2005 XC90 with 95K miles. Symptoms: squeaky rear brake during stop, also RR rotor lost a chunk of metal (see photos).
If you have done Parking Brake shoes before, this is similar to other Volvos. I wrote a DIY Parking Brake for 1998 S70 previously, info in forum.
Over the years, I have found that after 8-10y/80K+, the parking brake shoes delaminate, the friction material just simply falls off, perhaps due to trapped heat inside the drum portion of the rotor.
No matter what car you own, after some 8-10y/80K+, just do a brake overhaul.
PARTS:
- Purchased from autohausaz.com, rmeuropean.com and Volvo dealer in Lisle IL (See their website).
- ATE rotor: made in China
- Rear Brake Pads: Jurid made in India
- Parking Brake Shoes: Pagid made in Germany.
- New retainer springs, big spring, small spring from Volvo OEM. See photos for PNs.
So...my XC90 is now multi-ethnic lol...
- Oh, during adjustment, the adjuster clip (inside the cabin) fell into a black hole, fished for 1/2h with the telescopic magnet, no luck. So get an extra one PN 30683358, $2-$3 at dealer.
PROCEDURE:
- Safety is #1 concern, so when working on RR wheel, chock the LF wheel on both the fore and aft parts as shown. I am a minimalist, my garage is tight, although I can afford a 3-ton floor jack, I don’t want it simply b/c I don’t have space and also it is heavy at 70 lbs+. I have a trust-worthy 2-ton floor jack ($20 at Harbor Freight or Advance Auto)…I simply add 2 pieces of 2x10 lumber (SUV has high ground clearance, so the lumber pieces raise the floor jack up), some plumbing adaptor, piece of tire rubber as cushion and I am good to go.
- Place jackstand below the control arm as shown. Then I SLOWLY lower the jack a bit, as if to share the load so roughly 50% of jackstand and 50% on floor jack. Another way is to lower the floor jack and gently jack it up until it is snug against the jack point. Then give it 1-2 more pumps.
1. Two 13-mm bolts hold the caliper. Box wrench and hammer to get them off. During install, I add a bit of antiseize, then tighten the bolt by hand, then rubber hammer gently tapping it so the wrench rotates about 45 degrees on the clock. Have done this thingy for years and it works for me. Or you can use a torque wrench but fitting a torque wrench in a wheel well is challenging!
- Hang the caliper using a hook.
2. The 10-mm bolt holds the rotor in place. Once the 10-mm bolt is off, tap the rotor with a hammer to get it off. Release the Parking Brake first!!!
3. See the Parking Brake anatomy. When you compare this setup against the 1998 Volvo S70, the XC90 does not have the “star adjuster”. Instead, the adjuster on the XC90 is moved to a location at the console, from the driver’s right thigh looking down.
4. Use a pair of pliers to remove the small spring first (WEAR GOGGLES!).
The “retainer spring”, look at the new spring and you will see how it works. Basically once pressed in, the hook on the spring latches onto the slit in the wheel hub.
5. I greased the brake cable where it enters the hub (it is deep inside).
6. During assembly, I find my special brake pliers to be useless. Here is the trick, see the sequence I numbered…
#1. Bottom shoe first, use “retainer spring”, to lock it in place.
#2. Now hook the big spring to the bottom shoe and the top shoe using Vise-Grips to pull on the spring.
#2. Now pull on the upper shoe and seat it properly on the “Expander”.
#3. Install the rectangular thingy (this separates the top and bottom, shoes). I apply a tiny amount of grease at points where the shoes contact the Expander and the rectangular thingy, you don’t have to.
#4. Small spring can be done by fingers or pliers.
#5. Lastly, install the “retainer spring” on the top shoes.
Whatever you do, make sure the “retainer spring” sits properly.
NOTE the numbering sequence that works for me...
- XC90-Rear-Brake-10.JPG (69.58 KiB) Viewed 28445 times
- XC90-Rear-Brake-11.JPG (76.11 KiB) Viewed 28445 times
7. Install new rotor. Don’t forget the 10-mm bolt.
- XC90-Rear-Brake-13.JPG (80.18 KiB) Viewed 28445 times
- XC90-Rear-Brake-15.JPG (61.52 KiB) Viewed 28445 times
8. Now, using a brake caliper tool ($5 at auto parts store), compress the piston until it stops.
Then install new brake pads. I added a bit of anti-squeal compound where the pads meet the caliper or piston. Install the 13-mm bolts (I use a bit of anti-seize here). Once tightened by hand, I add another 45-degree turn on the wrench and call it a day. Or you can use torque wrench too.
9. Once all done, re-install wheels, lower the car, and tighten the lugs as spec. I just tighten by hand and give it a firm tug on all 5 lugs.
10. Don’t drive the car yet. This is b/c the system is not safe yet!!! During the compression of the piston, the pads are pushed back and are not in contact with the rotor!
- With engine off, gently press on the brake pedal about 1-2 inches (don’t push it too far down!).
- After some 8-10 strokes, you should have a firm brake pedal.
- Now test drive the vehicle.
PS: PARKING Brake adjustment is done via the adjuster near the console (driver right thigh looking down).
- Peel the carpet back, use a small screwdriver to lift the metal clip. Don't lose this clip and you will never find it, it is deep crevice underneath! Best is to place some rags etc. under the cable to catch the clip! If you lose it, no big deal, get new clip from dealer for $2-$3.
- Now, VIDA instruction is very retarded. Parking Brake should be firm after 2-5 clicks on the pedal. Mine was at 7 after the brake job. This works for me: once the clip is off, use the small screwdriver and pry the rod toward the FRONT of the car to tighten up the cable. This is almost similar to bicycle brake cable (but bicycle use an adjusting nut).
- Anyway, I lost the clip, and even without it, the rod stays in place.
- XC90-Rear-Brake-17.JPG (95.32 KiB) Viewed 28445 times
That is it boys and girls...
