1998 2.4 Camshafts in 1999 T5

[erikv11]

Carb cleaner turns that carbon buildup to liquid in a few minutes. I like B-12 Chemtool. For the block surface spray it on then put a piece of glass over it. Come back in 15 minutes and wipe away most of the pitting. Get the leftovers with a razor blade but be careful not to gouge. For the valves you want to soak them in it to get the same effect, so the solvent doesn't evaporate.

I am stunned to hear that WD-40 might actually work in this application, will have to try it someday. WD-40 is usually semi-worthless as a solvent, though fine as a lubricant.

[bmdubya1198]

Those are NASTY! Cleaned up really nicely though!

What's with the dings on the combustion chamber? It looks like something made its way into the engine. Probably won't affect anything as long as the head is still sealing well, at least.

[xApprchsNfnty]

I tried soaking them in brake cleaner, wd-40, and gasoline with no noticeable results. 2 mins with a brass wheel and they shined right up. I put one in my angle grinder, flipped it upside-down on the side of my front step, and held the power button with my foot which also kept it in place. Then I put the valves in my drill and went at it. Worked a treat.

I don't know what all of that pitting is either, I've been wondering if burning oil has lowered my octane enough that it was detonating and doing some bad things. Could also just be bits of that carbon kicking around and burning in weird places? They don't bother me though. Other good news is that there is no sign of any head gasket leaking so I'll confidently just put it back together as is. I'll do the water test again on the valves before reinstalling it on the block once my valve seals are delivered. I was initially going to drop the pan, pop the pistons out, and re-ring them but I've decided not to, more effort than I want to put into it. We'll see if that changes over the next week as I sit here waiting.

[RickHaleParker]

I don't know what all of that pitting is either,

All five or just one cylinder?

[xApprchsNfnty]

All five cylinders had pretty significant pitting. They each look pretty close to this one:

[bmdubya1198]

Did you suck up sand or something? Damn!

That probably won't hurt how it runs, but it's pretty crazy to look at.

[RickHaleParker]

Pre detonation ... low octane gas + the carbon build up raise the compression ratio.

[bmdubya1198]

Pre detonation ... low octane gas + the carbon build up raise the compression ratio.

I think you're right.

[xApprchsNfnty]

What's the good word on reinstalling 'bad' lifters? I could cruise the JY for replacements but they'll probably cost more than I want to spend. Is ticking the only symptom or would it actually effect the valve operation?

Edit*
I need some clarification here. I always though that lifters should have some spring back when you press on the center piston. Am I wrong? Are they supposed to be really rigid and unable to be pressed down?

[RickHaleParker]

What's the good word on reinstalling 'bad' lifters? I could cruise the JY for replacements but they'll probably cost more than I want to spend. Is ticking the only symptom or would it actually effect the valve operation?

Edit*
I need some clarification here. I always though that lifters should have some spring back when you press on the center piston. Am I wrong? Are they supposed to be really rigid and unable to be pressed down?

Hydraulic Lifters should leak down. It might take up to 60 seconds for it to leak down. It should not take less then 5 seconds.

Put the lifter upside down in a cup of oil. Pump up the lifter. Then place steady pressure on it. Time how long it takes to leak down. If it will not pump up or leaks down too fast, most likely the check valve is defective. If it takes too long to leak down it probably clogged or a sticky plunger.

This test is supposed to be done on a calibrated leak-down tester but, I have not see one for a long time. Use your intuition.