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2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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erikv11
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Re: 2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement

Post by erikv11 »

That's good to confirm the snap ring pliers are not for removing the turbo, thanks.

Maybe what jonesg is also implying is that the turbo may indeed need work given all that smoke and the sudden onset. Clogged PCV would creep up on you gradually. That "circle clamp" thing is called a V-band clamp. Holds the turbo to the exhaust flange housing, the piece that sits between the turbo and the exhaust. But anyway, you need to do some diagnosis.

Agreed and more with jonesg on the drain tube gaskets, this is a key point - if you pull the turbo then *absolutely* change both ends, paper gasket on one and circular rubber seal on the other. The drain tube seals are by far the most common oil leak related to these turbos. But if we're taking parts here I'd also pick up new copper washers for the lines, and plan on replacing all vac lines to the turbo unless they are recently done.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

TisMe
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Post by TisMe »

Someone on the forum once recommended, if you're overhauling your vacuum lines, to get this hosing. I haven't used it yet but seems quality, it's sitting in an oily corner for when I do the deed.
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I think it’s all 5 mm hose on the turbo lines, isn’t it?
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Post by TisMe »

abscate wrote: 18 Nov 2021, 08:30 I think it’s all 5 mm hose on the turbo lines, isn’t it?
Great catch, thanks for the correction! I'm trying to reverify but coming up short. The op could have been referencing a different application for the 4mm and I mixed signals. Maybe someone else will care to pitch in.

I'm finding reference to 7mm, 6.6mm, and 5mm all for different uses on the car. 5mm sounds correct for the general overhaul.
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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

This place http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ sells a nice thick-walled hose though I agree other sources are likely good. Anyway, they offer even number sizes e.g. 4-6-8-10mm. I use 4mm for the turbo lines.

4mm is good for most of the lines https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... hp?t=65002 and 5mm may work too, I just haven't tried it.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

notny41
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Post by notny41 »

I hate to even start the thing because it smokes so much. I will try to get the PCV glove test done on it. Assuming it is the turbo, is it ok to run the engine even though all of that smoke is coming out?

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

its steam, not smoke unless the steam dissipates and turns into blue smoke which would be oil. Mine did both.
You have to run it to diagnose, have you checked the compressor for runout or shaft slop?
Also test proper operation of waste gate . (youtube).
IPD sells 3 color coded turbo vac hose kit,
red,yellow,blue hoses makes it easy to keep track of whats what.

notny41
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Post by notny41 »

I haven't check the turbo yet. So you are saying it would be fine to run for short periods of time as long as a person keeps an eye on coolant level?

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Coolant level and the oil level

Keep your foot out of the pedal and drive it like it’s loved until you sort it out
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Post by TisMe »

As long as you don't redline it in your driveway while diagnosing, you're not going to do anymore damage than what's already manifest. If your PCV system is clogged, your main worry is blowing engine seals. That primarily happens when the turbo kicks in and heavy pressure is pushed back through the crankcase due to your clogged PCV. Your cam and crank seals, which are no huge deal to replace, will likely blow before the main seal.

The main seal blowing is a game-changer, expensive OR time-consuming, which is why it's great you're doing this now.
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