1998 T5 - New Member Introduction and Questions

Post by **mecheng** » 04 Apr 2014, 05:29

erikv11 wrote:- I don't recognize the connector offhand, would have to look at a vehicle and follow the wire back.

- For the nipple, just go to any auto parts store, that needn't come from the dealer.

- The trans cooler is a completely separate little tube down that side of the radiator, as is the oil cooler. So fluids in the trans cooler passage will not intermix with those in the rad (coolant) passages unless there is an additional failure.

Where is the oily fluid in my coolant coming from then? I thought if either the trans or engine oil cooler fails it can mix with the rad fluid???

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Apr 2014, 10:09

I was not trying to follow all of your posts, just answer the most recent question; my bad. Here is my take on looking over the whole thread so far:

- You posted that the *passenger* side of the rad is oily, that is the oil cooler side not the trans cooler side.

- Oily outside of the rad would have nothing to do with any internal leaks, more likely it has to do with leaky hoses or leaky hose connections. Separate problem. But post up a pic that might help to diagnose. Better yet clean up all the oil, then when it first starts to leak again figure out where it is leaking from. Look closely at the oil and trans cooler lines themselves, and at the connections.

- Oily coolant can indeed be caused by either a trans cooler or oil cooler leak, I agree. I was just saying it should be either-or, not both of them leaking. I got confused about your question because I thought you switched from oil cooler to trans cooler. As far as no coolant in the oil: presumably because the oil is higher pressure than the coolant, usually the leak is only one way from the oil cooler, so you get oily coolant. I don't think the same is true for the trans cooler, those lines are much lower pressure. And coolant in the trans fluid can be very very bad for it, so be careful.

There is a slight chance the coolant is oily due to head gasket problem, I would do a compression test just to rule that out. You can also pressure test the radiator, that can help you find a leaky oil cooler or trans cooler.

Post by **mecheng** » 04 Apr 2014, 22:25

Just did a compression test, 180-185 psi across all the cylinders!!! I knew the engine was strong but this
Is confirmation

Should I change the rad?

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Apr 2014, 22:43

Oh yeah, nice compression numbers!

I am cautious to recommend radiator replacement because it is a pricey job. One thing I am still wondering is, how bad is the oil in the coolant? Is it like, turning your coolant bottle into a murky cess pool? A pic would be good. Did it just start recently, or was it that way when you got the car?

Is it the original radiator, do you know?

Post by **mecheng** » 06 Apr 2014, 17:37

I was cautious too so I decided to do a full coolant flush. I used only half the bottle of the flush fluid and 2 cycles of distiller water flush. The coolant was pretty dirty. Now the coolant looks nice and clean.
I felt the new coolant from the bottle and it has a oily feel to it, and I've read it is added to lubricate the water pump. So I think that is what I was feeling.

There is no white fluid in the oil and the trans fluid looks red but I will change it. All in all, I'm pretty glad I think I am out of the dark. It is the original volvo Valeo rad. I think I should change the cap and rotor too.

Post by **mecheng** » 08 Apr 2014, 07:33

I got the small nipple I lost from the dealer but they weren't sure what the part number is for the 90 deg hose so they gave me some vacuum hose.

The hose they gave me was too big (3/8") so I got some 5/16" hose which is the right size but the hose kinks because it is such a tight radius so I need a pre-bent hose. Can anybody help with the part number, is there a site I can access. I'm sure Volvo sells it, with such a tight radius and close to the heat from the radiator fan it takes a lot of abuse so I'm sure other people have a rotted hose.

Post by **mecheng** » 08 Apr 2014, 07:36

One more thing: the PCV is not building up pressure and was serviced not too long ago and yes I just changed the oil filler gasket but I'm getting oil on the valve cover. I suspect it is from the PCV valve hose on the top.

Is it common for them to leak from this area? Are the Oetiker clamps any good, can you tighten it?
Should I remove it and replace with a regular clamp. Thanks

Post by **rspi** » 08 Apr 2014, 08:19

Not sure which hose or line you are referring to from the vacuum tree on the intake manifold? I usually pull that kind of stuff from the cars in the junk yard when they look newish.

You should clean the top of the motor real good. Drive one day then check it again. No need to put the plastic cover on it. Then look real close to see if the oil is coming off the tube or cap. If off the cap, your cap tabs (or cover receiver) may be worn and a new cap may be in order. If the PCV tube is leaking, you should be able to tighten the clamp. You will need a tool to tighten it.

Post by **erikv11** » 08 Apr 2014, 08:21

For all of those vacuum lines, your best bet is to just use generic vacuum hose not the elbows and various connectors. It is no problem to change the path so that the bend is not so tight. You can get silicone hose, it is more flexible than rubber, but you should be able to make rubber work.

Some people love Oetiker clamps, some don't. I would indeed just replace it with a screw clamp, yes it is common for that hose to leak. Beware, if it is old and hardened it may not tighten well.

Post by **cn90** » 08 Apr 2014, 08:26

I am sorry if I did not read all of your posts, but these are useful links for your project:

1. ABS Module: some people here re-soldered it themselves. I tried that but unsuccessfully, so I used BBA-reman dot com and they rebuilt my ABS Module for $60. They are based in Massachusetts.

2. PCV: since the car is old with 150K+, I modified the vent pipe using 5/8-inch heater hose. It is now 1.5 years later, so far so good. I just checked yesterday: no more smoking dipstick. Car runs perfectly with this modification:

DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Mod: no more smoking dipstick!
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=53448

3. Purge Valve. I tried the ghetto trick but didn't work, so I bought a brand-new Bosch Purge Valve for $45. So far so good 1.5 years later. See the photo I posted in the thread below:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 1&start=14

4. The Trans Cooler Line Clip: I re-use the clip (note it has a thick and thinner side!) and apply a screw-type clamp, which in my opinion is better than zip tie. I learned this the hard way: metal clip worked itself loose, I lost most of ATF on a night with freezing rain. Scary! Re-installed the metal clip with screw-type clamp, all is good now. I also rebuilt the cooler lines using generic rubber hoses for $10 (instead of $200): so far so good 1.5 years later, no ATF leak whatsoever. Detail below including the metal clip + clamp:

DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Trans Cooler Line Rebuild for $10!
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=55794

1998 T5 - New Member Introduction and Questions

Re: 1998 T5 - New Member Introduction and Questions