Cam seal cost Topic is solved

Post by **June** » 02 Jul 2018, 20:38

redc70 wrote: ↑02 Jul 2018, 18:28 Well, because I did not know that is what a dealer would charge? Which is why I asked if that was a legitimate price in the first place. Dealer or indie.

Here is my receipt for my timing belt. The Volvo belt kit comes with the seals. Notice my dealer charged $1399 for the service. June

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 02 Jul 2018, 21:26

Hey thanks for all the advice. Yes, the shop today said all the seals should have been replaced along with the timing belt. I'll check tomorrow with the shop that did the belt and see what they say. Sadly, there is only one guy in town who does European cars and he knows it! I don't think he's honest either as he charged me for an AC relay for the Mercedes but did not put one in, merely wired the posts together. So, I'll either have to go to Houston or see if my usual guy can do it.
Once again, many thanks for the replies!

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Jul 2018, 08:28

For the record, the cam seals should not be leaking at 150k that is unusual for these engines. And changing the front cam seals is not standard at all with a timing belt job. The timing belt kit includes two rollers (one is a tensioner) and a belt, no cam seals are included.

That said, on your car they obviously are leaking and should be changed. The 99 may not have rear cam seals, just the front ones. $1100 for just two cam seals and one timing belt (no other timing path components) is high, even for a dealer.

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 03 Jul 2018, 09:39

Thanks for that erikv11, thats kinda what I thought. I double checked 2 different suppliers for what came in the timing/water pump kit, including my receipt and none of them include the cam seals. Thanks for reaffirming what I thought originally. I will take some things apart and have a good look around later this afternoon. Currently I am wrestling with a 300E window regulator.
Any ideas on why they would leak this early, other than the PCV which seems to not be clogged. Is the glove test sufficient for a determination?
Many thanks!

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Jul 2018, 11:01

The glove test is very reliable, I suspect the PCV is good.

I suppose it is formally possible PCV is clogged and there is so much pressure escaping through the cam seals (and/or elsewhere?) that the glove does not inflate, but I really doubt it. Glove seems almost collapsed in your image, like it should be. I guess you'll know if it inflates once the cam seals are replaced. One speculation is maybe the PCV was abused previously? I don't recall if you posted about the maintenance history. Once an oil seal is breached it is easy for the leak to worsen even if the offending insult is removed.

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 03 Jul 2018, 12:05

Vert little maintenance history for this car except what I've done. My dad bought it because he fell in love with the styling without doing any research. It was in an accident somewhere in time with minimum damage (lol!) I'm just trying to put everything right as far as possible.

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 03 Jul 2018, 14:00

Hello again! I am beginning to feel as though I am a victim of a shops' up-sell! After finishing the Merc, I took the black plastic cam cover off to see how bad the oil leaks were and lo and behold the whole area is dry as a bone! There is no oil at all on the timing belt, the cogs are all dry, no spray on the inside of the cover...anywhere?! The front of the engine (I call the front where the water pump is for reference) has little to no oil on it. Certainly nothing that explains the oil leak that I DO have. I have thought all along that it was the turbo oil line seal.
It the seals WERE bad, would those leaks make themselves known by that whole area covered in oil?
Let me know what your thoughts are please...

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Jul 2018, 14:46

redc70 wrote: ↑03 Jul 2018, 14:00 ... It the seals WERE bad, would those leaks make themselves known by that whole area covered in oil? ...

Bottom line is yes, there would be substantial oil under the plastic t-belt cover. Post up some pics if you want detailed input but it sure sounds like the cam seals are fine - as you would expect for a 150k car. On the other hand, leaky turbo return line is a super common and to-be-expected problem. Sounds like you are closer to tracking down the actual source.

Good on you for not taking the shop's word blindly. And yep, the water pump side is the front of the engine.

redc70 · Post by **redc70** » 03 Jul 2018, 17:17

I'll get some pics tomorrow after the car cools down a bit. Cool car, as hot as it is with the AC on that little temp gauge is pegged right at 3 o'clock!
As soon as I guarantee myself all is well I will mark the topic as solved.
Now about that soft top.....
Thanks for your input.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 03 Jul 2018, 17:58

Couple of items. First 150k on a seal is pretty good in mind. Will they go longer yes, can they fail at 150k yes.

I disagree that once a seal is exposed to excessive pressure it is ruined. That is not how the cam shaft seals in question work. It is a flexible lip and pressure will not harm it once it is resolved. As the lip wears and ages the pressure it can apply to the cam shafts decreases. It is a very light pressure seal by design - so oil pressure from a faulty PCV system will pass through. Once this is resolved it should not leak unless it is on its last legs.

Regarding your problem - look at the front crank shaft seal. On this forum, maybe under one of the other models, the poster had a similar issue and in the end located the issue as the front crank shaft seal (oil pump center seal) as the culprit. Wind blew the oil up and he mistakenly thought his leak was on the top. Replaced the seal which was improperly installed and I believe resolved the issue.

It was suggested also looking at the oil cooler and filter housing as other suspect areas.

Cam seal cost Topic is solved

Re: Cam seal cost