98 V70 glt compression test interpretation

[henmill]

UPDATE:

Progress has been very slow, but regardless, here's what's up.

Have been taking apart things slowly and closely inspecting to try to find clues of what all is leaking. As you'll see in the following pictures everything is covered in oil so it's not always completely obvious what is coming from where.

I've drained the coolant in preparation to possibly replace the radiator. Upon closer inspection where I thought the upper radiator hose was leaking, it looks more like the oil cooler line just below was leaking. Any opinions based on the pictures are encouraged.

evidence of massive oil loss from oil filler cap. >.< the cam cover had sooooo much oil pooling on top and flowing off to the back of the engine above the turbo... pictures do not reflect how much oil was up there when I first took the spark plug cover off.






the path the oil was taking down the back of the engine:






touch this without a glove on. i dare you.




**Do the two hoses shown here look like they are close to failure? I am trying to find these hoses on IPD and FCP and cannot seem to find a place to buy replacements**




such gunk.


Bonus bad ball joint shot:


Bonus Bonus happy nat'l beer day from April 7th:

[Ozark Lee]

The oil cap gasket is obviously a problem and you have a handle on that. The lines to and from the intercooler look typical. The coolant line to the turbo looks iffy and that is a line that has a tendency to blow at an inopportune time. I think the part number is 9471700 but check that for fit on your year and engine. That is from my '99 and it may be different on your '98.

The oil return line on your turbo is leaking pretty badly and the oil below the engine is due to that. I can't tell much from the radiator pictures but new orings and clamps for the oil lines are fairly inexpensive. You should be able to get them through any CarQuest auto parts via the World Pac line.

The ball joint, if it isn't already bad is going to be bad fairly soon so budget for a replacement control arm. I use either Lemforder or Meyle HD arms and I avoid the real cheap control arms since I don't really enjoy changing them. The cheap arms tend to last under a year even with good boots whereas a good quality replacement will last 100k miles or so.

...Lee

[rspi]

I would replace that coolant supply to the turbo. The part info is in the video.

[henmill]

Thanks for that info rspi and Ozark Lee. I'm trying to get my last round of parts ordered today and will hopefully get to put them on this week, but the weather is not looking favorable to be able to work everyday. So the plan now is to remove a few more odds and ends then do a big time cleanup of the engine, followed by putting on the new parts!

Have you guys ever used the Bosch platinum plugs as opposed to Volvo? Vlvworld sent me some volvo plugs with the three electrodes which I really don't like messing with, and ipd/fcp charge a lot for the volvo plugs I know I like...

I'm also looking into the heater core replacement. I've noticed the "sweet smell" with heat/ a/c for some time now. My girlfriend always asks why it smells like maple syrup when I turn it on haha.

[Ozark Lee]

For spark plugs I just use the real cheap Bosch copper cores. The Bosch +2 or +4 are terrible (The gap is about 0.045 and you can't change it) and many have reported trouble with the single electrode platinums.

The only downside to the coppers is that you need to re-gap them every 25k miles or so. As cheap as they are you can replace them at that interval and still be money ahead but just re-gapping them makes them work great again.

...Lee

[henmill]

A bit more progress and a few more questions for the experts:

Have been slowly taking things apart, cleaning and taking lots of pictures to help me remember how everything goes together..

used this stuff on the first attack of cleaning:




The turbo intake pipe was such a pain to get out...along with everything else back there






check out the crud inside the lower rad hose inlet to the block! this stuff looked like it could be wiped out but in fact is kind of caked..


the little coolant connector hose off:




the sunuvab*tch turbo coolant hose off. I can reuse this right? lol this thing felt like silly puddy almost


my phone camera did something weird to this picture for why I don't know:



Lastly, I'm thinking about getting a new heater core and doing the heater hose coupler bypass mod. I have had the "sweet" smell whenever my heat comes on for some time now. Any opinions? From what I have read this system is overly complicated and the elimination of the firewall coupler thing doesn't look that difficult and is much cheaper to maintain.

To me this picture shows evidence of some leakage from some component in there


Like I said in the beginning, when I start this sort of thing I like to be thorough, so I'm thinking of doing all coolant hoses while I'm at this. Hoping a coolant flush can take care of the nasty nasty that's caked/corroded onto all the metal coolant lines.

Thanks for any words of wisdom.

Henry

[henmill]

More taking apart images...
I'm not intending to make this some kind of work-in-progress thread, but I think some of these pictures may be useful to show what things get like when neglected for some time..and hopefully will serve as a nice before/after comparison when all is said and done.

**For those with weak stomachs now would be the time to exit the room**

Got into the PCV system last weekend:




















applied the degreaser stuff taking care to avoid spraying already tired electrical bits


ahhh. not perfect but gettin there.


as it turns out I do not, in fact, have the rare brown block edition of the white block

next up is the bottom port to oil separator. I'm thinking a seafoam and water solution + medium hard brush-type thing to clean this without knocking the crud back into the engine??


these are the engine side heater core hoses. I'm thinking I'll replace these. Not failed yet but while I'm back there...




In my previous post I showed a picture of what looks like remnants of coolant leakage from either the firewall junction for the heater hoses or the heater core assembly box thing...Any opinions on this?

[MMT51]

Reminder on the heater core to wash thoroughly before installation. Many have an oil coating from the factory. Warm soapy water, or several passes through the dishwasher until smell is gone, otherwise you will long for the day when it only smelled like maple syrup.

This is high on the list of mistakes I tell other people not to make.

[abscate]

Don't sweat Getting a little crud into the engine Neal. From the sump the strainer will get the big bits, and the oil filter the rest. It's not exactly a surgical suite in there. I'm used to air cooled VW where you get metal sludge in the sump every 3000 miles!

No URO hoses please. Bite the bullet, pay for the best and cry once.

[henmill]

About URO hose comment...I have the IPD PCV kit. I think I peeled off a volvo sticker from the new long hose that goes from oil separator box to ptc, but I still don't like how rigid it is. The old one snapped in a few places during disassembly :/