Thanks! I really did fall in love with the color at first sight. I'm pretty good with a rotary buffer and after I get it running it's going to get a full wash and polish. I got some friends in a body shop that can hopefully do some paintless dent repair down the line. As i'm sitting now this will never be painted; I'm way to broke for that haha.MoVolvos wrote: ↑20 Jan 2021, 20:15 *
Whatever you do don't repaint the dings, dimples and small dents as the color is beautiful and is still in exceptional shape. By far the best dent removal guy on Youtube. A true craftsman and amazing results. I've painted an entire vehicle before and it's a ton of work and almost impossible to match existing paint.
I prefer to live with a little blemish rather than the slightest hue difference from a repaint.
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Willie Beamans 98 s70 no money build
- WillieBeamen
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 19 November 2020
- Year and Model: 1998
- Location: east nc
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
Re: Willie Beamans 98 s70 no money build
- MoVolvos
- Posts: 5273
- Joined: 15 January 2012
- Year and Model: S&V70XC,S60,C30,XC90
- Location: NC
- Has thanked: 310 times
- Been thanked: 524 times
I use to think Ceramic Coating was a gimmick but a member from another forum said he had been using it for 5 years and it has worked out really well for him. Son has been cleaning all our cars and I hate to see him work so hard. He'd mentioned the Ceramic Coat and after doing some research we purchased 3 bottles. Use about 4/5 of 1 bottle on the C30, including all exterior glass and headlights. Will refinish the wheels this summer so didn't put any on. Gave a pretty good discount on 3 bottles. I felt bad as we had not washed one car in 5 years and the rest about the same. The rains here can get pretty Catty and Doggie so that has been a blessing.WillieBeamen wrote: ↑20 Jan 2021, 20:43Thanks! I really did fall in love with the color at first sight. I'm pretty good with a rotary buffer and after I get it running it's going to get a full wash and polish. I got some friends in a body shop that can hopefully do some paintless dent repair down the line. As i'm sitting now this will never be painted; I'm way to broke for that haha.MoVolvos wrote: ↑20 Jan 2021, 20:15 *
Whatever you do don't repaint the dings, dimples and small dents as the color is beautiful and is still in exceptional shape. By far the best dent removal guy on Youtube. A true craftsman and amazing results. I've painted an entire vehicle before and it's a ton of work and almost impossible to match existing paint.
I prefer to live with a little blemish rather than the slightest hue difference from a repaint.
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I didn't think to take pictures as we just had over 48 hours curing in the garage before he needed to return to school. I can tell you the black trim with a single wipe is back to factory condition. Put on and wait for 5 minutes depending on temp and just lightly buff.
The condition of the exterior of your car for sure makes it worthwhile putting in all that mechanical work you are doing.
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Ceramic coating towards the bottom of the page. By the way I use to have a 98 S80 T5 and had repainted the interior of the headlights. Terrible but slightly better than the powdery and brown reflector coating. Check out the projectors by ndphotonl on the same page and in the previous page I show the Angel Eyes on the lens in front of the Bi-Xenon projectors.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=78596&start=1340
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Blessings,
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35316
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1507 times
- Been thanked: 3822 times
I love all my leather in the P80s but worked on my first all cloth interior this year. That’s a really nice cloth and very high end.
Without kids or dogs I would like that in my cars.
Abbys Evita had the cheaper vinyl/ cloth mix, tastefully covered with Greek seat covers, but I’m halfway through replacing with nice C70 leather
Without kids or dogs I would like that in my cars.
Abbys Evita had the cheaper vinyl/ cloth mix, tastefully covered with Greek seat covers, but I’m halfway through replacing with nice C70 leather
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- CIK7
- Posts: 1574
- Joined: 14 January 2019
- Year and Model: 95 854T & V70trailer
- Location: Antlers, Oklahoma
- Has thanked: 329 times
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Manual and NA! Great combo! I may never go back to a fwd Volvo again (unless an 04 S80 t6 pops up somewhere) but the NA manual is the way to go! I strongly wish I could put an M90 in my 960. Willie, I also have a build thread going, but its for a trailer build not normal car build. '98 XC trailer build' on the main p80 forum.
95 854 Turbo 258K, auto, current
09 Rav4 Ltd3.5Fwd, red, 208K, current
98 V GLE/SE red, 379k (277k), 5sp, trailer in progress...
05 CRV EX AWD, Navy, 170K/184k, sold
03 Accord 2dr V6 silver, 196K/214K, 6sp, t-boned, sold
98 S GT white, 175K, 5sp, sold
96 964 silver, 146K, diff&trans/engine self-destr, crushed
98 XC black, 151K, flooded&bent rod, crushed
01 V Base white, 168k, traded for XC
09 Impala LT1 gray, 196K, sold for 01
09 Rav4 Ltd3.5Fwd, red, 208K, current
98 V GLE/SE red, 379k (277k), 5sp, trailer in progress...
05 CRV EX AWD, Navy, 170K/184k, sold
03 Accord 2dr V6 silver, 196K/214K, 6sp, t-boned, sold
98 S GT white, 175K, 5sp, sold
96 964 silver, 146K, diff&trans/engine self-destr, crushed
98 XC black, 151K, flooded&bent rod, crushed
01 V Base white, 168k, traded for XC
09 Impala LT1 gray, 196K, sold for 01
- WillieBeamen
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 19 November 2020
- Year and Model: 1998
- Location: east nc
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
I hope Yall didn't think I gave up haha. I ended up pulling the head off while Ii was doing the timing belt, I was getting blown HG symptoms. but it ended up being a clogged upper thermostat steam line to reservoir hose. Oh well. I was bad about updating this so this might be multiple posts. This was far from OE Volvo parts, and corners where cut but I'm anal so I expect it to be apart again in the future. I have a pile of receipts ill get together so yall can flame me haha. Im approx in it about 12-1600 in all currently including machine work.
Anyways this is where I left off. I had pulled the intake while the transmission was off. hoping to ride on the old timing belt for awhile.

