2001 S60 Rough Idle No Codes

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 06 Nov 2014, 13:58

OK – I’ve had my 2001 S60 2.4T for ~12 years. The latest problem started with a “No oil in engine” warning while sitting in a parking lot. Discovered camshaft seal on front cam had pushed out and oil was slinging all over the timing belt. Got the car home and replaced the complete PCV system. During this process I also replaced all of the vacuum hoses that are routed in a bundle across the top of the transmission because they were disintegrating. I purchased the correct tool to hold the camshafts in position and removed the timing belt and front camshaft sprocket. I replaced the 1 seal and reassembled everything with the same timing belt (I plan to buy a new one). I followed directions for CVVT positioning during setup of timing belt. Started car and was absolutely amazed how well it ran. Most likely this was due to replacement of all vacuum hoses. Car ran great for 3 days. Today I began accelerating and suddenly lost all power. Car restarted but I could not keep it running without each foot on gas/brake. No codes in the moment. I got a P0014 (camshaft pos) code and P1618 (comm.. bwtn trans/engine) at one point but they will not come back anymore. Car runs just fine once it is moving, but shifts very strangely when decelerating and spits/sputters when idling. Anyone know what the likely cause is for sudden change? Without a persistent code, I’m not sure where to throw my money. Thinking I should verify fuel pressure / cylinder pressure next. Any advice/experience would be greatly appreciated.

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 07 Nov 2014, 14:39

Just removed the old timing belt and found the crank is off by one tooth. Crank is rotated clockwise too far. Both camshafts line up correctly in the notches on the cover. Anyone know if I can rotate the crank back (counterclockwise) one tooth to get all marks to line up? Re-install the timing belt and test? Do I need to step through some procedure to make sure everything is correct?

Sardine · Post by **Sardine** » 08 Nov 2014, 03:07

I want to know the answer to this question too. Is the relationship between crank gear and piston positions one to one. By that I mean, it does not matter how you turn your crank, once the crank gear get back to the same spot, the piston positions should be exactly as they were before.

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 08 Nov 2014, 16:42

Turns out I had 2 problems.

#1 The timing was off. Turned the crank counterclockwise one tooth and installed new timing belt. This time I made double sure the 2 indents on the teeth were on each side of the pointer after turning engine over 2 full revolutions. This is very difficult to see if the crank pulley is left on. Attached picture shows what it should look like

#2 The intake tube going into the throttle body had come loose. This was the reason for the sudden change and why the car would no longer idle. In my rush to finish the job, I must not have fully tightened the clamp and this allowed the tube to come loose. But hey - it led me to the timing issue that needed to be fixed at some point

Surprised the car ran so well the first 3 days with the crank advanced one tooth. Hopefully it runs good for a lot longer this time.

: cranktiming.jpg (39.25 KiB) Viewed 1058 times

draser · Post by **draser** » 10 Nov 2014, 07:15

Glad it's sorted, good picture. Did you have trouble finding the marks on sprokets and crank?

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 17 Nov 2014, 06:12

Nearly impossible to find the marks with the crank pulley left in place unless you know what to look for. Now I know