Replacing All Engine Mounts What Order Would You Do?

ericmci · Post by **ericmci** » 05 Sep 2021, 18:48

Hi,

So I am replacing the whole kit on my '99 S70 GLT FWD
Upper Mount including the torque rod mount
Hydraulic front and rear, transmission torque mount, and the passenger side pad.

Given that I am doing all of them is there an order of replacement that would make things easier.
And if anyone has torque specs it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

-Eric

Post by **Blacklab467** » 05 Sep 2021, 19:24

I did this last year, doesn't really matter what order. How many miles? You may elect to replace subframe bushings also, it makes the biggest difference. I hope you bought only OEM parts for this job.

ericmci · Post by **ericmci** » 05 Sep 2021, 19:41

All OEM or OE
171k
Sub frame bushings look o-k but I was going to buy the poly inserts from IPD to stiffen them.
Also planning on measuring the old front sway bar bushings and cutting them off and clamping on new ones but those are Octobers
projects.
I was planning to do front and rear hydraulic mounts - then the passenger side pad and the transmission torque tomorrow.
Top mounts on Tuesday.
I have a decent trolley jack do you think that will give me the precision to lower the engine smoothly enough to line up the front hydraulic mount -is that fiddly?
The rear hydraulic just needs the tranny lifted a bit right? Not the engine and transmission in order to remove it?

DId you go by torque specs or - Good and tight?

And XC 70 and Duramax LBZ- that's not bad at all.
Thanks!

Post by **Chuck W** » 05 Sep 2021, 21:40

Don't bother with the poly inserts.

As someone who's used them a couple of times, just do the Delrin ones if you're doing them at all.

Post by **Blacklab467** » 05 Sep 2021, 21:59

Don't bother with poly inserts! If you're suspicious of the subframe replace them with OEM, otherwise leave them alone. You don't need any special tools for the front and rear mounts, although the rear is a little tricky with having to pass your socket and extensions above the sway bar and using a u-joint 3/8 drive. I've heard of people dropping the rear of the subframe but I don't remember it being necessary on my 03. And yes your hydraulic jack will be fine for the front. It's a pretty easy job except for the back mount and should take less than 3 hours for all with a big reward at the end, if they're worn out it will make a big difference! Mine had an almost completely separated front mount.

ericmci · Post by **ericmci** » 05 Sep 2021, 22:26

I think you might be right about just replacing the bushings and it's not that much money.
Thanks for helping to nudge me in that direction
I can replace them without having to drop the sub right? Just a little drill bit action on the plastic to remove the old ones or so I have read.
Will it necessitate a new alignment if I do?

I think with an extension and a u-joint adapter that I can get a short socket on the rear mount without having to buy a set of swivel sockets. But then again.... new tools
I know my torque mount and plate need it and the front hydraulic looks kind of perished.
I don't have a lot of visible shake or vibration but the shifting is noticeable at times and in and out of gears etc.
I do think I will notice a big difference.
Last year I replace the front and rear suspension. Struts- inner and out tie rods- control arms- shocks- delta links- articulating links- springs etc.
Some of it was needed and some of it was - Well while I am here.
And now I have that peace of mind and it already handles like a new car in many ways I am looking forward to this feeling too.
I will report back with progress
Thanks so much!

ericmci · Post by **ericmci** » 06 Sep 2021, 15:37

I get a better look at the front and rear hydraulic mounts today.
A lot of things in the way. I can get to the nuts easily enough with a swivel socket but-
I am wondering how much I need to remove to get the old parts out and new ones in.
For example, in the rear, my mount is covered in some kind of metal shield/cowl.
I was using this FCP video as a guide but in this case there seems to be a significant difference between the 850 T and the S70 T

Any idea what parts- hoses- dipstick-fans- etc I should expect to remove to get the hydraulic mounts done?
The lower pad mount- trans torque mount- and upper mounts all seem quite acccesible.

Thanks again!

Post by **scot850** » 06 Sep 2021, 19:20

Watch out for the rear mount. There is a tab on it that has to be located in a hole on the bracket. Be careful also jacking the engine too high as you can damage the drive axles. Volvo does have a max. height you can jack the engine, but I can't recall what it is now. Just be very careful and watch the axles.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Sep 2021, 02:13

It’s one Imperial inch for that height limit

Raise engine:
Raise engine max 30 mm. Use jack tool No. 998 5972, or equivalent.
Remove two engine mount bolts and slacken the third bolt.
WARNING: The inner, left constant velocity joint will be damaged if the engine is raised by more than 30 mm .

ericmci · Post by **ericmci** » 07 Sep 2021, 07:34

Yikes.
Thanks for this.
In the FCP video it did seem like he didn't raise it too much but on inch is barely Any travel.
I am wondering now if I should replace the hydraulic mounts at all.
My side pad seems good- my transmission torque mount is def shot as is my Upper mount.
I can see the front hydraulic Mount it looks fine from my limited view. The rear is covered in metal shell of of sorts
so no good way to sinpect it visually.

How often do these go? Is there a way to test them.
I have all six mounts I can do a total refresh here - but do I need to.
I would obviously like to but - is there a need vs hassle and risk?