1998 V70 AT camshaft position, no crank

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 05 Sep 2020, 04:34

Thank you for your help on this! I really appreciate it.

As I had taken photos of the camshaft ends before I took off the cover, and then after I took the cover off, I was able to situate all the components to the positions they were in when I turned off the motor. From there I was able to align the crankshaft and both ends of the camshafts, so the correct timing was established. After the two revolutions of the crankshaft, the tensioner was addressed, but not without error, re-tries, minor adjustments, etc...(the nature of my skill and the beast) over the last three days!

Yesterday afternoon I began to res-assemble all the other components I removed to be able to extract the cam cover. Am almost done with that process and added coolant before the rain came. Today, I'll add some oil, secure the upper motor mount bracket (still need to extract from the engine the threaded part of the bolt after the top part sheared off as I removed the bracket - any suggestions?), connect the battery, and cross my fingers when I turn the key. I'll keep you all posted!!

Thanks again abscate, FLX90, and RickHaleParker for all your help!!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 05 Sep 2020, 08:44

OK, the motor turns over, but does not start. AND when I turn the key to shut off the motor, the motor keeps running!!

Is there a bad connection somewhere???

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 05 Sep 2020, 15:47

I have reset the crankshaft and the cam sprockets twice, still the motor turns over, but will NOT start!
I changed fuel pump relay, this made no difference, except the motor did turn over and shut off when I turned the key off. But still no start.
Any suggestions?

Post by **abscate** » 05 Sep 2020, 16:10

Bring your cams and crank back to the mark and then pop off your distributor cap, see where the rotor is pointing. Should be forward to plug wire 1.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 08 Sep 2020, 20:31

Thank you, abscate!!!
While waiting for the above response, I took the time to clean each spark plug and cleaned out the spark plug wells. With the spark plugs out, I was able to add a tablespoon or so of fresh oil to each piston head (to stave off LMS!!!).

I managed to get the notches on the crankshaft lined up (again), with the distributor cap and CPS cover off I was able to line up the ends of the camshafts (again), then lined up the notches on the cam sprockets (again)!!! I found myself a small block of wood that I managed to fit between the sprockets and used my 10mm half-inch socket on my half-inch ratchet and positioned the end of the handle under the serpentine tensioner so the sprockets would not move. Tried the latter with just a block of wood, but the camshafts moved when I was tightening the bolts on the end of each camshaft. Adding the ratchet with the 10mm socket helped tremendously.

So, with everything lined up to a hair of where the notches, seams, and sprockets should be, I recited a prayer before turning the key to start the motor. Believe it or not, the engine started - I was amazed! I let the car idle for a few minutes, then shut the car off.

Upon starting the car then and a second time, the initial start up came with loud metal to metal noise, like the valves hitting against the cam followers (lifters) that lasted less than a minute. Then the motor ran as it should when idling.

I changed the oil and oil filter and added more coolant to the tank. The hose from the thermostat to the coolant tank had some leakage around the clamp to the thermostat, so I pulled the same hose off the Silver '98 V70 and installed that. Also tightened all the bolts to the water pump as there was some slight leakage. Re-connected the upper torque motor mount, and since I had the tire removed, I pulled off the rotor and pads to that side and replaced them in part to eliminate squealing noise. After a short test drive, the driver side brake began to squeal. Today, I replaced the rotor and pads to the front driver side. I could not tighten the guide pin - it kept wanting to come off as the very end of the pin (the part of the pin that gets screwed in) was coming out stripped. Took some time to correct those two pieces with a tap and dye set. I'll check this in the morning to see how the pin is holding up! I might have to drill a slightly larger hole to accommodate a small bolt, if the guide pin fix does not hold up.

If I am able I will post a video of the noise at start up. Maybe someone out there can help me identify the source of the noise.
Now, to check the air levels in each tire!! Thanks for all your help and guidance!!

Post by **abscate** » 09 Sep 2020, 03:10

If the engine sat for a long time it’s normal for the valve lifters to tick and rattle. Earl the 1998 took a week and a second oil change to synthetic before his lifters got quiet. Volvo says to keep rpms below 3000 until the lifters fully fill with oil.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 09 Sep 2020, 08:55

Thanks, abscate! Will watch my rpm gauge with bated breath

I have been trying to attach the video recording of the motor starting, but cannot seem to do this.
The file is saved as an MP4. I keep getting an error message about having the wrong file extension when I attempt to attach it here

Post by **abscate** » 10 Sep 2020, 02:02

Send it on email and I’ll see if I can link or post

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 13 Sep 2020, 08:04

Hey abscate, am having trouble with even sending it to myself!! I will have to try saving the file differently.

New developments:
Had the car running yesterday to make sure the newer hose from the thermostat to the coolant tank was not leaking. Previous hose was torn along side the top of the clamp, ended up losing most of the coolant after many stops and starts running errands on Friday. Fortunately, there was some coolant in the back of the car that I added to the tank, enough to travel the two miles to get home. Coolant was dripping from just about everything behind the cover to the timing belt/water pump/pulleys, etc. And steam had been noticeable after I had shut the car off, to inspect that side of the motor. I had previously installed a new thermostat, but did not notice anything wrong with the hose.
Yesterday, I changed the hose and then repaired a broken speed senor wire to the front driver's side. Started the car, and waited for it to stop the chattering/lifter ticking noise before moving the vehicle. I was about to put the car in drive when the car just stopped running.

I turned the key to the "off" position and then back to try to start the car, but there was absolutely nothing - no noise, no clicking sounds from the starter, nothing. I have no idea what could be wrong with it. Put a small maintainer charger on the battery last night, thinking maybe that was the cause. This morning, there is still no noise when I turn the key to start the car; just dead silence!!
I have disconnected both battery cables (cleaned the cable clamps and battery posts), and will check all the fuses again shortly.
Would repairing the speed sensor wire, then connecting it be part of the problem?
I did not disconnect the battery before connecting the sensor.
Appreciate any thoughts or recommendations on what I should do next!

Post by **abscate** » 13 Sep 2020, 08:08

This is on the standard shift, 1998 right?

Check battery voltage first - should be a nice health 12,7Volts at rest.

When you turn the key in KP 2 are there any lights on the dash or are you electrically dead?

KP - key position

KP 0 - lock and remove key
KP 1 First light on dash, steering unlocked
KP2 ALl dash lights on, car runs here
KP 3 Starting (cranking) position