Out w the old

I don't feel gross when my forehead touches it, someone punched the air bag in the past lol. leather woooo

I fixed my evap nipple with the only thing I could find locally with the correct threads. brass refrigerator fitting, probly break w/ever

pressed my bushing. this was way more dramatic then it needed to be. I see they updated this part, gee i wonder why.
Called my sister and tossed the transmission in between rain storms. Ebay slave 40.00 re used the clutch, left RMS alone.

Das in. went in suspiciously TOOO easy. had my doubts about the cheap slave. used the "dangle method" with the chain and just fell in. Also put skateboard bearings in my shifter cables.


Had some troubles bleeding the clutch line, kept getting leaks at this fitting. I'm sure you already see the missing "top hat" oring missing. It got cocked sideways in the plastic "pipe"

Subframe in.


New Axles

intake on, Big truck battery terminals


At this point it ran and drove around. I was getting some weird electrical gremlins. and I still had no instrument cluster action. Adding the blown head gasket symptoms and I kicked the idea of parting it out around a couple of times. I came to the conclusion that if I can get the electrical ironed out I'd pull the head. So that's what I did, ended up being corroded fuses after all the wire tracing. Took the chance to replace my cabin air filter that had a tree growing out of it.




Fixed the gauge cluster with my junkyard haul.


With everything working, I decided to pull the head and do the timing belt.
CONT
Anyways this is where I left off. I had pulled the intake while the transmission was off. hoping to ride on the old timing belt for awhile.

Out w the old

I don't feel gross when my forehead touches it, someone punched the air bag in the past lol. leather woooo

I fixed my evap nipple with the only thing I could find locally with the correct threads. brass refrigerator fitting, probly break w/ever

pressed my bushing. this was way more dramatic then it needed to be. I see they updated this part, gee i wonder why.
Called my sister and tossed the transmission in between rain storms. Ebay slave 40.00 re used the clutch, left RMS alone.

Das in. went in suspiciously TOOO easy. had my doubts about the cheap slave. used the "dangle method" with the chain and just fell in. Also put skateboard bearings in my shifter cables.


