1998 V70 AT camshaft position, no crank

[5rivers]

Do you mean the small wire that goes to the flat piece sort of like a fuse tong? Next to the bolt that the two huge red wires are attached to? That's the only small wire attached to the starter.

[abscate]

Give me a second to add a pic.

It’s important to get this right

Read bottom caption first !!

[abscate]

The top big nut and terminal on the small cylinder is alway at B+ so be careful around that

It can’t shock you but it can weld a screwdriver you are holding if it touches ground

[5rivers]

Unfortunately, nothing happened when I connected the tab on the solenoid with the battery positive.

[abscate]

Have a look at the pigtail and see if it’s corroded. It’s a bit academic as the starter has to come out to get either replaced or rebuilt

You can try putting 12v into bottom screen BUT

This is hard to do safely. It needs a big heavy wire to carry 100 amps and anything you touch will melt if you pass that kind of current through it

It’s two m8, 14 mm hex head flange bolts to get the starter out , and another m8 12 mm to release the front plate if it’s still there

[5rivers]

Ok, so we know the car won't start based a seriously dead starter! But, what concerns me, is why the car suddenly stopped running after starting it only 5-10 minutes before it died.

There was quite a bit of corrosion on the small tab and inside the plug that goes to it. I managed to get most of it out, but that did not help with starting. The braided section between the solenoid and the major section of the starter had only a light touch of corrosion.

Will taking the starter apart and cleaning it make any difference?

[RickHaleParker]

Put a test light or a Voltmeter on the solenoid wire and turn the key to start. The light should light or the Voltmeter should show B+ voltage.

[abscate]

Ok, so we know the car won't start based a seriously dead starter! But, what concerns me, is why the car suddenly stopped running after starting it only 5-10 minutes before it died.

There was quite a bit of corrosion on the small tab and inside the plug that goes to it. I managed to get most of it out, but that did not help with starting. The braided section between the solenoid and the major section of the starter had only a light touch of corrosion.

Will taking the starter apart and cleaning it make any difference?

Do Ricks test above to see if the starter is the ‘only’ problem...

Maybe with the starter out you can try spinning the motor using the lower nut , I’ll try to write this up in morning.

If the lower part spins you can try replacing just the solenoid, the smaller upper cylinder

That’s likely the cause of the sudden failure. I can take one off one of my parts starters

[5rivers]

I used my multi-meter with one probe inside the plastic cover so it would touch the copper stem to the solenoid clip and the other probe to the positive battery post, the reading was the same as testing the battery, 13.0 volts.

Should I remove the starter at this point?

Here's another piece of the puzzle:
A few weeks back when I was working on the cam cover, timing belt, etc..., it rained quite heavily for a few days. The section around the fuse box was full of water. I think it was suppose to drain but didn't. I stuffed a few microfiber cloths in this area to capture the water, rinsed them out and did it again until all the water was gone. Could this have any impact on the current problem the car is having (no start condition)?

Appreciate any thoughts/recommendations! Thanks!!

[5rivers]

I finally was able to remove the starter! It's been a while since I've had to do that and I was surprised at all the parts I had to remove to get it out!!
So, the center pin/bolt does move, not freely, but it moves! Should I spray some silicone into it? Or something else that might free it up?

Appreciate your replies!!