Messing with P0305 and P1332 codes

t3yf5g · Post by **t3yf5g** » 23 Apr 2018, 23:09

Got another thread going that might be related concerning a P0455 evap leak code? viewtopic.php?f=1&t=85142

Anyhow. Code was thrown when overtaking a car from like 20mph. I am known to put the hammer down (well like 1/2 or 3/4 down) to pass someone, especially getting on the highway. This time was different cause the engine shuddered as I let off the gas and noticed the CEL flashing at me. Car was rough when braking and accelerating with really bad exhaust smell.

Got home and checked codes and got P1332 so started looking into fixes and troubleshooting for that. Topped off oil in case I was low and ran the car and idled pretty rough since it was in high idle but smoothed out when idle dropped to usual ~650 rpm. Checked codes again and got an additional P0305, misfire on number 5 cylinder.

Should I be focusing on the misfire or the cvvt solenoid? Worse fear is that oil pressure might not have been high enough and my cylinder rings are toast. Though I only seen the low oil pressure message couple of times and topped off soon as I was parked (keep oil in the trunk). Best case is coil or injector needs to be replaced?

t3yf5g · Post by **t3yf5g** » 24 Apr 2018, 10:53

Wrong subform! Mods, could you please move to S80 subforum please?

t3yf5g · Post by **t3yf5g** » 25 Apr 2018, 14:38

Tested the coil and looks good so got spark plugs and going to change those since I have the cover off.

Also have the solenoid ordered in case it needs to be replaced after inspection and any cleaning I can do of the current solenoid.

Things are hard to test with the intake tubing off and MAF disconnected. Computer doesn't like it and even stalled one me running it for too long.

Post by **FLXC90** » 26 Apr 2018, 02:08

How is your sludge/varnish/oil ratio in the upper cover? I know my XC90 T-6 grows sludge. Run some seafoam through your motor to clean the crap out of the passages and you may get proper operation back. Also, when was your pcv last serviced? I have a rear main seal leak to attend to because of that. I would go ahead and swap the coil with a known good one, or swap with number 1 or 2 and see if the misfire moves. How fast are you losing oil that it gets to low oil pressure? 1 qt per how many miles?

t3yf5g · Post by **t3yf5g** » 26 Apr 2018, 10:50

Not a lot of sludge/etc and only on the driver side of the engine near the oil filler mouth (I spill when not paying attention to how fast I pour).

I have been on the defensive in my maintenance only addressing issues as they come up and cause my problems. I have not touched the PCV system. Took ownership of the car at 86k from a used dealer who I am sure just did what they needed to make the sale so not 100% confident they did any real preventative service to it.

Did swap coils and ran it, didn't like running without the intake and sensors hooked up didn't notice a real different other then occolatian of the shuddering if that makes sense. Didn't throw any codes at me even after like 5mins of idling and slight revving. I ran it with the coil off the plug and it really didn't like it, even upped and shut off on me. Got my meter on the coil while it ran and was getting voltage readings but for obvious reasons, it would jump around. So the coil looks to be good.

Took the spark plug out and it wasn't soaked or anything, just a fair bit of deposits burned on it looked well used. Have a new set of plugs I will swap out for. Then will connect the intake back up and run it for kicks to see if it is a fouled plug.

As for my oil loss. it seems I can go for about 4 or 5 weeks till I get a low oil pressure message when taking sharp turns at more than a granny's speed. oil seems to leak when hot and right after I top it off then calms down as it cools and oil level drops.

I have a CVVT solenoid coming today that I will change after I try the new spark plugs. I don't like throwing parts at a problem without diagnosing what it actually is. While easier to do with my 85 Ford truck, not super easy to do with the Volvo.

t3yf5g · Post by **t3yf5g** » 28 Apr 2018, 18:42

Coil #5 ended up being bad. Should just take the computer's word for it...

Replaced the CVVT solenoid. Though turns out the one I thought I lucked out on with Amazon prime was for the intake and not the exhaust. Odd since I don't have an intake solenoid but I do see the castings for one but not machined. Any other T6 models have both?

All is well, can even make it to redline in 1st without the engine cutting out. Calling it good.

Post by **June** » 29 Apr 2018, 15:47

t3yf5g wrote: ↑26 Apr 2018, 10:50 Not a lot of sludge/etc and only on the driver side of the engine near the oil filler mouth (I spill when not paying attention to how fast I pour).

As for my oil loss. it seems I can go for about 4 or 5 weeks till I get a low oil pressure message when taking sharp turns at more than a granny's speed. oil seems to leak when hot and right after I top it off then calms down as it cools and oil level drops.

Sludge inside the engine is what the post was referring to not on the outside of the engine. These engines with two turbo chargers seem to be hard on oil.

I might point out that if you are getting "low oil pressure" warning you must be running the engine like 6 quarts low! I am assuming you are not aware that if you run the engine with the oil level below the bottom safe line on the dipstick the rings and wrist pins are being destroyed.

If the oil pressure low warning and oil light are on than you are destroying the rest of your engine. So you must keep the level in the safe zone to protect your engine. This is my S80 T6 dipstick and I marked how much oil to add at each XX on the stick. 1/4 quart for each XX. June

t3yf5g · Post by **t3yf5g** » 29 Apr 2018, 16:03

Oh I know what running with no oil does. You can ask my first truck when I was in high school... lol.

I don't let it run to the oil pressure warning before I fill it back up, I check up on it during fuel ups and add in as it needs. I have a 5 quart jug in the trunk (along with water since I have an issue with the upper radiator hose not seating well) I use up. Then a big absorbing pad and board on my garage floor. Oil leak is on my list but going to be a pain tracking it down. Tried looking once before but lost track around the turbos and heat shields.

Post by **June** » 29 Apr 2018, 16:36

t3yf5g wrote: ↑29 Apr 2018, 16:03 Oh I know what running with no oil does. You can ask my first truck when I was in high school... lol.

I don't let it run to the oil pressure warning before I fill it back up, I check up on it during fuel ups and add in as it needs. I have a 5 quart jug in the trunk (along with water since I have an issue with the upper radiator hose not seating well) I use up. Then a big absorbing pad and board on my garage floor. Oil leak is on my list but going to be a pain tracking it down. Tried looking once before but lost track around the turbos and heat shields.

My husband used to build mud trucks as his hobby, that included building big engines to run them. The rings and the pins that hold the pistons (wrist pins) to the rod are oiled by splashing. When the oil goes below the bottom line on the dipstick, the oil is too low to properly splash lubricate the cylinders and wrist pins. That will wear the rings and wrist pins quickly due to lack of oil for lubrication.

I understand some companies (like VW) are fitting oil sprayers for this porpoise, but this does not apply for our engines. June