Cam Alignment on a 960
Re: Cam Alignment on a 960
So remove the top cover- then with cover off turn the crank over and see how it turns over? If freely all is good mover forward with sealng up cover if I have obstruction with cover off it is time to remove the rest? (I have a questions about removal but will wait). Mike
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precopster
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Yes turn by hand first feeling for obstruction. If the crank stops that will be a bent valve 
If it rotates freely you could do a comprssion test without valve operation. It will still yield numbers over 120psi if OK
If it rotates freely you could do a comprssion test without valve operation. It will still yield numbers over 120psi if OK
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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precopster
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Sorry the question was? Perhaps your mind was going quicker than your fingers....
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
If I pick up a head from a junk yard which cars will work as a swap? Over here there seems to be more 96, 97 and 98 (S90) cars than the 960s. I am only trying to know what I might be up against (if I have bent valves which it sounds like there is a strong chance of that). Mike
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precopster
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The answer from memory is that all 960/V90/S90 heads are identical. There are differences in the timing systems and size of cam sprockets used. Blocks were changed only with regard to timing systems with '92 &'93 running skinny 21mm belts, '94 running a 23mm &'95 plus going to a massive 28mm belt.
Also the pre-95 cams actually produce more power with 205hp.
I'm not certain which years run EGR as this wasn't on my '92 when I owned it.
Also the pre-95 cams actually produce more power with 205hp.
I'm not certain which years run EGR as this wasn't on my '92 when I owned it.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
I have the rear CPSensor and other side; taken off all 47? bolts off and am now in a position to pop off the top half cam shaft cover. I did some tapping all around and (understanding it is aluminum) am not having much luck. I must be missing something. I would think from looking at it that prying is not the right answer. Can you give me a pointer? Thanks Mike
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precopster
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It is a VERY tough bond between the cam cover and head. A balance between shock and gentle care of the aluminium must be struck. The separation lugs are the most solid points to hit, hitting with a soft mallet didn't do it for me on any of my white-blocks. Prying on the separation lugs also proved fruitless regardless of how many combinations of levers I used.
I used a steel hammer and tried to hit using with the largest surface area I could find to avoid breaking the cover. It is a nerve racking experience. If anyone has suggestions for the OP now is the time....
I used a steel hammer and tried to hit using with the largest surface area I could find to avoid breaking the cover. It is a nerve racking experience. If anyone has suggestions for the OP now is the time....
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
Mike, any update on your engine? I have a similar situation and interest to know how you fix this problem.kluhrm123 wrote:I have the rear CPSensor and other side; taken off all 47? bolts off and am now in a position to pop off the top half cam shaft cover. I did some tapping all around and (understanding it is aluminum) am not having much luck. I must be missing something. I would think from looking at it that prying is not the right answer. Can you give me a pointer? Thanks Mike
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