because I just replaced my rear discs, and now I've got problems with them sticking that adjustment alone didn't fix... should have done them when I had the whole thing apart, damn it.

Same as yours were completed on mine start of the year.
JRL says to take on replacing ALL engine mounts, I would go one more step, and replace the subframe bushings come Fall.