Just checked the parking brake cable I guess it looks like a gentle bend, not a sharp angle, but here a picture because what do I know.theWIFES_S70 wrote:I can't wait to see pictures of her at Stage 0. That kind of car gives you a lot more street cred than driving a measly ol' N/A, even if she is a 5-speed!
Before you embark on your parking brake job. Make sure you check out your parking brake cable. Check out this part of the parking brake system.
It sometimes brakes here and will necessitate a parking brake cable job. Cheap in terms of parts (approx $35 for two cables), but a whole lotta grunting and swearing! I still haven't gotten to it but the cables are sitting on top of my toolboxes, beckoning me!
Here's the tutorial:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=61043
Also, I don't think this qualifies as a stage 0 kind of thing, but you gotta swap out those old crusty shifter bushings. It makes the gearbox feel so much smoother!! https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=76272 Also, don't be afraid to dump out the old gearbox oil out and refresh it...
Will consider replacing the shifter bushings. Looks like something I actually trust myself to do. What kind of a noticeable difference does it make?
Measured the voltage of the battery with the engine off at 12.5 V. With the engine on ~13.8 V, and read ~13.8 V with all lights, stereo, and A/C on. Could not find the positive terminal on the alternator (kind of buried in there), so need a little more direction on where to find that.tryingbe wrote:With car running, measure the voltage on the battery. Take note.
With car running, turn on ALL electronic device, headlight, a/c, defrost, wiper if you want, radio, etc. measure the voltage on the battery again. Then, measure the voltage between the positive end of the alternator, and the positive end of the battery.
Report back.
My only problem with doing this is I need to drive the car everyday to get to work (oddly except for today, surprise day off). By the time I'm back home, I'm tired and running low on daylight. Which puts me not really in the mood to take everything apart, see what's wrong, put it all back together, to then take it all apart again later to fix it.zhenya wrote:You might want to pull the rear brakes apart before you order anything for the parking brake stuff to see for yourself what's going on. That way you can order everything you need at once, plus you'll know how it all works when you go to fix it for real. The parking brake has two adjustment points - one is inside the rear disc and adjusts the pad position against the drum, the other is at the lever end inside the cabin, and adjusts the slack in the cable. Neither of these will help if the cable is seized internally, which will be obvious if you take it apart. There is a cam inside the rear brake that the cable pulls against to engage the brake pads. This should move freely when you pull the lever. If not, you probably need a new cable. FCP sells a kit that includes everything you need for a rear brake job. Service or replace the slider pins that hold the pads in place if they are the least bit corroded.
