2004 s60r misfire dead cylinder

[swedehast]

Thanks all,

I'm in process of pulling ( at least ) the head.

I put in all new plugs and also swapped them when I swapped igniters and injectors. I did a quick and dirty " compression test " by holding a radiused rubber rod against the seat for the plug, when cranking no push even against just finger pressure. My aircraft mechanic would let me use his borescope, but at this point it's academic. At the very least the head has to come off.

I've called Clearwater about the head and will most likely go with them on a head rebuild if that's all I need. Guy there ( Clearwater ) did say dropped seats are NOT unusual, has seen many of them (LOT's of Dodge heads ).

I will get the head off and all will become clear.

In that regard, I have to search this site for good procedure. Does the cyl. head cover ALSO lock down the cams ? ( aka early Honda inline 4's ). VADIS for head removal ?

Thanks again, if you've ( all ) not been on other DIY sites, this site is CLEARLY the most astute, helpful and complete

[erikv11]

While you have the head off I'd do the PCV, consider if the timing is due.

It is really important to use quality valve stem seals on the head job, the aftermarket ones may not last 6 months. I don't know what Clearwater is using the days but if it was me I would buy the seals from Volvo and take them and the head to a local machine shop I can trust. Take the cam cover too, it is so much easier if they do the cleaning.

Yes, the cam cover locks them down. Cover is most easily pulled with a locking tool but you can get by without it.

There were some encyclopedic write-ups for a head swap (Tracey's True Soaps was the gold standard, fortunately I have a hard copy printout) but sadly most of those have gone away in favor of videos. I haven't looked through Robert's video on pulling a head but it is probably good, it is here How to rebuild the head of most 5 cylinder volvos except your 04 has VVT. For sure look at Vadis, I would give it a look but can't now it's on the other computer.

[swedehast]

Thanks Erik

I spent a couple hours pulling parts, tagging and bagging. I'm going slow because the "R" was mostly an extra, so no-one is short a ride. Pulled the whole front off, going to all new hoses, PVC etc and getting everything out of the way to make it easier to get at all the bolts. It looks like I can do everything pretty much from the top. I've looked over a few cyl. head r&r procedures / videos. I've done a half a dozen timing on these 5 cyl engines, but none had the VVT so that part at first glance seems a little confusing.

Tomorrow I hope to have the manifolds off and ready to pull the head, need to make a jig for the cams, still not quite clear on the VVT pully's on the reinstall. Up to this point not really a whole lot different than the other models we've had, intake and ex castings are nicer.

At this point I guess my " worst case " would be having the cams move a little on the removal. But one of the videos simply shows the three cuts in each cam two each on both in and ex all lined up horizontally with the split in the cases. The third cut on the intake cam end forty five or so degrees above the vertical and the third cut on the exhaust cam forty five degrees or so below the vertical for the CPS

So my question is, since in the videos and tutorials it mentions that on reinstall, the timing marks on the timing wheels ( cam ) likely will NOT line up to the original factory references ( any longer ) AFTER setting the VVT pully's ???? I'm not clear on this concept.

[erikv11]

Yes, you can do everything from the top. The turbo gets in the way a little bit, but you can just leave the exhaust manifold in the car. Cooling hoses while you are at it is a great idea, I like to especially do the lower rad hose because it is so easy to get at now. Get new head bolts too, those are stretch torque.

I also still haven't done any VVT jobs, only read about them, wait for someone more experienced to chime in. I can say it will be easier with a cam lock tool, again good move.

[abscate]

User F250 wrote the definitive guide on CVVT cam setup. Don't fear the reaper, you are doing exactly the same thing as a solid cam you just have to get the cam hub to cam position correct before aligning the marks.

When you are all done, you will turn the engine over by hand, And check the marks align, exactly like a solid hub car, and then you KNOW ITS RIGHT.

