1998 V70 GLT 19T Build

Post by **matthew1** » 08 Jan 2020, 22:27

Music intensifies...

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 08 Jan 2020, 22:35

matthew1 wrote: ↑08 Jan 2020, 22:27 Music intensifies...

Indeed

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 12 Jan 2020, 21:34

FINALLY got it running smoothly tonight!

I had some issues with it running rough, and after Calvin (Sovvagn Motorwerks, the tuner) adjusted the cold start program, it eventually smoothed out. I spent over an hour on the phone with Calvin getting my laptop set up to actually flash the updated tune file, then getting it to communicate with the car, but eventually it took it. My junk CH340 VAG-COM KKL cable was really slow to respond. A true FTDI chip KKL cable is highly recommended here.

I was able to take it out and take some logs to send over, and he's going to review them and make adjustments as needed. I have a feeling I'll have to mess with the cam timing a little bit, but other than that it feels good. Pulls real nice in the higher revs!
I had a bolt temporarily RTV'd in the fitting for the SAS check valve pipe bung, and it scared the crap out of me when it blew out during a hard 20 PSI pull. I was afraid it was something internal when I heard a pop and something hit the car from underneath, then thought a charge piping coupler blew off, then I realized it was revving fine and felt good otherwise. I pulled over and once I heard the louder exhaust, I remembered how I plugged that and was extremely relieved!

For some reason, I couldn't get it to start earlier. It was cranking and cranking, then hitting a dead spot. Checked fuel, good (actually a LOT of fuel, plugs were soaked and so were the pistons), spark was there, compression was good... couldn't figure it out. Eventually after cranking and cranking, it cleared out. For some reason it flooded real bad yesterday after the last time I started it. I only ran it for a minute, and it reeked of gas. Fortunately that cleared up!

Here are some random pics... iPd cam tool is fiddly to use, just make sure you align everything with the cam locker from the rear, make sure you know where the iPd tool has to be positioned to be at the 0 mark, and make adjustments carefully. It's REALLY easy to knock the pulley out of alignment, so be very careful.

It also didn't help that the cheapo timing belt tensioner was giving me hell... I ended up having to pull an INA tensioner off one of the motors in my garage to use instead. Set up nicely the first time, way easier than the ECCPP junk! Please, DO NOT USE CHEAP TIMING COMPONENTS! This is one of those crucial areas where you do NOT want to cheap out. Don't be tempted by the savings... think to yourself... $60 savings today, or $2,000 savings in 6 months? Cylinder heads aren't cheap to rebuild. Believe me, it's not worth it.
The parts here in this pic (which are for my 2000 S70 GLT, I may post a little thread on that) are the only ones you should be using. Continental or Gates Racing belts are good substitutes, but the INA pulleys and Aisin water pump are the only ones I would use.

S90 MAF in place with ME7 intake elbow. All that was missing in the full engine pic was the ECU intake hose... which needs to be replaced.

Post by **matthew1** » 13 Jan 2020, 05:39

Post by **volvolugnut** » 13 Jan 2020, 14:40

VROOOM! Any estimates on new tuned HP?
volvolugnut

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 13 Jan 2020, 14:55

Honestly I'm not sure. Should be in the 300ish range.

Post by **abscate** » 13 Jan 2020, 19:10

June and I are on our third lap around the world so even with our more frequent pitstops you are faR behind us..

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 13 Jan 2020, 19:38

This one should catch up soon... my cousin is already 2 laps ahead of you in his T5!

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 14 Jan 2020, 22:12

She went home tonight! I flashed the final tune (for now) earlier today, but we still have some troubleshooting to do with the boost. At this point, Calvin suggested the MAF is not reading correctly. I also think the TCV may be bad as well. It's boosting at around 18-20 PSI at WOT, and while it feels great, the logs are only showing 15 PSI... not good!
The current tune is a little more conservative for now, but once I swap in a new MAF we'll be able to get it to where it needs to be.

Other than that, the car is running and driving very well!

Some bonus pics... this one actually came up in my Google Photos memories from 4 years ago this week. This is when I first discovered the copious amount of RTV that was used on the cam cover... it was a disgusting mess to clean up. Glad I finally finished that job 4 years later

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: IMG_1312.png (461.23 KiB) Viewed 1223 times

And the fancy red Sovvagn Motorwerks ECU!

Also... since I couldn't find this info anywhere... if you delete your SAS and want to go beyond the basic diode (why "delete" something and keep useless components there?) and delete the physical secondary air injection components, you will have a hole in your stock downpipe. I removed EVERYTHING... the pump, check valve, solenoid, and hoses. Connectors just got zip tied out of the way, no need to remove the wiring completely since it's out of sight anyway. (Plus that gets out of control fast.... I did this on my V70R with all the auto trans wiring)
Anyway, the solution to this is a 5/8"-18 bolt. I tried various drain plugs from the auto store, but I eventually needed to bring the broken check valve pipe fitting to the hardware store and see what I could find. I went to plumbing first, but it was surprisingly easy to find the right pitch bolt once I realized I needed to be looking in hardware.
I used a 1 1/2" bolt since that's the shortest they had, but I had to cut it down quite a bit to clear the straight flange downpipe.
You'd think it would be a metric size, but it's not. SAE sizes are foreign to me... I typically only work on European and Japanese cars.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Jan 2020, 01:04

I’m afraid to ask what the little button is for. Does someone I don’t know get an engine code if I push it?

1998 V70 GLT 19T Build

Re: 1998 V70 GLT 19T Build