98 T5 Air Pump Disconnect

Post by **mecheng** » 25 Mar 2015, 07:32

I had to remove my air pump during a radiator install and I was wondering if I can somehow keep it off the car. I already did the Diode delete mod.

What do I do with the two hoses that connect to it?
What about the electrical connection to the pump?

Thanks

Post by **Ben850** » 25 Mar 2015, 11:13

Have you any photos of the area?
I may be soon doing the same with my '98 XC.

I also will try a T-5 ECU from a '98. No SAS in the vehicle from which it had come, so no diode bypass involved.
Keep us informed.

Post by **mecheng** » 25 Mar 2015, 12:37

I'm pretty sure all you need to do is cap the exhaust connection and hole to intake.

The intake is pretty straighforward, just use some electrical tape. Not sure about the exhaust connection though, I suppose you can tape the rubber pipe. Better yet, some how cap the port, I have to look at it tonight.

Post by **Ben850** » 25 Mar 2015, 12:50

mecheng wrote:I'm pretty sure all you need to do is cap the exhaust connection and hole to intake.

The intake is pretty straighforward, just use some electrical tape. Not sure about the exhaust connection though, I suppose you can tape the rubber pipe. Better yet, some how cap the port, I have to look at it tonight.

I was not worried of the capping, or, closing off part. More so the ECU reaction.

The fact that I do have an ECU from a T-5 of the same year (non-SAS), it is from a HPT as opposed to the LPT in an XC.
If all goes well, I can look forward to a decent tune for the 13g.

I am reading this back and cracking up. It seems like text speak, but these are actual terms for turbo nerds.
I may have become one?

Post by **mecheng** » 25 Mar 2015, 13:23

Ben850 wrote:
mecheng wrote:I'm pretty sure all you need to do is cap the exhaust connection and hole to intake.

The intake is pretty straighforward, just use some electrical tape. Not sure about the exhaust connection though, I suppose you can tape the rubber pipe. Better yet, some how cap the port, I have to look at it tonight.
I was not worried of the capping, or, closing off part. More so the ECU reaction.

The fact that I do have an ECU from a T-5 of the same year (non-SAS), it is from a HPT as opposed to the LPT in an XC.
If all goes well, I can look forward to a decent tune for the 13g.

I am reading this back and cracking up. It seems like text speak, but these are actual terms for turbo nerds.
I may have become one?

Everyone that drives and posts on a 15yr + Volvo must have some Nerd in them, but Nerd is the new cool!

Post by **Ben850** » 25 Mar 2015, 14:08

I'll proudly own it. Called myself one when it wasn't cool.
I have been called worse.

Post by **erikv11** » 25 Mar 2015, 17:26

Nerdy minutiae ...

Keep the relay and the solenoid connected to power. Everything else can be removed.

- remove all vacuum lines, be sure to cap off the open port at tree
- remove the pump, cap the intake hole at the air box
- remove the SAS check valve on the exhaust and plug the hole there, any bolt will do I have used an oil pan drain plug. You don't want is so long it sticks into the exhaust stream.

Post by **Ben850** » 25 Mar 2015, 17:41

That all sounds good Eric. That would apply to the original ECU if I am not mistaken?
If I were to try a T5 ECU that had not SAS would I need the solenoid and other wiring connected?

Post by **erikv11** » 25 Mar 2015, 22:11

Ben850 wrote:That all sounds good Erik. That would apply to the original ECU if I am not mistaken?
If I were to try a T5 ECU that had not SAS would I need the solenoid and other wiring connected?

Oh, right, I was replying to mecheng. With the diode one needs to leave the relay and solenoid, the SAS-spec ECU will look for those, but yes you could just get rid of it all.