Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

[Kazthebassman]

Hello All,
I have a 1999 C70 cabriolet 2.4 T5
Are there any actual braking symptoms associated with this solder joint failure ?
So far all I have read, states ABS and traction lights on.
My ABS seems to function at times when not warranted and not function at times when it is warranted.
ABS and traction light are lit most of the time.
When the lights are on the cruise control does not work by speedo does.
I have recently replaced the rear pads, rotors and parking shoes. The parking shoes brake material had become un-bonded prior to this service.
My ABS rings appear OK.
Do you think the shoes could have damaged the ABS sensors ? or are my symptoms typical of an ABS module solder joint failure ?

[Ozark Lee]

Other than the ABS not functioning all the time the brakes themselves will continue to work fine with a bad module. As far as the wheel sensors go, if the sensor wasn't physically broken off and the reluctance ring isn't missing any teeth then chances are they are OK. The only way to know for sure is to scan the ABS but if the module is bad it can give you false indications.

The intermittent operation is very typical of a failing module. If you have a bad wheel sensor the ABS warning light will never turn off.

...Lee

[Kazthebassman]

Thanks Lee,
I'll re-solder the connections and go from there. It can't hurt and from what I have read, the joints fail in most of these cars eventually.

[T5Lover]

I spent the last month looking for a cost effective solution for my ABS and TRAC lights...red every forum and watched every Youtube video, anything really to avoid the $800 bill from the dealer. I took a gamble and tried https://www.midwest-abs.com.

Since the E-5 socket was going to run me $14, I figured since the module swap was only $10 more which included use of a socket, it was more economical and faster since the winter snow storm was coming and I needed ABS and Trac Control. With lifetime warranty, i had nothing to lose and hundreds to save.

Package came in 3 days, module was swapped in 90-minutes and everything was back to Matt a couple of days later. Lights are off, snow storm rolled in and I had ABS and Trac control today in the snow which was AWESOME! plus the annoying lights are now gone. If only, Matt could do this for my air pump!

Try it...https://www.midwest-abs.com Doesn't really get easier than this.

[kaneelschep]

mine had clearly allready been opened before by some previous owner. also the light was connected to the battery light.
I fixed the light Immediately when i got the car. Then found this forum and tried the controller fix.
I ended up doing the repair twice on my tracs abs controller.
First time light came back on intermittant after about 1000km.
Second time was only a few months ago. But took only an hour in total.
If you have no torx, a 4mm socket with a small socketwrench will work perfectly too.
the second time i took more care peeling the silicone off the print.
Also i did not just reflow but used new solder on every point.
It has been working ever since I turned the key after reinstalling.
I had something else too.
The two wires coming from abs pump had no insulation anymore because it became brittle and just fell of.
I took the black cap of the pump and cleaned the wires as far to the pump as possible. Then coated the starting point with silicone to keep them seperate and dry. Then insulated the wires with powertape.
Still works perfectly.
You can do this too! just try.

[m491]

I have to agree with T5Lover. I had the same issues with my sons 97 850 and it was very strait forward. The biggest issue for me was attempting to change out the module without removing the air box. Note to self, you need more room to work out this module as it sits at an angle and you have to work blind by feeling the lower star bolts. The Midwest ABS's exchange program is a no brainer.

[charleskennedy23]

Hello MVS Community,

Jus followed Ozark's Procedure for repairing the ABS module on my 98 V70 t5 and I am pretty sure I am back in business. Only driven about 15 miles with repaired module, but no lights or codes so far. Only time will tell.

Couple of notes that might benefit others…

- I used a dremel cutting tool to open the module… In my opinion this has got to be the best way to take the box apart with out damaging anything and keeping your sanity. Note that you do not need to cut through the metal posts. Just cut the plastic and pry open with a good stiff screwdriver. It will come apart.

- Should you lose your E-5 torx socket in the black abyss of the engine compartment, a 4mm or 5/32 socket will work on the nut. I was fortunate in that I lost my E-5 when putting the bolts back in. Not sure how this would have gone trying to pull the bolts out with a non torx socket.

- I have decent eyes and could not see broken connections anywhere when I opened the board. However, I re-soldered the joints highlighted by Lee and now the ABS module appears to be working properly. For what it is worth, I held the soldering iron on each of the big posts for about 5-minutes to get them warm enough.

ok I think that's about all I have to add to the conversation. Thanks to Ozark Lee for the the great writeup that gave me the confidence to try this job. I really appreciated having this tutorial on how to do the repair.

[abscate]

Thanks for the post Charles. How many watts was your soldering iron? That's good guidance to give others o this job.

[charleskennedy23]

Abscate,

30 Watts and 700 Degrees… Apparently not enough since the light came back on last night. I am not sure that my work accomplished anything.

uggh… Ozark said his a 40 watts… What do guys typically use when doing this repair?

[Ozark Lee]

Even a 40 Watt will struggle a bit. The really cool one to use is the small butane soldering pencil but they are fairly costly at around $70.00 for a good one. With the butane versions you can get it hot enough for the big pump pins and then dial it back for the small control and sensor pins.

...Lee