Could be. 21 year old car. Connectors had to be "Gorilla Taped" to reconnect them and hold the connectors together. Zip Ties to help with that. I'd really just like to unhook the battery, cut the connectors off, and direct connect the wire.s. Since the wires were connected via connectors that are falling apart, I figure that I could just solder them together, tape that up, and not have to worry about the wires disconnecting or separating, causing me to have to go under the hood, pull them together, and get the car to start. What do you think? Cut off the connectors, connect the wires, solder them, tape them up, and I'm good?abscate wrote:That looks like a heavy current wire powering one of the fuse boxes?
Yikes
Wire under the Air Cleaner
Re: Wire under the Air Cleaner
96 Volvo 850 GLT/NA-Green @312,298 miles
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com
Hmmmm... I don't recall if the connectors are white, but both connectors were connected to a metallic center part that connected both ends of the wire, together. That fell to pieces, so I connected the connectors and Gorilla Taped that up to keep the connectors from falling to pieces. It's been connected that way for a lil over a year. Every now and then, when the car won't start, I go under there, pull the two ends together, and the car starts. I'd just like to connect the wires without the failing connectors. I suppose in theory, I could get the connectors, cut the ends off, solder in the connectors, connect them, and be done. That what you recommend? Replacing the connectors?bmdubya1198 wrote:Looks to me like the wire for the crank sensor. Is the connector white?
That's DEFINITELY something that needs to be replaced. I wouldn't mess with splicing wires for a vital sensor like that, because you could mess with signals and cause more no-start issues.
Last edited by DARK_BLU on 13 Mar 2017, 21:07, edited 1 time in total.
96 Volvo 850 GLT/NA-Green @312,298 miles
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com
Pic from the web. Looks like it is the wires that connect to the Crank Sensor.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/InThe ... sensor.jpg
http://data.motor-talk.de/data/gallerie ... 865679.jpg
Is this it?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1995/v ... nector.htm
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/InThe ... sensor.jpg
http://data.motor-talk.de/data/gallerie ... 865679.jpg
Is this it?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1995/v ... nector.htm
96 Volvo 850 GLT/NA-Green @312,298 miles
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
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I think you are taking about the cam sensor, the part with the big red arrow in https://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleri ... 865679.jpg.
I would indeed splice a new connector into the wiring harness. Maybe even a junkyard one but if you can get a new one, great. Your parts geek link doesn't work.
I would indeed splice a new connector into the wiring harness. Maybe even a junkyard one but if you can get a new one, great. Your parts geek link doesn't work.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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MadeInJapan
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Either the crank sensor or cam sensor heavy wire has to be away from ignition wires when they are to close, the signal gets corrupted. That's why they are shielded. I've seen many no-start or no-run issues due to that wire about touching one of the ignition wires. Just a thought, but I agree- replace the connector, don't just splice and tape. Still, even with the pictures available, I'm at a loss to understand the exact wire. Any better pictures of the bad connector and wires protruding from each side?
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
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MadeInJapan
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On second look of the original picture you posted, I'm thinking it is the cam sensor. I have had to "repair" the connectors (epoxy was my friend!) on these before- they get yellow (and even turn orange) and brittle. Some were made with a black connector rather than white which seemed to hold up better. This is unless the female connector- the one in the car is the one disintegrating- which if it is, this is very rare. When the sensor gets disconnected, there is typically no code set either- the car just doesn't run. The connector plug on the end of the somewhat flat wire is integrated with the wires so there is no just switching the connector out- I do suppose you could cut a decent connector off of another cam sensor but if you're going to do that, why not just switch the whole thing out- it would probably take less time. I do not recommend by-passing the connector completely. This is because some day you will probably have to switch the cam sensor and then you'll have to go through unraveling everything and cutting an end off and splicing again. Do be aware that some cam sensors differ from model to model, so make sure you get the right one. I'm posting a picture of what I think you are describing.

'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
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Oh, if its the sensor end of the wire then there should be no question - just follow it to the sensor, is it cam or crank. If the sensor end of the wire is bad I agree with crlande: replace the sensor, don't mess with the wire. If budget is an issue then grab one from the junkyard, 99.9% of them are just fine.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
Splicing in connectors is all I need, and I can do that myself for cheap. Having the entire sensor replaced still involves replacing the connector on the other side of the connection, and is not going to be affordable, so splicing on connectors, is the way I will go. Thanks to all, for input. Much appreciated.
96 Volvo 850 GLT/NA-Green @312,298 miles
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com
- abscate
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Try the splice but be ready to replace it. It's a shielded connector in the presence of lots of high voltage electrical noise so it might not work well with untwisted pair wiring
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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