steering rack or just inner tie rods? 2005 S60 173k miles

Post by **oragex** » 02 Sep 2017, 10:47

I think there were two rack part # so better double check the fitting.
It is a subframe job, the fluid lines to the rack may be rusted and may need replaced, the lower coupler may be stuck to the rack, the rack bolts to subframe may be stuck. Not a job for beginners. I'd rather go with a used Volvo rack in good condition, these don't normally go bad unless the wrong fluid was used or the dust boots were neglected.
Yes the engine mount has a wire, if I remember well some care must be taken not to damage it when lowering the subframe.

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 02 Sep 2017, 12:50

Found this post, this car also has a wire strap around the engine mount. Wow, this dude took on a huge job, well done!
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=75588&p=447534&hili ... ck#p447879

Some bad news...

Called the dealer - they can't even figure out the PN, need to call Volvo HQ on Tuesday. Price $1300 + perhaps a few hundred more in high pressure lines, depending on answer from HQ. Parts guy explained there are 2 different racks, but there were updates made to each so there is a mess in PNs and it's not clear which combo to use (even armed with SN, chassis number and engine number). Oi.

Checked all the local parts stores - either they don't have it and can't get it at all, or from Napa they have one in Connecticut, won't ship until Tuesday. $290 + core + shipping. It's apparently the only one left in the whole continental USA

.

Am checking inventory at local junkyards now. Given the year, I'm right at the border of PNs so will need to be exceedingly careful picking the correct part based on visual clues or PN match.

Am very tempted to replace all the parts I already have on hand, bolt it back up to the old rack and drive it like that for a while until I can sort out a replacement. I need this car for commuting, leaving it on a jackstands for a week or two not an option.

Oragex, thanks for comments. This is a SoCal car, no rust thankfully, all the bolts have come off without issue, haven't even busted out the impact yet. I have replaced rack and pinion before so I'm not totally green. This however is my first volvo.

Post by **oragex** » 02 Sep 2017, 13:27

Plenty of these on Ebay (not necessarily the correct one for you in the next link), of course it would be ideal to have a look at it before buying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-09-Volvo-S60 ... yE&vxp=mtr

As for the part # you are right in that grey area of confusing Volvo numbers. There are a few items on this car that Volvo messed with its numbers and there is but one sure thing: online parts sites and even the main dealers are just as confused as the car owners about these numbers. Your part no should be marked somewhere on the rack, I'd try to find it and stick with it for the replacement part

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 02 Sep 2017, 14:07

Right-on Oragex, my thoughts exactly. What better way to ensure you have the right PN, than to match the PN!

To future readers: the PN is located in 2 places: a sticker on the top of the rack, under the heatshield, about mid point. This was exceeding difficult to clean and see in situ. There is a PN engraved on the front of the rack, driver side, at the bottom of the pinion shaft region. This I managed to read. Picture below are not from my rack, just examples I found online to show locations.

: Rack PN location 2.JPG (126.63 KiB) Viewed 3468 times

: Rack PN location 1.JPG (184.85 KiB) Viewed 3468 times

my rack PN: 30636273
This has the o-ring sealed flanged push-in lines, both for the inter-piping and the external high pressure piping. Not variable assist, plain rack.

This site (http://volvopartslisle.com/assembly/635 ... eering-Box) says 30636273 has been replaced by 36050359. There are many parts that were replaced by 36050359, and if so then any of those older PNs should also work. Key word being "should"

Looks like I also need 30741950 lower steering shaft (https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/prod ... 41950.html), which I understand was updated to reduce friction and corrosion.

: Rack PN alternates.JPG (22.61 KiB) Viewed 3463 times

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 02 Sep 2017, 15:39

Quick update. Careful inspection of the rack shows witness marks from the PO's inner tie rod replacement job. Dr.Dan was right, you NEED to use the Volvo special tool 9997020 to hold the rack itself as you apply torque to remove and install the inner tie rod.

See picture below and the ensuing damage to the rack inner housing if you don't. Look at bright spots on the housing above and below the rack teeth. This is deformation of the housing because of improper tie rod service procedures.

: IMG_1733.JPG (1.67 MiB) Viewed 3447 times

By the way, I think I found the source of heat shield rattle when accelerating at ~3200rpm. The rack heat shield is bent and has been contacting the exhaust. There's a hole worn into the shield!

: IMG_1727.JPG (2.02 MiB) Viewed 3447 times

Post by **oragex** » 02 Sep 2017, 18:00

The lower coupler was known to seize causing hard steering. However you may easily check yours, if it moves easily it may not need replaced. This part may get stuck on the rack, if it does, it may be easier to undo the coupler from the steering column (on bolt), then remove the rack altogether with the coupler on it.

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 04 Sep 2017, 13:32

Update, suspension R&R completed. Replaced the following parts:

LCA, Lemforder 3497601, 3497501
Lower ball joint, Lemforder 2555002
Sway bar drop links, Lemforder 2555302
inner tie rods, Lemforder 2681801
Outer tie rods, Lemforder 2667702, 2667602
Rack and Pinion bellows, Lemforder 3024901
front brake rotors, Bosch quiet cast 52011348
front brake pads, Bosch quiet cast semi metallic BP794
Rebuilt half shafts. These axles have 126k miles on them and the joints were perfect. Rebuilt them with Rein 272441 boot kit.
(not suspension but replaced this too) Vacuum booster switch, Volvo 31400692

Looking good eh?

