Login Register

99 s70 cv boot replacement

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Putting a Value on a T-5R
Post Reply
taiga
Posts: 8
Joined: 2 October 2007
Year and Model:
Location: San Francisco

Volvo Repair Database 99 s70 cv boot replacement

Post by taiga »

I'm going to attempt replacing right side / inner and outer cv boots. I can't find any information on this job anywhere. There doesn't seem to be a Haynes or Chilton book on the 99 s70. I can't find anything at my local library. I've asked my local Volvo dealer about a shop manual, but they aren't interested in selling me one. Is there a good source for how-to and also any special tools that I may want to get before starting the job?

I'd appreciate any help/advice. Am I getting in over my head, if I don't have a manual? :?
Tip the world on it's side and everything loose will end up in LA. FLW

Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14798
Joined: 7 September 2006
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Post by Ozark Lee »

It is often preferable to simply replace the axle, particularly is the boot has been bad for a while and subjected the CV to the elements. I've never had to change one but MIJ always recommends raxles.com. I think they are in the $100.00 a pop range.

MrWinkey over on VS did a write up on the boot change here:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/cv_boot.html

I would highly recommend that you at least pick up a Haynes manual, don't get a Chiltons, get a Haynes.

...Lee
Last edited by Ozark Lee on 02 Oct 2007, 20:25, edited 1 time in total.
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

pfeener
Posts: 634
Joined: 19 January 2006
Year and Model:
Location: Massachusetts
Been thanked: 2 times

Post by pfeener »

Do a search on this forum and on volvospeed.com and you'll get all the info you need.

taiga
Posts: 8
Joined: 2 October 2007
Year and Model:
Location: San Francisco

Post by taiga »

Did a search on matthewsvolvosite but I only found lots of questions from others about cv joints. Am I doing something wrong when searching?

I'll try volvospeed. thanks
Tip the world on it's side and everything loose will end up in LA. FLW

MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Post by MadeInJapan »

If you're going to do it yourself, just replace the axle. Actually raxles is a bit more expensive....about $160 or so after core replacement. So much trouble and so messy to take the joint apart and clean it, repack it and put the boot on. But if you insist, then eeuroparts.com has a good deals on the boots...forgot the name but it's a German manufacturer. Either replacement or repair, the axle has to come out anyway, unless you want to sweat laying under the car with the axle supported as you take it out of the wheel side (assuming it's the outer boot that's ripped) and then take it apart and clean it and repack it (still supported and you on your back), best done with special tools too. Otherwise, it comes out completely and you do it on a bench...still a royal pain.

There are write-ups on Volvospeed but to get the axle out you have to shove two large slotted screw drivers or axle tools into the spline area where the axle enters the transmission and pry the axle out by compressing the circlip. This can be very frustrating if you've never done it before. If they are original axles, there will be adhesive holding the axles in as well making it extra hard. Make sure you get an axle seal too in case you bugger it up when you take the axle out. No need to use adhesive when you put the axle back in unless you just really want to. To get the axle back in, you shove it in until you hear the circlip snap into place. This is all after taking the axle out of the hub and ball joing (control arm or a-arm) off the end of the axle. Anyway, best to see some pictures with descriptions than reading what I've written.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

taiga
Posts: 8
Joined: 2 October 2007
Year and Model:
Location: San Francisco

Post by taiga »

madeinjapan.

Thanks.

This is exactly the kind of info. I needed. Not having done this work before, I wasn't sure what I'd be in for and I figured I'd hold off a few days just to get some input from a knowledgeable source. I'm glad that I waited because this sounds like it really is more than I want to get into right now. I'll be taking it to my trusted garage for this job.

Thanks again.
Tip the world on it's side and everything loose will end up in LA. FLW

pfeener
Posts: 634
Joined: 19 January 2006
Year and Model:
Location: Massachusetts
Been thanked: 2 times

Post by pfeener »

If you're going to have it done, the only method that makes sense is to replace the axle. The extra labor you would pay to have the boot done would cost as much as just swapping the whole axle.

mr_dave
Posts: 11
Joined: 27 August 2007
Year and Model:
Location: Boston

Post by mr_dave »

MadeInJapan,
Are you saying that a circlip needs to be compressed before the axel assembly can be removed from the transmission? I've replaced the CV joint/axel assembly on other cars and the axel was easily pulled out of the transmission without any trouble. Does my 850T automatic have a circlip that retains the axel in the tranny?

I looked at the 850 manual and it doesn't mention a circlip to remove the axel but it does talk about a circlip to service the CV joint. If this is true, when I replace the whole axel assembly I won't have to fool with the circlip. Is this correct?

Sorry for the repeated questions. Trying to make sure I can do this job without to many !%@*&^#'s.

Thanks,
Mr_dave

pfeener
Posts: 634
Joined: 19 January 2006
Year and Model:
Location: Massachusetts
Been thanked: 2 times

Post by pfeener »

The LH side has a cir clip, but it's nothing you have to compress or remove. It works the same as all the other cars you've worked on. You need to apply enough pressure with a pry bar to overcome the clip holding the axle. The RH side has no clip. Once the intermediate bearing cap is removed the axle will slide right out.

MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Post by MadeInJapan »

Thanks for the clarification. I guess I shouldn't have said "compress the cir clip," but you do have to give the axle enough force to overcome it on the left side (driver's side for those of us in the U.S.). The other side is a piece of cake to get out.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post