1994 850 Turbo Engine Tick/Knock Between 1st and 2nd Gear

ManManOhMan · Post by **ManManOhMan** » 24 Sep 2013, 21:18

Wow, I was just driving right now and the engine was making this very loud screeching sound along with the knock. Pulled over instantly dropped in another quart of oil and the car would not start up at first, second, or third time?

Is there anyway this can be related to a timing belt issue or a component that's on one of the belt drives.

Please watch this video:

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ManManOhMan · Post by **ManManOhMan** » 24 Sep 2013, 21:35

I hope that I may have just been over paranoid with this whole oil issue and I just may have a really bad steering pump?

Does anyone have any theories or thoughts behind this?

ManManOhMan · Post by **ManManOhMan** » 24 Sep 2013, 22:55

jblackburn wrote:
abscate wrote:Can you hear the way the bearing knock changes as the engine revs/falls? As the load on the bearing changes, so does the noise. Thats the tell-tale differentiator from valvetrain noise.

Ive never done a pan drop on a Volvo so I dont know how bad it is to get to the bottom end. You could check compression and if its good, try a bottom end bearing replacement with guidance from experts.
Another way to tell is to unplug each spark plug one at a time and see if the knocking goes away when one cylinder is "unloaded".

Wear gloves so you don't zap yourself

I unplugged each spark plug one by one and the knocking didn't go away or lighten up. What do you guys think behind this?

ManManOhMan · Post by **ManManOhMan** » 25 Sep 2013, 03:24

Well, I've researched countless literature and videos regarding rod knocks and bearings, and believe it or not I feel fully capable of replacing a rod bearing hands down, but I'm worried that it may be frivolous at this point and the crank journal may be "scorned".

Either way it goes, I had to drop this oil pan and clean everything up down there to begin with. I pray and hope that this will fix everything. I really regret driving the car since it's been knocking like that.

What's your guy's take on things? I know I've been posting on here back to back with no response but I've been up all night researching how to fix this problem, the possible causes, and my options.

Looking Forward To See Some Responses,
Manmanohman

Post by **abscate** » 25 Sep 2013, 04:04

Oh crapola. You really have to park a car like this making rod noise. You are in the part of the curve where damage can mount up very quickly. Scoring the journal will turn this into a motor replacement saga.

ManManOhMan · Post by **ManManOhMan** » 25 Sep 2013, 05:14

abscate wrote:Oh crapola. You really have to park a car like this making rod noise. You are in the part of the curve where damage can mount up very quickly. Scoring the journal will turn this into a motor replacement saga.

Abscate, that's exactly what I'm going to do. I hope I haven't scorn the journal already!

Is there any advice you can give as far as replacing the bearing or being able to identify/what to do if the journal is scorned?

Also, as long as my make and model/year match up as an exact fit for the new bearing, I'm good to go right?

Either way, I'm about to go out and drop the oil pan in a few minutes. I'm literally going to jack the car up and throw it on some cylinder blocks. What a pain I'm a little skeptical about unmounting the engine at the subframe and jacking it up but O' well. It's sort of how I was before replacing the axle and pcv system. After replacing/repairing those repairs, I can go straight in, hands on with no doubts, and tackle those repairs.

Well I'm going to study the pan removal write up ( Thanks Guys!!!!) briefly before going out there.

Post by **abscate** » 25 Sep 2013, 05:27

I've never been into a white block bottom end so I got nothing to add.

No cinder blocks as jack stands though please, manifestly unsafe, as we say in the Coast Guard.

ManManOhMan · Post by **ManManOhMan** » 25 Sep 2013, 06:19

abscate wrote:I've never been into a white block bottom end so I got nothing to add.

No cinder blocks as jack stands though please, manifestly unsafe, as we say in the Coast Guard.

I will definitely take that to heath, I just really feel unsafe with using jack stands at times, no matter where I put them.

Post by **jblackburn** » 25 Sep 2013, 09:27

ManManOhMan wrote:
abscate wrote:I've never been into a white block bottom end so I got nothing to add.

No cinder blocks as jack stands though please, manifestly unsafe, as we say in the Coast Guard.
I will definitely take that to heath, I just really feel unsafe with using jack stands at times, no matter where I put them.

Stack tires under the frame as well. If it falls, it won't crush you.

That said, a good set of jack stands holds the car up fairly well.

Hopefully jimmy57 will chime in with something about the bottom end of the white blocks - most of us have ones that just keep running (and break everything else!)

ManManOhMan · Post by **ManManOhMan** » 25 Sep 2013, 14:24

Well the cooler lines are mounted on the oil pan right next to where the engine mount is. They are both obstructing each others bolts from being loosed. I mean I have tried each and every exact way and angle and it's not happening. These crazy torx bolts that are mounting the oil cooler lines to the pan are corroded and like most of these bolts that I deal with when they're like this strip. What makes it worse with these damn bolts is that I don't even have a straight shot to them which is going to cause them to strip, I felt it about to strip with one and i stop. I can show you better than I can tell you, be back with picsssssss.

1994 850 Turbo Engine Tick/Knock Between 1st and 2nd Gear

Re: 1994 850 Turbo Engine Tick/Knock Between 1st and 2nd Gea