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How to Xc60 T6 brake vacuum pump rebuild kit

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials for the groundbreaking new Volvo S60 2011+, V60 2015+ XC60 2010-2018.
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » XC60 T6 Vacuum Pump Rebuild - DIY Steps w/ Photos
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clinto
Posts: 6
Joined: 2 September 2014
Year and Model: xc60 2010
Location: Australia

Volvo Repair Database How to Xc60 T6 brake vacuum pump rebuild kit

Post by clinto »

Vacuum pump on my wife’s 2010 xc60 T6 was leaking. It had done about 66,000kms. My wife got a quote from Volvo, which was $1500 for a complete pump (they wouldn't do a rebuild kit even though Volvo sell one) or $650 for a rebuild by an independent Swedish shop. Or $80 for a rebuild kit from the Internet. So obviously I started searching for how to’s.

I thought I would post up this write-up, as I couldn't find any real detailed write-ups on removal and installing the rebuild kit.

Time:

total time was about 3.5hrs. But in that time I did an oil change, installed new spark plugs, installed new wipers and treated some rust on the bolts in my battery box. So probably I could do it in 90mins next time…

Tools:

you don't really need a lot of tools. I used the following:

7mm socket
8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets and ring spanners
couple of torx bits (I cant remember the sizes)
ratchets and extension bars
side cutters
dental pick (to remove o-rings)

Removal Procedure

I didn't remove that much. There is a series of pictures for an s60 where the mechanic removed the entire intake pipe over the top of the motor. I didn't go that far. Basically my removal steps were as follows:

1 remove the air box cover.

Torx bit plus a 7mm socket to remove the hose clamp. Unclip the sensor plug and cut the cable tie.

2 remove the battery and the battery box

10mm for the battery connectors and the hold down on the battery
10mm socket to remove the 5 bolts on the bottom of the battery box.
To remove the battery box, you need to squeeze the top sides at the back in to get them past the main cover up by the windscreen. Pull it up from the front and out.

3 Remove the 3 brackets over the alternator, and top of the engine.

Start by removing the clips holding the positive battery lead on
Then the clip holding the power steering pipe
Take off the top bracket with the 2 I think `0mm bolts
Remove the other bracket on the back side of the main bracket 2 x 12mm bolts
Remove the big bracket. 12mm and 1 14mmm bolt. Just remove the bolts, the alternator will not move.
There is a cable tie holding a cable onto the main bracket. It's a little difficult to get the bracket out. I just rotated it around and pulled it out the way.

4 remove the air box base.

I removed it more to allow a bit more access to clean up the oil. You don't really need to remove it though. But if you do, it pretty much pulls straight up, it is just held in with some clips. You then remove the intake pipe from behind the front grill.

5 remove the pump

2 x 12mm bolts is all that is holding it on. Once you have removed the bolts, you just need to wiggle it out. A bit of oil will leak out of it so get a rag underneath.

6 pulling the pump apart

it has a bit of oil in it and it will leak out as you start tilting it around on the bench. Mine was quite dirty. I cleaned up the outside first with some turps.

It is a little difficult to get apart, as you cannot lay it down. I put some wooden blocks either side to support it.

Remove the torx bolts and the cover comes off. Remove the large o-ring. I cleaned up behind the oring with some turps as it had a build up of burnt oil behind it. Similarly on the back side of the cover. You will need to clean that up too.

The difficult bit was the black plug on the end. You need to squeeze from both sides. Have a look at the replacement part to work it out. It would be easier with a second set of hands.

The new one just presses in.

The smaller o-ring fits on the backside. The dental pick helps with getting the old one off.

Bolt it all back together and then clean up the mating faces.


Reinstall

To reinstall it you need to line it up and wiggle it to get it back in.

Then it’s just the reverse of the removal.

Hope it helps.

User avatar
clinto
Posts: 6
Joined: 2 September 2014
Year and Model: xc60 2010
Location: Australia

Post by clinto »

Things are better with pictures :) Excuse the bad iphone photos though. I have a factory unit where I did the work and I left my camera on the kitchen bench.
IMG_0058.jpg
The offending item with the airbox cover removed. I’m not sure why mine has a blue mark on it. We are the only owner.
IMG_0059.jpg
Battery box removed
IMG_0060.jpg
These are the 3 brackets you need to remove. You can see the pump in the background. There is 1 large bracket that has the other two bolted to it. You remove the first one from the top front side 1st. then the smaller backside one and then the large one.
IMG_0063.jpg
the large bracket still before removal. You can see the power steering pipe that has been moved out of the way
IMG_0064.jpg
The big bracket rolled over and moved out the way. I had cut the cable tie you can see.
Attachments
IMG_0066.jpg

User avatar
clinto
Posts: 6
Joined: 2 September 2014
Year and Model: xc60 2010
Location: Australia

Post by clinto »

IMG_0069.jpg
Pump removed
IMG_0069.jpg
backside of the pump prior to cleaning
IMG_0070.jpg
Rebuild kit contents. Not a lot for your $80. But cheaper than $450 for a whole new pump. Although value for money??
IMG_0071.jpg
Backside o-ring
IMG_0072.jpg
backside o-ring removed
IMG_0073.jpg
Pump open and o-ring removed. The paddle in the bottom left sits in the slot and spins around.


Sorry about the lack of photos, my hands were dirty and I didn't really take any pics towards the end.
Attachments
IMG_0068.jpg

User avatar
clinto
Posts: 6
Joined: 2 September 2014
Year and Model: xc60 2010
Location: Australia

Post by clinto »

Looking at the photos now. I think mine was leaking from the rear o-ring, and perhaps the black fitting. I did notice that when I spun the pump the black fitting would move in and out. However, when I installed the new one it didn't move at all.

Also the the blue mark is a little perplexing. I'm wondering if it was volvo service guys here. I had it serviced by volvo up until it went out of warranty. After that, I have done it myself. It was the first service I did myself that I noticed a slight oil leak. So I'm wondering if they picked it up but didn't bother to notify us of it.

joelq
Posts: 33
Joined: 13 June 2011
Year and Model: 2004 XC90 2.5T ~135K
Location: Frisco, TX (Dallas, TX suburb)

Post by joelq »

Thanks so much for posting this. I’m gearing up to do this on my wife’s XC60 and your write-up will be a tremendous help.

Thanks!

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theWIFES_S70
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Joined: 24 July 2015
Year and Model: 1998 S70 base
Location: Queens, New York
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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

I wonder why the pump is so expensive. I did this job a year ago on my brother's Mini Cooper (09, N/A) and the piece, new, was around $80 bucks. (Only $10 for a BMW o-ring.) And that was for a Piersburg-branded piece which was the same exact piece as the OE BMW on the Mini. Job was really easy, too. Is LUK known for selling really pricey parts?
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K

Tractoman
Posts: 19
Joined: 1 December 2009
Year and Model: 850GLT 1997
Location: Nor Cal

Post by Tractoman »

Nice write up. I did my wife's 2010 and it is pretty easy. Most of my time was spent cleaning the pump and surrounding area where oil was leaking.
Thanks,
Mike
1997 850GLT
2010 XC60 T6

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