I spend Sunday trying to stop an oil leak, unfortunately it still exists. I replaced the PCV system, front cam seals, rear cam seals, and oil cap. The rears had a small, very small leak, the fronts looked to be just fine but I replaced anyways. There is still an oil leak at the front of the motor (passenger side) and I am beginning to think it is the crank seal and/or oil pump o-ring. I looked today and found oil on top of the motor after recently washing before I performed all the work.
I think the oil on top of the motor is actually being "flung" by the timing belt, hitting the underside of the hood and falling on top of the motor. The front and upper timing cover are currently not on the vehicle and have not for quite some time in order to watch things.
Has anyone experienced this type of leak or heard of anything like this? I understand the oil cooler lines are located in the same area but they are not leaking.
1998 S70 GLT Continuous Mysterious Oil Leak
- rspi
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Scary, driving without a timing belt cover. If something pops in that area and gets jammed in the belt it can make it slip off the cam.
I have no clue about an oil leak without seeing it.
I have no clue about an oil leak without seeing it.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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scot850
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Hi,
rspi makes a very good point. We can try to help, but a picture speaks a thousand words. Whilst I don't condone running a car without the timing belt cover, as you have it removed anyway, you should be able to access the area to clean it reasonably well to find where the oil is leaking from. Having just spent a fortune having my 2000 V70 R seals replaced, and the crank seal for the 2nd time as it leaked again after the dealers first attempt, the symptoms you describe sound like you may have a cause. If the PCV has been pressurising enough to cause the rear cam seals to leak, then chances are the front crank seal would go too. Also check you are not seeing any oil deposits at the join between the transmission and the engine block as this could mean the famous rear-main seal failure. If you have avoided that you have dodged a bullet. If you remove the RH front wheel, you can also peel back the plastic inner arch cover allowing you to see the area more clearly for the front seal.
Based on the fact the dealer mechanic had a problem with my cars front seal, when you go to replace, make sure to check the crank shaft face where the seal fits to make sure there is no wear. If there is you may have to position the seal so it sits in a different spot.
If you can take a picture, post it and we can try to help more.
Neil.
rspi makes a very good point. We can try to help, but a picture speaks a thousand words. Whilst I don't condone running a car without the timing belt cover, as you have it removed anyway, you should be able to access the area to clean it reasonably well to find where the oil is leaking from. Having just spent a fortune having my 2000 V70 R seals replaced, and the crank seal for the 2nd time as it leaked again after the dealers first attempt, the symptoms you describe sound like you may have a cause. If the PCV has been pressurising enough to cause the rear cam seals to leak, then chances are the front crank seal would go too. Also check you are not seeing any oil deposits at the join between the transmission and the engine block as this could mean the famous rear-main seal failure. If you have avoided that you have dodged a bullet. If you remove the RH front wheel, you can also peel back the plastic inner arch cover allowing you to see the area more clearly for the front seal.
Based on the fact the dealer mechanic had a problem with my cars front seal, when you go to replace, make sure to check the crank shaft face where the seal fits to make sure there is no wear. If there is you may have to position the seal so it sits in a different spot.
If you can take a picture, post it and we can try to help more.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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scot850
- Posts: 15503
- Joined: 05 Apr 2010, 14:46
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If I am to make an educated guess, based on that it looks like the oil is all the way up the timing belt casing at the back of the engine (closest to the firewall in the first picture, I'm sorry to say it looks like the rear cam seal is leaking.
You will have to remove the timing belt again from the cam pulleys or if you can get enough light and one of the bendy mirrors on a stick, you may be able to see up behind the pulley to see if the oil is leaking without removing the belt first.
If anyone else has a thought on this chime in!
One other question, did you replace the water pump while it was all apart. Some folks say you should change every time you do the belt, some say you can do it every other belt. First time I did the belt had a nightmare with an aftermarket manual tensioner pulley that kept bending when tightening it.
Must have had the belt on and off 50 times, before buying an OE pulley and worked first time. Put everything back together and as soon as I started the car the water pump pulley seal failed!
I'm told the rear cam seal is difficult to get fitting correctly. Having not done this myself, hopefully jblackburn or one of the other guys with a lot more experience can give better descriptions.
Good luck,
Neil.
You will have to remove the timing belt again from the cam pulleys or if you can get enough light and one of the bendy mirrors on a stick, you may be able to see up behind the pulley to see if the oil is leaking without removing the belt first.
If anyone else has a thought on this chime in!
One other question, did you replace the water pump while it was all apart. Some folks say you should change every time you do the belt, some say you can do it every other belt. First time I did the belt had a nightmare with an aftermarket manual tensioner pulley that kept bending when tightening it.
Must have had the belt on and off 50 times, before buying an OE pulley and worked first time. Put everything back together and as soon as I started the car the water pump pulley seal failed!
I'm told the rear cam seal is difficult to get fitting correctly. Having not done this myself, hopefully jblackburn or one of the other guys with a lot more experience can give better descriptions.
Good luck,
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- rspi
- Posts: 7304
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
That is nasty.
You can usually look through the cam sprockets and see if a seal is pushed out. Easy view with everything pulled. If you can't see a seal out, I would wash it all down with brake cleaner (non-flamable) and crank it up and watch it leak.


You can usually look through the cam sprockets and see if a seal is pushed out. Easy view with everything pulled. If you can't see a seal out, I would wash it all down with brake cleaner (non-flamable) and crank it up and watch it leak.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
- rspi
- Posts: 7304
- Joined: 05 Nov 2011, 10:40
- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
- Has thanked: 34 times
- Been thanked: 72 times
-
Contact:
Contact rspi..
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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