Had some troubles bleeding the clutch line, kept getting leaks at this fitting. I'm sure you already see the missing "top hat" oring missing. It got cocked sideways in the plastic "pipe"

Subframe in.


New Axles

intake on, Big truck battery terminals


At this point it ran and drove around. I was getting some weird electrical gremlins. and I still had no instrument cluster action. Adding the blown head gasket symptoms and I kicked the idea of parting it out around a couple of times. I came to the conclusion that if I can get the electrical ironed out I'd pull the head. So that's what I did, ended up being corroded fuses after all the wire tracing. Took the chance to replace my cabin air filter that had a tree growing out of it.




Fixed the gauge cluster with my junkyard haul.


With everything working, I decided to pull the head and do the timing belt.
CONT
- WillieBeamen
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 19 November 2020
- Year and Model: 1998
- Location: east nc
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
Back apart, intake and exhaust off.


Head off, while parts slowly started trickling it. Spent a lot of time waiting on the mailman. went with gates everything.



Felpro gasket kit from rockauto came damaged, They promptly refunded me and told me to keep it. But I still used the cam and valve seals. 5 stars for rock auto.
At this point I attempted to disassemble the head to do the valve seals. It was a huge waste of time and I ended up having the machine shop do my valves. It was worth it.


waiting for the machine shop, I had to replace some studs and the waterpump. cleaned up the waterpipe and painted it black.



took 2 weeks ran out of stuff to do. picked double side tape off the door so i can retape the side molding. just looked at it occasionally.


Got the head back from the machine shop finally ($362). It was a piece of art and i felt bad installing it. Also snagged a reman bosch starter for 40 dollars




Had to respray the cam cover dollar store spray gold though.




It was all worth it just to delete the bs SAS valve

Replaced the rad. sure yall know whats going on here.

more gates

Together.

It runs great. there's still a clunk in the front end and the rear brakes need to be gone through closer, because somethings rubbing back there and NC requires the ebrake to work. fun right? hahah


Head off, while parts slowly started trickling it. Spent a lot of time waiting on the mailman. went with gates everything.



Felpro gasket kit from rockauto came damaged, They promptly refunded me and told me to keep it. But I still used the cam and valve seals. 5 stars for rock auto.
At this point I attempted to disassemble the head to do the valve seals. It was a huge waste of time and I ended up having the machine shop do my valves. It was worth it.


waiting for the machine shop, I had to replace some studs and the waterpump. cleaned up the waterpipe and painted it black.



took 2 weeks ran out of stuff to do. picked double side tape off the door so i can retape the side molding. just looked at it occasionally.


Got the head back from the machine shop finally ($362). It was a piece of art and i felt bad installing it. Also snagged a reman bosch starter for 40 dollars




Had to respray the cam cover dollar store spray gold though.




It was all worth it just to delete the bs SAS valve

Replaced the rad. sure yall know whats going on here.

more gates

Together.

It runs great. there's still a clunk in the front end and the rear brakes need to be gone through closer, because somethings rubbing back there and NC requires the ebrake to work. fun right? hahah
- WillieBeamen
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 19 November 2020
- Year and Model: 1998
- Location: east nc
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
runs.
- WillieBeamen
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 19 November 2020
- Year and Model: 1998
- Location: east nc
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
Honestly, I don't think there's a temp rating. It's just some cheap gold metallic from DG. It's been holding on pretty well. The silver paint the machine shop put on it was still kind of tacky so I just added some pigments. I take no credit on the paint at all. the machine shop did a pretty good job.

Continuing on my Volvo adventure. I haven't updated this in a while because I've been too busy driving it haha. I finished ironing out the rear brake. I rebuilt the calipers. (even reused all the seals after cleaning with denatured alcohol shhhh.) and $5 rockauto closeout API pads, the rotors got a couple swipes with a wire brush. Images are the only way I can describe that nightmare. I'm ASE cert in brakes don't worry lol.

