What kind of sealant for the cam cover?

[TeddyBoo]

I use a roller too , leaves a smoother finish and I trust it more than my finger haha

[prwood]

IMHO, the marks are useful for when you’re taking the timing belt off but not the sprockets. If you *are* taking the sprockets off, you’re going to have to reset their position anyway, so the marks aren’t really useful then.

[BlackBart]

If you *are* taking the sprockets off, you’re going to have to reset their position anyway, so the marks aren’t really useful then.

^^ The sprockets off of the hubs, or the sprocket-hub assemblies off of the camshafts?

[BlackBart]

Success! Betty the Volvo runs!

Hope you all had a nice holiday weekend.

Sorry to drag you all through my long repair saga! It's sort of embarrassing. But I tinker with it an hour here and there, make a mistake, go backwards. I've spent a couple of solid days on it and Black Betty is on the street under her own power. Went on an evening jaunt with my wife to test last night, including some freeway, then stopped at an autozone (yes), where they cheerfully scanned the fault codes and printed them out for free. Until I get access to the vida vadas vegas laptop system, that was very convenient.

SO....I started over from scratch with the VVT cam set up. Very concerned that I had turned the engine over by hand with the timing off and not sure how much force it takes to bend a valve. Why even put it together if you've wrecked the head?! Because you have to.

On the crank timing mark, double checked with mirrors and fingers. Cams locked again. Both cam wheels tight to their clockwise stop, then align (always clockwise!) with your upper cover timing marks (maybe fudge a hair short if you think they'll move when you crank down the bolts - mine didn't move at all). Then crank the bolts down to 88 without the pulleys moving (are these bolts stretching and should be replaced?). Check all your marks again. Carefully put the belt on, keeping the crank-to-intake-wheel taut, keeping the cam wheels on their marks, keeping the cam-to-cam relationship straight, then working around your tensioner etc and set up the tensioner correctly. Roll it over by hand twice and check marks. Once you're sure you've got it right, then pull the cam lock, replace the rear seals, and go about reassembling everything.

One mistake I sometimes make is bolting on Assemblies 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 before realizing that Assembly 6 just won't go on there without undoing 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5 again. Ugh. No room for your hands. Cant see to align something. Drop a bolt in an impossible crevasse, requiring the removal, again, of 5, 4, 3, and 2. That electrical connector that clicks in from the underside of the turbo inlet hose at the back of the engine - argh! After you put all the vac hoses on and can't reach it. The turbo inlet hose should probably go on about last, and do the electrical connector first before it's clamped. The banjo bolt under the intake, which will not go on with the alternator 1/4" away unless the intake is still loose. Upside down and blind. When you drop the crush washers, they disappear into the blackness and are copper so your magnet is worthless. Intake comes back off, again.

So if I had to do this again I would make far fewer stupid mistakes. Like...put the serp belt the correct way around the tensioner and it's much much easier to get on...

I would really avoid using a crows foot on the bottom left intake bolt, as it's a sloppy fit and I tend to over tighten things. As soon as I felt it slip and round a bit, I pulled the thermostat housing off the block, pulled the intake (again), and replaced that bolt. Someday it will have to come off again and I'm not fightin' that bolt. So a wobble socket is probably the right tool there.

Cheap hose clamps are a pain in the ass and chew up your hoses and don't fit a driver socket. Buy the good ones.

I put all new injector o-rings in, as well as the two dipstick o-rings. Replaced the PCV system and vac hoses to the turbo.

I have the funky old style fuel rail connector with the green buttons and the flimsy little clip. Clip shot off and bounced across the floor. Found it the next day. All is good. Doesn't seem like the most solid connection.

Oil topped off (I got it warm and then drained it immediately), coolant topped off, everything plugged back in......the moment of truth!..........dead dead battery. Zero volts, 5 years old. Another $140 trip.