: IMG_1746.JPG (1.88 MiB) Viewed 3326 times

Not replaced, and still quite problematic, the steering rack

I'm impressed by these Lemforder parts. The rubber boots are nice and thick, they are manufactured well; welds are beautiful, castings are high quality and the machining is perfect. Steel parts are plated with some type of Zinc coating, and include all the hardware! The lower ball joint kit even includes the half shaft retaining bolts (volvo 30640878). The bolts have thread-locking compound pre-applied. The nuts have pinch-style interference threads. Really nice kit.

Some notes about this job.
You'll need a full complement of sockets and wrenches from 10mm - 21mm. Ratcheting box end wrenches would help, especially 17mm, 18mm, 21mm. Will need some clamps and a long pry bar, torque wrench, breaker bar. Will also need an odd-ball 7mm hex if you're doing brakes, to remove the caliper slide pins. Will need T40 and T30 Torx for the Lemforder drop links.

My brake dust shield (Volvo 30760816, 30860817) both have fatigue cracks at the top bolt. Meh. They don't make noise. Will fit a thin large washer there later.

: IMG_1738.JPG (1.75 MiB) Viewed 3326 times

CV axle rebuild turned out nice, and the center bearing was still in excellent shape, as were the stub shafts. Some surface rust was cleaned up with 600 & 1200 grit wet sand, to a high polish. A little anti-sieze on the splines and a thin coat of grease on the seal surfaces and it's good to go. Did not replace the seals in the transmission (6483112, 9495018, 2x 8632036), these were refreshed 46k miles ago

: IMG_1743.JPG (1.84 MiB) Viewed 3326 times

: IMG_1744.JPG (1.71 MiB) Viewed 3326 times

: IMG_1742.JPG (1.35 MiB) Viewed 3326 times

I've heard a lot of fuss about how hard it is to replace the lower ball joints. This was pretty easy. A cold chisel and some screwdrivers as wedges, came right out. Use the bolts to line the new part back up and tap it back in with a cold chisel or drift or other thin wacking instrument of your choice.

: IMG_1734.JPG (2.04 MiB) Viewed 3326 times

: IMG_1735.JPG (2.05 MiB) Viewed 3326 times

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 04 Sep 2017, 14:02

The new lower control arm bushings are stiff! If you can depress the LCA by hand to remove the knuckle from the strut - your bushings are shot. To compress the LCA sufficiently I used some 2" C-clamps to secure a large pry-bar. Reef on that to get the knuckle bolts back it.

: IMG_1737.JPG (1.93 MiB) Viewed 3319 times

: IMG_1736.JPG (1.71 MiB) Viewed 3319 times

Caliper slide pins look to be in excellent shape, cleaned and reused them. Caliper bracket cleaned up nicely. Interesting to see the Cr6 (?) plating has changed color by temperature.

: IMG_1739.JPG (3.42 MiB) Viewed 3319 times

@ 173k miles, and untold hundred thousand brake applications, the caliper bracket is at end of life. See the wear patterns from the pads, this will impede free motion of the pads and cause premature and uneven disc wear, which usually manifests itself as pedal pulsation. Given these are $55 from Volvo they are now on the repair list. BTW, many other manufacturers use disposable stamped metal slides exactly because of this wear issue, Volvo is missing the boat here.

: IMG_1740.JPG (2.28 MiB) Viewed 3319 times

: IMG_1741.JPG (1.47 MiB) Viewed 3319 times

When I replace the rack, will also swap out rear hydraulic engine mount 30778951. The rubber was starting to crack.
Will replace rack heat shield 30793300

Speaking of the &(@!*%&# rack, it's hard to find these! So far my options are:
$950 - $1300 from Volvo for a 36050359.
$280 + core for a BBB-industries PS-361952 from Napa. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PNB361952
$145 + core for an A1-Cardone 262532 from RockAuto.
$340 + core for a Maval 18480.93282M from AutohausAZ. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pn.asp ... gLeQfD_BwE

Slim picking for a used direct replacement on ebay.
ACdelco used to stock these remans, but no more.
There are a few Detroit Axle remans which looks like it might work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Power- ... zs&vxp=mtr
Erie looks to have a couple.

Am heavily leaning to a reman vs used, to ensure I'll get an undamaged one with pre-installed inner tie rods. Stealership is just too expensive, and risk of a used one being improperly serviced is just too high IMHO. I don't really want to buy special service tool 9997020 just for this one job.

Opinions please: BBB from Napa, A1-cardone , Maval, or Detroit axle?

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 04 Sep 2017, 22:52

Anyone heard of this TSB 6421?

STEERING NOISE, YOKE ADJUSTMENT. KNOCKING, THUMPING, OR CLICKING NOISE MAY BE HEARD FROM THE STEERING. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10020113 )

I can't find specific info about it, and don't have an Alldatadiy subscription.

After watching some informative videos about the inner configuration of a steering rack and pinion I'm beginning to wonder if the issue is a loose yoke. See the cartoon starting @ 2:40.

If the pinion bearings are bad, or the yoke is somehow loose then the rack would exhibit exactly these symptoms I'm experiencing. Perhaps the fix is as simple as increasing the preload on the yoke spring? It still boggles the mind it doesn't leak oil considering how much movement there is between the rack and the housing.

Post by **oragex** » 05 Sep 2017, 07:20

Good job! Can you look underneath the new Lemforder control arms, are these stamped in someway?

Totally agree about the caliper brackets, the wear on the pad/bracket surface is too much even by 120K miles. Random guess, maybe these brakes were one of the few Ford parts on P2's

steering rack or just inner tie rods? 2005 S60 173k miles

Re: steering rack or just inner tie rods? 2005 S60 173k miles