Seized caliper piston. With no air at my house I used my grease gun to push the piston out.

nightmare. I used this time to pull that stupid Appalachian state university sticker off the trunk

Split the caliper to clean out the grease with more denatured alcohol ran a cheap hone in the bore, and polished the pistons. After going this far, cant forget the paint. flat black.


That's just the passenger side haha. But I marched on. The driver side caliper was in far worse shape, and I managed to destroy the caliper pin hole bore slide thing.

WoMp WoMp
Needless to say, I tossed it. I now horde good junkyard rear calipers for this reason. It seems like if the rear brakes are neglected the pins corrode and its impossible to remove the pins (at least for my impatient 3lb hammer swings). Reman calipers are triple digits so naturally I got one from the junkyard, which was cleaner than mine and after a quick coat of paint I assembled the rear brakes and set the ebrake for my safety inspection. Did the fuel filter while it was in the air.
After a quick ride to the inspection station (my friends shop) I acquired my tags. Felt pretty good, ran decent but something was off. Only was throwing a code for the deleted SAS BS (I've since deleted via diode)

Sitting proud. Tagged and insured. I swapped to the period correct emblem.

At this point I threw some r134 in and got the air conditioning working. Just riding around, tightening loose fasteners. Getting my first p80 impressions. Listening to the dash rattle, oh the dash, I think I zone out to the sound at this point. It drives me bonkers. I've been searching all of east NC for a black lower dash to swap and some door panels.
Anyways, now that the air conditioning was working, some flaws appeared in the charging circuit due to the increased demand from the fans and lights. alternator was only putting out 11.2V.
So after some searching I ordered a new voltage regulator from maniac electric
That didn't fix my problem

So I pulled the crusty old alternator out, and ordered a reman off ebay.


I got everything back together and it failed.



I was racking my brain on why a reman alternator would poop out so fast. I'm not going to lie I became frustrated but getting a refund for the eBay alternator calmed me some. The first alternator was only partially failed, ok bad diode. reman alternator worked for 30 seconds before it smoked itself (literally physical smoke). So I became paranoid, was there a short? bad ground? bad cable connector? If I got another reman will it eat itself too? I really went down the rabbit hole haha.

I also ran a new ground wire directly from the negative battery to an alternator bolt.
The new quest was finding a pre98 alternator in the junkyard.
Local yard? 99v70 and a 00 v70. Went to the next town over 2hrs away and pulled 2 off respected 98 s70's. Took them to orileys where both of them failed, took them back for my refund. So on to the next town, where I found a 96 850 turbo that suffered from a broken timing belt that just so happened to have a recently replaced bosch remanufactured alternator.
Blown ebay reman on left, junkyard right. I noticed the pully difference and assumed 850 and s70 accessories were a tad different so I went to see my friend with an impact.
pullys swapped.
13.9v
I've been putzing around town with it. door panel less. The 5 speed NA rips, it runs amazing and starts everytime. (knock on wood) The AC compressor is short cycling so its low on Freon already, the compressor glows green in direct sunlight (leaking from every seal) so i've just been driving at night when its cool. I figured it would be easier to fix without it being full of metal partials from a catastrophic failure. I'm going to take some more pictures soon of the entire car tomorrow. recently I've just been driving it and enjoying the fruits of my labor around town. It still needs tires bad, and I've noticed that the rear suspension is sagging an inch in the rear side (25.5in) to (24.5in) side. its wearing the rear tires FAST and it tracks all over the place. it makes it uncomfortable to drive any long distance from constant corrections to keep it in the lane.
I replaced my drier vent for the heat shield and put the thermostatic air control hose back on. It does nothing, but its fun to laugh at. I'm thinking of a way to make a new "TAC'less" heatshield.
also got a junkyard hinge to fix my floppy door. but I need to pull the door off and have the gigantic crack on the door welded.
The rear suspension is next on the list. Springs, shocks, delta links, and inner end links. Definitely been watching the classifieds.
Grand total so far is sitting around $1700, ill upload my receipts and a grand total eventually.
bye for now.
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