S60 - Door Handle- Really? Replace the whole panel? Topic is solved

[vtl]

Too invasive. Really, duct tape and a two drops of super glue is all you need

[draser]

If you can't fix it with duct tape it can't be fixed. Sorry, I had to throw that out there..

[vtl]

I did that, it works. Had exactly same situation like in last chrism's picture.

[NoSnowHere]

I just fixed this door handle issue on my 2002 V70XC (aka XC70 Cross Country.)

I purchased a remanufactured handle a assembly via eBay (about $40-50 USD January 2016 -- included shipping.)

Tips:

First, BE CAREFUL when disassembling everything. These cars are getting to the age where ALL of the plastic parts are becoming brittle. Personally, the plastic "base" for the bottom bolt of the door-pull is a long, then, plastic part. When I attempted to remove the screw, it literally ripped/snapped the plastic (even with the tip of the torq screw.) There's really no way to avoid these types of collateral damage. Just try to minimize it.

Second, if you do an Internet search for the V70 door trim, you can probably find the Volvo-sponsored diagrams that explain how to remove/replace ALL of this stuff! They even talk about the metal retaining clips that I will discuss below.

Once the door panel is completely removed from the car, I took in into the house (better lighting, and protection from scratches. e.g. I set it face-down on my sofa to perform the repairs.)

Removing the black inner door latch assembly from the car is a bit challenging. BEFORE you remove this black assembly, you will either:
1.) Want to already have new circular metal "keepers" to use for reassembly; or
2.) My new door handle assembly included short pan-head SCREWS (instead of those stupid metal clips.)
Whichever way you go, make sure you have them ready BEFORE you remove the black part from the door. Else, you will be doorless for a while...

To remove the metal clips, the Volvo dealer's instructions say that you are supposed to pry-up on one side of the metal clip, then CUT them off with a pair of diagonal snips. Personally, I just used a flat-head screwdriver to pry them off. For the ones that are open/easy to access, use a sharp, but broad-headed flat-head screwdriver. The fat width of the head will provide enough leverage to twist it, and pry it up the full length of the plastic shaft. The recessed metal clips are a bit more challenging. For these, I used a sharp, but NARROW flat-head screwdriver, with a long shaft -- so you can reach down into those little holes, and dig the tip of the screwdriver behind the edge of the metal tabs. Then, use the length of the screwdriver as leverage to pry the metal tab up/out of the hole. BOTH of these metal tabs broke during this process, which made it easier to then grasp them with a pair of needle-nosed pliers, and pull them out the rest of the way.

The black handle assembly seemed to be spot-clued (maybe via just a hut glue gun) to the door? It wasn't SERIOUSLY/permanently glued to the door. I didn't have to use tools to pry the black assembly away. I just rocked it gently with my hands until it slowly broke free along the edge -- working my way all the way from one side, to the other.

Note: The new black assembly needed some minor "mods."
First, where the tweeter mounts, there was a little shiny/metal part to the tweeter (resistor or something?) In my model year, the old door handle base was notched to accommodate for this part. So, I just used a Dremmel tool to grind-down this plastic a bit on this new part, to make a similar notch. (easy.)

Second, the tweeter has a small alignment pin/nipple close to where the cables connect to it. On the part I received, the hole in the black plastic base/assembly wasn't properly aligned. Note: I don't think this step (and the pin/nipple) is really necessary, because the tweeter is held into proper position via clips around the whole thing. So, you could probably just cut-off that little nipple? But, I wanted to keep things looking as factory/original as possible, so I used a small drill bit to wobble-out the hole in the new plastic assembly, so it would accommodate the nipple/tip.

If you are going to use the short-screws that came with the new part, then you need to nip-off most of the plastic alignment shafts that the metal clips were attached to. You want these to become flat/flush with the new part. Just dry-fit it, and make some sort of mark/scratch on a few of them, so you get an idea of how much you need to remove. Then, pull the latch assembly back off of these alignment shafts, so you can nip them off with the tool of your choice. (I just used a sharp/decent pair of diagonal snips.) But, you could probably use some sort or razor blade, or maybe even the Dremmel tool, too.

Then, simply reassemble (using the screws, instead of the metal clips.) You want a TIGHT/SECURE fit. If the black part still wobbles when you reassemble it, then you probably didn't cut enough length off of the plastic alignment shafts. Note: These are the mounting shafts/backs to the door trim. So, if your trim is damaged, this is the IDEAL time to replace it, too!

Everything goes back fairly normal/usual thereafter.

Hope this helps. The Chinese parts aren't perfect. But, they are good enough!

Peace.

[chrism]

I was at the P-n-P this past weekend for "half price weekend". I toyed with the idea of taking home a couple extra door panels just for this reason. I didn't do it as I can hardly navigate through my garage as it is. I'll probably be sorry I didn't grab them.

[Geno9707]

Hello I had the same problem with my v70 same set up as a s60.. I was able to order a handle at eBay.. here is the link.. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2461838491

Better than buying a whole panel got the whole job done in 30 minutes..

[cn90]

Not sure if the S60 setup is the same like my 2005 XC90, but the fix in the XC90 is drilling the holes + single zip tie:

viewtopic.php?t=72385

[bas85]

Ive also did the macgyver fix

if it looks stupid and it works its not stupid haha

[abscate]

Not sure if the S60 setup is the same like my 2005 XC90, but the fix in the XC90 is drilling the holes + single zip tie:

viewtopic.php?t=72385

Drilling the stop crack hole is important in plastic! Find the end of the crack and relief the stress by drilling it out

A bread clip would fit perfectly as agussett plate to bridge the repair with SuperGlue (Tm?). Bread clips have been obsoletedfrom ACrepairs by zip ties of course.

[Soon]

Wow, thanks to all, especially seventy1. I just repaired door handle of my 2004 V70 using the method of his "C" keeper glued in over the broken tabs. Instead of a piece of aluminum, I fashioned a piece of steel hanger strap & glued it in place with JB Weld. Unfortunately no photos, my hands were full of glue! Thanks so much. As of now, June 2021, this would have cost me most of $6-$700 at the Volvo dealer. My cost: Ziltch !!!! Thanks all of you for pointing me in the right direction!