OK, it turns over and starts! But it's missing badly. I'm very worried about the bent valve possibility, but let's not panic yet. I started checking coil packs with #1, plugged it back in, and it ran! Too easy? Very late, so next morning started right up, missing badly again. Fussed again with the coils and pulled #1 plug. Pretty new, BERU. Never heard of them, but # cross-references. I learn the Porsche guys love BERU (who knew?). Cleaned and gapped plug 1. I took some resistance readings on the first two coils but they don't mean much to me.

Started right up and continued to run smoothly for our drive last night.

Codes are maybe stored said the autozone person, meaning maybe it's not doing them anymore and these will clear? I've never used a code reader.

P0300 random multiple misfires - this is probably the initial rough start-up with no fuel in the system.
P2301 Coil A Primary control too high - ? means coil 1 is over voltage?
P2304 Coil B same deal.
P0301 Cyl 1 misfire - this is the one that was missing, yes.
P0302 Cyl 2 misfire - I pulled the #2 coil and it stopped firing, so this was me.

These go away if the fault doesn't continue? Or do I disconnect the battery?

Pics!

This much off first attempt. Enuf to bend a valve? I thought so at the time.

Chipped intake slot - careful with that lock tool. Clean out the red anaerobic goop - this is where your cam seal goes.

All back together - this is as close as I could make these. (paint was from me assuming I had to move the sprockets)

88 ft-lbs, nothing moved.

[BlackBart]

Cam slots nice and horizontal..

Old marks line up!

I have to keep myself organized. And if I don't know what to do next, I just clean. This engines was a mess.

My work platform to get to the turbo and back of the engine. Sits on rad support and empty air box.

It won't be in there for long, but I've had good luck with NAPA gold, which they say is made by WIX. It's the same filter as the German Mann - it's right there on the box. But, the box says Assembled in Mexico (nothing wrong with that) and the filter element itself says Made in China. All very curious. I'll change it again soon and get a pack of the ipd filters for the shelf. I'm going with Castrol synthetic 5-30 for the winter, and start changing it twice a year regardless of mileage (it won't be much, 5k max)

Anybody want a gently used camshaft with a bolt broken off inside? You could saw off a cylinder, put it in your MGB, and that thing will haul!

BERU 14FR-7DPPUS2
I cleaned this, gap was close, seems normal brown-tan.
Opinions on condition? I know many of you love your factory Volvo plugs. I believe they're the Bosch platinum at half the price - it says Made in Germany, what else would they be?

[BlackBart]

Maybe this should be a new thread, but I'm curious about coil packs, longevity, and how to test.

Videos I saw show 3 prongs at the connector - we have four. BUT...the wiring harness on the engine only has three of those, 1, 2, and 4 locations, looking at the coil.

So going from 2 to 1 with a multimeter, I got these readings. The 6.35 is coil #1, 6.81 is coil 2. 1 is the cylinder that was missing.

I don't know the significance of these numbers and if they're in range. Or it could be the 6.35 is too low and thus the miss at 1.

When have people been changing out their coil packs? When are they failing?

Thanks!

[BlackBart]

My dudes and dudettes -
Guess whose check engine light went off?! No words or messages on the dash, drove it around all day, stereo works.

I am pleased.

Thanks for all your advice.

[prwood]

Woohoo!

I'm pretty sure Black Widow's weapon in Infinity War was just a couple of camshafts, so maybe she would be interested in a replacement?

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[abscate]

There are so many gems of knowledge in that post, Bart, it will have to wait until after work to cover them all

Extensive coil measurements on a thread - I bookmarked it in my 1999 maintenance log on the T5 Nautic Blue in that Forum area. If you pull the coil part number I have added part numbers to a lot of these threads for real easy searching.

Don't worry about those codes, especially since battery sagged. A low battery can cause all kinds of wrong voltage codes, including high voltage!

[BlackBart]

y'know.....I just thought of something...

There is a ground in the coil pack harness, about halfway up the head, about between 2 & 3. I couldn't find a hole to bolt it to, except under the plastic cover lip, and there is at least one other ground in that harness, so I just left it off.

Then the misfiring on startup.

Then I bolted it down at one of the plastic cover bolt holes. Maybe each group of coils has to be grounded separately or they won't fire.....hmm.