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Can't get axle out of bearing hub -tried EVERYTHING!

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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ThatBitch_MacGuyver
Posts: 14
Joined: 27 June 2013
Year and Model: 850 1997 wagon
Location: Milton, New Hampshire

Can't get axle out of bearing hub -tried EVERYTHING!

Post by ThatBitch_MacGuyver »

Ok. Not a Noob to MVS I just don't post often enough so I gather I got booted off the server.

Back to business. Ok, what do you do when you can get the axle to slide out of a 1997 volvo 850 wagon(drivers side). I have tried rubber mallets, drift hammer, block o'wood and a 5 pound sledge, a gear puller.....at this point I have the car buttoned up again so I can drive it to my shop guy and have him take a whack at pulling the axle free from the knuckle and wheel bearing hub.

What can one do to remove a stuck axle? I tried tapping all around the outside of the flange to no avail. It's supposed to just slide out of the bearing but it doesn't .

Please gods of MVS I've tried everything short of using an torch to free the darn thing...without ruining the axle of course.

Thank you in advance and I will follow up later with the answer that worked.

----------------------
1997 volvo 850 wagon 251,400 miles and still going strong.

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ThatBitch_MacGuyver
Posts: 14
Joined: 27 June 2013
Year and Model: 850 1997 wagon
Location: Milton, New Hampshire

Post by ThatBitch_MacGuyver »

Ps. The whole point of this is the replace the bearing and do a cv boot replace!

MrPc
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Post by MrPc »

Is the gear puller you tried three prongs or two?

When I did this a month or two ago, the axle was stuck on the driver's side as well. I tried the same things you did. The 2 prong puller I tried wouldn't stay aligned long enough to build up the needed force. A three-prong gear puller made short work of it. The one I used has a 7" spread and about a 3.5" reach. Oil the threads, it does build up a fair bit of tension.

Paul
=====================
Red Red '96 855R, 169k

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ThatBitch_MacGuyver
Posts: 14
Joined: 27 June 2013
Year and Model: 850 1997 wagon
Location: Milton, New Hampshire

Post by ThatBitch_MacGuyver »

I have the 3 prong gear puller and I cranked on it so tight I thought it was going to snap from the pressure. That didn't work either....

precopster
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Post by precopster »

There's another way.

Loosen the clamp on the inner CVs boot and with three or four sharp pulls you can pull the inner CV apart. The casing for the inner CV stays and the shaft comes out. At this point be careful that the 3 shells stay on the shaft; nursingly cradle them with a rag as you carry the shaft to the workbench.

If one or more of the shells pops off you'll have a search and rescue for around 33 needle rollers per bearing shell. I did it this way on my '99 V70 and then cleaned & repacked the casing with a small grease gun.

When you re-insert the 3 headed shaft end use a heavy hammer to re-form the 3 metal lugs that were bent from the pulling.

I just did it this way yesterday with my '01 XC axle which wouldn't budge. With later axles they don't even have the 3 metal tangs on the inner CV casing.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Maybe someone or factory put the metal adhesive or Loctite etc.
Easy solution: use a Propane torch ($12 at hardware store) and heat AROUND the axle splines.
The idea is to use heat to expand (and melt the Loctite) the bearing splinesto allow the gear puller to do the job.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

precopster
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Post by precopster »

I doubt they used Loc-Tite but anything's possible. Heat won't alter the size of the snap ring which is probably a little large. Using pullers is not wise as the snap ring may be locked to a position outside the circle of the shaft. You could break the gearbox casing.

The best way is to place trans in neutral and rotate-jerk, rotate jerk. This keeps the snap ring in the middle but you must keep pressure outward all the time so the snap ring doesn't fall down again.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

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BEJinFbk
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Post by BEJinFbk »

The last time I had a problem with this, I built a double loop pulling cable.
The double clips nearest the loops aren't crimped, so they slide and you can choke the two loops
down for a tight fit around the axle. Set them at 180 apart for an even pull. The rubber hose in
the middle makes a nice handle.

I had planned to run the pulling end through a large weight and use it like a slide hammer,
but with the right pulling point on the axle, the clip just gave up it and the axle popped right out.
Axle Puller.jpg
Axle Puller.jpg (36.84 KiB) Viewed 2192 times
5 bucks worth of parts at Home Depot. :wink:
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

MVS Mavericks recommend one of the two methods: 1) take the LCA off the subframe, or 2) remove the two strut bolts at the knuckle. It will allow the knuckle to move freely.

Here is one https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=29716

Which method is OP using?
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rspi
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Post by rspi »

I think that cv can move in and out a little, especially if the steering wheel is turned. Every time I ever pulled the control arms off, those CV's just flapped around like they had all kinds of play.

I would loosen the nut to the end of the shaft and give it a good smack with a hammer or something to free it. Not a full baseball bat swing, just a pop. Heck, maybe my method would damage the tranny, I don't know.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

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