1998 2.4 Camshafts in 1999 T5
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Re: 1998 2.4 Camshafts in 1999 T5
I copied the Volvo procedure in a recent thread on the timing code you get when it isn’t set right, I’m fighting this one at the moment. ECM-644A is the code
Empty Nester
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- RickHaleParker
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A Universal Camshaft lock can be used on the front in addition to the rear camshaft locks. Keeps the pulleys from drifting as you install the belt and snug down the pulleys.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
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xApprchsNfnty
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I didn't have any struggle getting the belt on the pulleys while keeping them timed and all my timing marks are still lined up. I'm testing leak at TDC on the compression stroke, that means all the valves will have been closed for the adjacent 1/2 revolutions to get there, so if it's a little off time, it shouldn't keep the valves from being totally seated at TDC. Am I right about that? I've also tested for leak as I rotate through TDC too and there's no change on either side which makes me think that at no time during the rotation all the valves are totally seated. There must be some type of obstruction somewhere, I'm wondering about top end now: lifters, springs, etc. I'd like to wait for the endoscope but idle hands will probably have me at least removing the cams/cover before then. But the top of the cylinder walls and pistons are pretty nasty so it might be worth the rebuild just because.
The whole point of this was to get the car ready to sell, I already have it's replacement which also needs some work. And I'd much rather be working on a project that I plan to keep...
The whole point of this was to get the car ready to sell, I already have it's replacement which also needs some work. And I'd much rather be working on a project that I plan to keep...
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xApprchsNfnty
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Uh oh, are the numbers supposed to be on the top when it's at TDC? Everything pictured is on the timing marks.
Edit*
I believe it's correct the way it is, phew!
Intake cam:


Edit*
I believe it's correct the way it is, phew!
Intake cam:


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That intake is ok, but the exhaust is not.The slot is NOT centered in the cam 'circle' so one edge is a diameter, and the other edge is shorter, or a chord (for the math inclined)
The full diameter edge goes on the bottom on the intake, and top on the exhaust.
The full diameter edge has to line up with the seam on the cam cover - you can have to look closely to see that.
Eliminate the phrase "tDC" from timing discussions. None of the marks represent TDC.
When you set the marks on a VVT car for a belt change, unless you go past 1/4 crank turn and return, the VVT cam rears wont right.
The full diameter edge goes on the bottom on the intake, and top on the exhaust.
The full diameter edge has to line up with the seam on the cam cover - you can have to look closely to see that.
Eliminate the phrase "tDC" from timing discussions. None of the marks represent TDC.
When you set the marks on a VVT car for a belt change, unless you go past 1/4 crank turn and return, the VVT cam rears wont right.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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xApprchsNfnty
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'On timing marks,' using TDC is a force of habit. Thanks.
On the exhaust cam, the full diameter chord is on top; that is, the slot on the intake is above center and the slot on the exhaust is below center. Might be hard to see from the pic, but I believe that is accurate. The tool wouldn't have fit otherwise.
I still don't see why rotating a 1/4 is necessary. If I have the cams locked and I pre-load the pulley so that its timing marks line up with the cover, how does rotating it a 1/4 turn make a difference in the end? Looks like its purpose is to be able to make an accurate mark on the head so that it's easier to line back up. But just use the TB cover and it shouldn't matter. Am I missing something? Either way, I ended up with the same results as in the video that I previously posted and I agree, if that means that my exhaust timing is slightly off, it shouldn't be giving me this problem anyway.
On the exhaust cam, the full diameter chord is on top; that is, the slot on the intake is above center and the slot on the exhaust is below center. Might be hard to see from the pic, but I believe that is accurate. The tool wouldn't have fit otherwise.
I still don't see why rotating a 1/4 is necessary. If I have the cams locked and I pre-load the pulley so that its timing marks line up with the cover, how does rotating it a 1/4 turn make a difference in the end? Looks like its purpose is to be able to make an accurate mark on the head so that it's easier to line back up. But just use the TB cover and it shouldn't matter. Am I missing something? Either way, I ended up with the same results as in the video that I previously posted and I agree, if that means that my exhaust timing is slightly off, it shouldn't be giving me this problem anyway.
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Didn't mean to sound judgy but I did. We all did that once, but we jump on it here because if you screw this up it costs you a big job.On timing marks,' using TDC is a force of habit. Thanks.
On a VVT car, the cam moves independently of the sprocket by +-2 teeth or so. When you do a timing belt job, you have to replace the belt with the moving sprocket clocked fully clockwise locked with the cam in the '1/2 return' position. Thats the reference given by Volvo.
If you used the cam lock tool, locked it, and then put the hub in per spec, its right though.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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xApprchsNfnty
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No judgement interpreted. Cheers.
Here are pics of timing stuff. I haven't made any adjustments:




All this looks correct right? I'd like to rule out that my current timing is an issue.
Here are pics of timing stuff. I haven't made any adjustments:




All this looks correct right? I'd like to rule out that my current timing is an issue.
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With the golden part twisted fully clockwise , it’s good
Three things moving on that exhaust hub
Cam shaft...now locked in correct position by tool ( that Centre part technically should face right and rest on the cam cover once you remove that bolt but no biggie)
The VVT hub, the gold soup cup, that will twist in the cam about two teeth worth
The gear sprocket on the vvvt hub, that will move 1/2 a tooth from the oval centers.
Set it up, tension correctly ( your hex wrench goes DOWN not up to tension) and pray for no ECM 644A
Three things moving on that exhaust hub
Cam shaft...now locked in correct position by tool ( that Centre part technically should face right and rest on the cam cover once you remove that bolt but no biggie)
The VVT hub, the gold soup cup, that will twist in the cam about two teeth worth
The gear sprocket on the vvvt hub, that will move 1/2 a tooth from the oval centers.
Set it up, tension correctly ( your hex wrench goes DOWN not up to tension) and pray for no ECM 644A
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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- bmdubya1198
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Everything looks perfect, no reason the timing should be out at this point, once the belt is on and tension is properly set, of course.
As for the TDC references, I think he's referring to TDC on each particular cylinder, like I am. That is simply for doing the leak down test. Like you said, setting up the timing on these engines does not use TDC in any way.
As for the TDC references, I think he's referring to TDC on each particular cylinder, like I am. That is simply for doing the leak down test. Like you said, setting up the timing on these engines does not use TDC in any way.
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