98 V70 T5 Replacing the Coolant Hoses in Pics

[cn90]

On the issue of "Rebuilding Hoses", whether it is heater hoses, ATF cooler hoses or oil cooler hoses, the principle is the same:

1. Remove the factory crimp, this is the difficult part. Wear googles and use the angle grinder (or dremel tool), slowly remove the crimp. Make sure you don't damage the barb fitting under the rubber hose.

2. Fit new hose with the correct length. NOTE: for transmission, use ATF rated hoses. For heater hoses, use standard 5/8-inch heater hose ($1/foot).

3. Clamp: regular screw-type vs Oetiker, your choice.

You will save tons of money rebuilding your hoses.

Detail below:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=55794


PS: The ONLY hose you should never rebuild in your garage at home is the high-pressure hose from the PS Pump ---> Steering Rack. For this hose, use OEM hose, no matter what the cost is! This hose, if burst while driving, will cause loss of steering boost and can cause fire (Example: Mercedes and BMW fires...).

[mecheng]

Instead of cutting the metal lines inside the car why not attach a generic heater hose to the metal end of the hose inside the engine bay. This way you keep the factory fit and it should be easier to do.
I'm not sure of the OD on the heater hose and if you can get a rubber hose to fit on it after you debur it.
But it would keep the factory seal of noise/debris from entering into the cabin.

BTW: nice body work Ben850; I've done it before and it takes a lot of patience but I hate it.

[cn90]

Because the factory design is convoluted over-engineered non-sense: this O-ring, that O-ring, this quick disconnect, that quick disconnect etc. that are prone to failure.

I am putting together some random photos to illustrate what I think is a better approach:

Heater core ---> cut metal pipes (inside cabin) ---> generic hose (and clamp) to "recycled metal elbow"
---> firewall ---> another hose (and clamp) ---> engine block.

[j-dawg]

How well does the hose clamp hold onto the factory elbows? There's no bead on them to retain the hose. I'd be worried about hoses blowing off. (I drove the better part of a kilomile with those elbows shorted using hose clamps and a short section of hose and experienced no problems, so it's more of a long-term concern.)

McMaster-Carr sells 5/8" brass barbed elbows for ~$9 each. I've ordered a pair of those. You can also get plastic elbows at any auto parts store for just under half that.

[mecheng]

Because the factory design is convoluted over-engineered non-sense: this O-ring, that O-ring, this quick disconnect, that quick disconnect etc. that are prone to failure.

I am putting together some random photos to illustrate what I think is a better approach:

Heater core ---> cut metal pipes (inside cabin) ---> generic hose (and clamp) to "recycled metal elbow"
---> firewall ---> another hose (and clamp) ---> engine block.

Hoses.JPG

Ok, My idea is to do half of what is required, it looks like it will work. I see the hose from the pics the hose secured to the recycled metal eblow.

Because:
What keeps the hose from moving around ?
What about shafing the hose?
What seals the firewall?
Much less work

I've never had one issue with the connection: no leaks, never came loose. Its only when people start trying to unhook it improperly, or not replace the O ring when they do. If you leave it alone, it is normally okay.

Nonetheless, if you do see issues with the o-ring connection. I see the merit. Glad to see that just securing a generic hose seems to work but I imagine to use a generous bend radius.

[cn90]

How well does the hose clamp hold onto the factory elbows? There's no bead on them to retain the hose. I'd be worried about hoses blowing off. (I drove the better part of a kilomile with those elbows shorted using hose clamps and a short section of hose and experienced no problems, so it's more of a long-term concern.)...

I have done this many times in other cars (Jeep), smooth metal pipe with no ridge, slide the hose in and clamp it.
It holds the connection very very well.

[songzunhuang]

Mine didn't fail like yours. It Blew.

My failure was odd and a bit entertaining. My low coolant light came one as I pulled into my driveway - count my luck stars for that. Here's a picture of what I saw after I got out of the car.



It looks like there was a steady stream of coolant shooting out of the hose which made a little trail that exactly matches the pattern I drive when pulling into the parking space.

After much inspection, it's clear that my heater hose was bulging and there was a small hole in it. Of course when the car was hot, the hose was probably bulging a lot and the hole was bigger!

[songzunhuang]

What kind of hoses did you buy?

I got all OEM hoses except for the turbo coolant hoses. Those I got from IPD USA and upgraded to their silicon hoses.

I'll be putting in all 6 hoses this weekend.

[erikv11]

... I've never had one issue with the connection: no leaks, never came loose. Its only when people start trying to unhook it improperly, or not replace the O ring when they do. If you leave it alone, it is normally okay.

Nonetheless, if you do see issues with the o-ring connection. I see the merit. Glad to see that just securing a generic hose seems to work but I imagine to use a generous bend radius.

Ironically, the issues will now come from exactly that, leaving it alone. The 20 year old o-rings get crunchy and start to leak. Or the plastic coupler crumbles when stressed. Unless you pull and replace the entire coupler and its assorted knickknacks, there will be issues with the factory setup. The one in your car may be holding out well (so celebrate indeed!) but that is a sample size of one. I've had leaking o-rings on two cars now (luckily both are gone!). The most common occurrence is that they are great all summer and fall but coolant slowly disappears come wintertime, when temps get cold and the metal shrinks and/or the o-rings are less pliable. The coolant leaks down the inside of the firewall and slowly pools under the floor mat(s). Lots of fun to replace when it's 20 degrees in the garage.

[rspi]

I'm playing coolant roulette, yet again. Bottle was almost totally empty with NO warning light. Time to find and fix the leak before the next road trip.