It is much easier with a cam lock tool, but throw out the cheap bolts on the eBay one and replace with good 88 bolts

A couple of people here have snapped these off in their cams

Edited to correct user name for CVVT writeup

[swedehast]

Thanks Erik and Abscate

Update and some questions.
I spent the weekend pulling everything but the head, so all the ancillaries are bagged and tagged.
Along the way it seemed that what I was running into indicates this things probably been apart before.
Ex only 2 exhaust manifold nuts ,,,,,, hmmmm

But the crux of the things are ( wait for the cam lock tool coming from IPD ), yes multiple things

I've gotten most everything out of the way, exhaust manifold bolts off,

1) Does the turbo just need a gentle pry to move it away from the head when I lift ?

I pulled off the " front " ? plastic shroud around the timing gears in order to recheck/ confirm gear wheel marks line up AND reference the crankshaft marks and ????? On my 95 Twgn and 96 850 R the timing gears had a plastic plate ( on the cam cover side ) " behind " the cam timing gears with notches cut where the timing gear marks pointed at, nice and simple. This engine doesn't have that, only the cover / shroud ( "outside " ) the timing gears/ belt / idler / etc. There aren't any " conspicuous " marks that I can see. At some point someone kind of smeared some " sharpie " black on the cam cover ( behind )but even they weren't very tidy or consistent, so

2 ) Am I supposed to be seeing some timing marks on the shroud from " behind " ( looking from the cam position sensor ) ?

In THAT regard in just setting things up " the old fashion way " I rotated the crank clockwise until the #1 cyl TDC firing ( easy to confirm ( also ) because at that point you can see and feel the valves working. So here the piston tdc, each reference mark on the timing gear wheels were pretty vertical. Actually the IN gearwheel mark was vertical reference the " block ", the EX gearwheel was not quite. At the rear of the cams the cut slots in the IN cam found the two continuous slots EXACTLY horizontal and in perfect alignment with the split in the cases, the third slot at or near 45 degrees above the horizontal, just like the tutorials Ive scanned. The EX slots found the horizontal cuts not aligned ( quite ) with the split of the cases but in fact slightly 5 - 10 degrees below the horizontal and the third slot near 90 degrees down from horizontal.

I'm not sure the " cam locking tool " would fit into the horizontal slots if exactly 180 degrees is required across both cams ?

Lastly in viewing down the to the crankshaft ref marks, it seemed I could see on the crank hub gear only one of the teeth with a tiny cut mark at the back of the tooth, but not sure what it was supposed to be pointing at. In tutorials it shows TWO teeth with little cut marks in the rear and they straddle a mark

So it appears the only way to actually " align " the EX marks and cam slots is removing the belt and turning the cam, then locking things up ???? but will this mess up the cam timing later ( upon reassembly of the CVVT hubs ?? ) It seems to me, after watching a few tutorials etc one of the main reasons to lock the cams up is simply so you can get the darn hub bolts off. Other than that, aren't the slots in the cams and #1 TDC firing still the main way to keep things in time ? In other words, I don't see how the " spring loaded " CVVT hubs change the method of basic timing..

Anyway I'm ordering parts and tools and can't go any further till I get pretty sure I can yard the head off and send it to Clearwater, or ?????

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it

[abscate]

The spring loaded cam hubs completely change the setup. If you time it like a solid hub Car it won’t be right.

Go through F150s tutorial until you get what is going on here.

On edit, when you can’t find it look under user F250

[swedehast]

Thank you Abscate

I've spent some time looking over the site but have to ask where I can find " F150's tutorial " ?

Other question is back at the cam position. If I can't get the cam locking tool inserted in the slots, I have to at some point rotate the exhaust cam to make it fit, correct ?

So if that is the case, once I pull the belt, do I rotate the ex cam forward ( twice or almost 720 degrees ? ) or backward 10 degrees to line the slots up ?

And at that point I should be able to proceed in a normal manner ?

Thanks again for your advice

[swedehast]

Abscate

Oboy that was .....only way to say it, dumb LOL Of course I meant 360 degrees mas o menos

[erikv11]

Attn all, notes to self: the awesome vvt timing summary was written by F250.

The latest pdf (rev 2) is about halfway down the thread: viewtopic.php?p=412868#p412868