1998 V70 T5, Check engine light is on with no codes

[shawnmacananny]

Did these volvos come with a remote start? I was messing around with the door locks and noticed when i pressed the door lock button twice on the door, the car started. When the brake is pressed it shurts off, just like my suburban. I do not have a key fob for this car, but is it really just as easy as buying a key fob for this car, programming it, pressing the lock button twice to start it?

btw 20 amp battery charger didnt keep up with headlights haha, i pulled the fuse for the headlights, and left key on position one with charger and will check it i another 2 hours.

[Ozark Lee]

I know of no factory remote start option on the '98 models. It would be interesting to take a peek under the driver's side lower dash panel and see what is there.

If you can identify the make and model of an aftermarket alarm/start module you could likely get a remote fairly cheap. They are usually pretty obvious modifications.

...Lee

[shawnmacananny]

That's what i did with the use suburban i purchased, i actually went to reconnect the battery after working on it, and the truck restarted, i had just changed the oil and transmission fluid, luckily i refilled them before reconnecting the battery haha. I found the unit above the steering colum and ust ordered a new unit with remote already programmed for like $50. I'll check back in with my findings.

[shawnmacananny]

Well you were right, there was a remote start, i saw the aftermarkey relays right away, but man they hid the actual box very far up behind the gauge cluster and even zip tied it to the harness! It was pretty difficult to get off, i really didnt want to take the top of the dash off, i got it though. There was a white box on the steering column too, i wonder if that has something to do with disabling the antitheft? I've located the manual for it but cant seem to find info on programming a new remote to it. I guess ill just have to look to buy an identical unit and plug the box in place.

[shawnmacananny]

well after some research it looks like this is a piggay back type system, i doesnt use a separate fob but rather the door locking action activated by the manufacturers key fob to start the vehicle. I guess ill have to bite the bullet and buy a key fob from volvo and get it programmed. is there any software that will allow me to do this myself? It's a 1998 i am reading its not as bad as 1999+ but cant be done by the user like the 1997s. I do have the dash security light, but i read that it cant be done with my year.

[esl_97_850_T5]

Does SERVICE light still stay on always while the engine is turned on -- ie, past the 2 minute interval in which it will be illuminated if one of the Service intervals is exhausted?

[Ozark Lee]

well after some research it looks like this is a piggay back type system, i doesnt use a separate fob but rather the door locking action activated by the manufacturers key fob to start the vehicle. I guess ill have to bite the bullet and buy a key fob from volvo and get it programmed. is there any software that will allow me to do this myself? It's a 1998 i am reading its not as bad as 1999+ but cant be done by the user like the 1997s. I do have the dash security light, but i read that it cant be done with my year.

As I recall I was able to buy an ebay fob for my daughter's '98 and one of the local independent shops got the PIN number (for the car) and programmed it for around $35.00. For my '99 two keys and a remote keyfob set me back $497.00 at the stealership.

...Lee

[shawnmacananny]

The service light went out after a few minutes of bing on, i guess everything is fine now. I left the car idling for the past 3 hours with AC running while i cleaned it out and removed the head liner. Can you buy complete replacement headliners? i am not sure i want to try to recover it, the orange stuff has been spray glued man times it looks like.

I also still seem to have an oil leak from some where, i think its coming from the dipstick, its broken, and i know the gasket is bad. I noticed a pretty big oil leak whn i first started i up in the garage, it had dripped about a softball sized spot in 5 minutes of idling, it looked like the AC lines were covered but i couldnt find anysource of the leak. Over the next 3 hours it only dripped maybe a golfball sized area what i assumed was from what initially spilled. Is it possible the dipstick is blowing oil out at start up before the rings seal? have ordered a replacement dipstick, block oring and dipstick to the updated dipstick/tube. i am not sure that the oil isnt overfilled with the dipstick being broken. I put in exactly 6 quarts, today i replaced the filter since i had driven it 30 miles since the overhaul. I'll change the oil again once i run a tank of gas though it.

I havent taken it on a long drive yet since i sealed the 3 rear plates and the rear oil return line, i wanted to wait until i replaced the dipstick to minimize the ammount of oil spilling everywhere. Is it possible the oil is blowing out from a bad dipstick seal? I wouldnt think oil would be that high

[Ozark Lee]

When you did the top end work did you service the PCV system? What you describe sounds a lot like a clogged PCV and replacing the dipstick seal could make things worse in the long run since the engine will start to blow cam seals or even, God forbid, the rear main seal.

...Lee

[shawnmacananny]

i replaced everything in the pcv system with volvo parts, was $150 or so for the catch can, the hoses and clamps. i also removed and cleaned the ptc nipple. I also made sure the bottom hole was clear on engine block, i used a syringe to inject about 4 ounces of seafoam into the hole to make sure it drained, and also hopefuly help clean any build up that may be further down. Theres no smoke out of the dipstick tube, or out of the valve cover with the cap removed when its warmed up. I'll pull dip stick and start the car next time to see if there is any pressure or smoking at first start up.

I did hook up a line that was previously unhooked, theres a type of waste gate looking valve above the turbo that jut had a 5/8" nipple coming from it, i found a hard plastic/rubber line that ran up front to what i believe is the AIR pump. I connected that up because it seemed to be the correct length. I double checked all vaccum lines that they were tight, i can pull hoses from PTC and check and make sure its not clogged too next time. I'm really not sure what else it could be, i did a compression test before starting any work, i forget the exact numbers, but it was within like 2psi of the high end of the range, and the 4 good cylinders were within 3psi of each other. #4 was dead because of the valve, i guess i could do another compression check and see if that cylinder was washed out and damages, i saw no scoring on cylinder, crosshatching was all still intact even at 234k. I kept cylinders full of oil when head was off, all rings held oil for a few hours to a day.