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Massive Oil Leak

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Oka
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Re: Massive Oil Leak

Post by Oka »

jonesg wrote: 12 Nov 2021, 03:20
TisMe wrote: 11 Nov 2021, 18:54 I would go ahead and pull that engine mount back off, and retrace your steps back toward to the far exhaust cam seal, then play with the reluctor wheel. Just for fun :) from the maintenance you listed, I don't see what else could make the described noise.
Retracing is a good approach, could very well be the motor mount itself.
WHen I lost a coil the engine made a knocking noise under load ( on 4 cyls) , turned out to be the motor mount.
The noise went away when the coil was replaced.
When I was pulling down the oil pan, I realized the Lower Engine Torque Strut Mount. I got a new one and replaced it.

Oka
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Post by Oka »

Just got back from checking the whole work I did. I would have to pull out the intake manifold.
Then I was thinking. The sound is caused by moving parts, so, it should be the engine or the serpentine belt and timing belt zone.

When I had started the car, the sound did not sound like knocking sound; it was not heavy.
It sounded kinda "practa practa practa practa practa . . . " in quick succession.
It sounded like there is a free-willing nut or metal object inside something some moving heavy metals.
I was thinking, maybe some nut may have falling into the engine block, but where.
In my work, the opening to the engine were through the spark plugs, when the oil pan was pulled or the opening through the breather box.
Or could it be the VVT?

The interesting is, manually turning the engine does not produce any noise. I turned it hand full of times, no noise. One thing I experiences was, manually cranking the engine, the turn does not go smoothly. Every about (clock term) 25mins, the turn would hold a little, that is, I would have to put force to it to turn; not much force but significant enough to bring it up here. If the breaker bar is at 12oclock, it hold up at 12:25 (clock time). At 11:45, the bar held up (tighter) at 12:10, and so on.

I am really not in the best of mood about my issue here, after all the work I've done. Oh well, such is life.

Hope you all had good enough Thanksgiving period.
Cheers

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

With the plugs in, thst tightening of the engine is each piston reaching compression stroke. You even described the period perfectly fir the 5 cylinder engine, a bit less than on the half hour on the “ clock”

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jonesg  
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Post by jonesg »

Oka wrote: 28 Nov 2021, 00:08 Just got back from checking the whole work I did. I would have to pull out the intake manifold.
Then I was thinking. The sound is caused by moving parts, so, it should be the engine or the serpentine belt and timing belt zone.

When I had started the car, the sound did not sound like knocking sound; it was not heavy.
It sounded kinda "practa practa practa practa practa . . . " in quick succession.
It sounded like there is a free-willing nut or metal object inside something some moving heavy metals.
I was thinking, maybe some nut may have falling into the engine block, but where.
In my work, the opening to the engine were through the spark plugs, when the oil pan was pulled or the opening through the breather box.
Or could it be the VVT?

The interesting is, manually turning the engine does not produce any noise. I turned it hand full of times, no noise. One thing I experiences was, manually cranking the engine, the turn does not go smoothly. Every about (clock term) 25mins, the turn would hold a little, that is, I would have to put force to it to turn; not much force but significant enough to bring it up here. If the breaker bar is at 12oclock, it hold up at 12:25 (clock time). At 11:45, the bar held up (tighter) at 12:10, and so on.

I am really not in the best of mood about my issue here, after all the work I've done. Oh well, such is life.

Hope you all had good enough Thanksgiving period.
Cheers
mechanics stethascope would track down the noise.

Oka
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Post by Oka »

jonesg wrote: 28 Nov 2021, 06:40
mechanics stethascope would track down the noise.
I have one of that tool. It would work if the engine is running. After work, put all back, I heard the noise and turned off the ignition right away; have not tried it again. It sounded like a nut was left inside the engine. Not a heavy sound like two parts touching but kinda the high pitched high frequency sound. It sounded like "practa practa practa practa practa . . . " in quick succession.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Can you get a recording of it and post it up?
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Oka wrote: 28 Nov 2021, 00:00
TisMe wrote: 23 Nov 2021, 12:23
Oka wrote: 23 Nov 2021, 11:56

This I know for sure. Throttle body is regular bolt head; it's an M6x80 bolt.
Interesting, the only other place I've seen a bolt like that is on my wheel bearings. But that was also a regular bolt head. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Oka wrote: 23 Nov 2021, 12:02 Just curious and nosey. Is the "E30" on the plate, a BMW engine designation?
Questions offer knowledge, no worries :)

E30 is the chassis designation, running from '83-91. The prior generation were E21's. The following generation was the E36, then E46... They never made badges of the chassis style, which is why I was stoked to get the plate. You'll see badges like 325i, meaning 3-series > 2.5L > Inline (or maybe Injection). Or 535is: 5-series > 3.5L > Inline Sport.

The earliest model E30s had M10 engines, only a few years into their cycle they changed them to M20s. So assuming that E30 was an engine design makes a lot of sense!
I asked about your place cause I have an E23 engine (1985 735i). Have not touched it in years. Was wondering if your plate meant something else. By the way, someone here in Anchorage has the BMW Isetta 600 (one-door).

About the bolt. I found it on my work table when I was finishing putting things back. No one can identify it. Stunning indeed.
I’m not sure that’s a Volvo bolt. Volvo uses Bulten as their hardware MFG, and the HDW is someone else’s mark.

Internal hex bolts are used on the AC hard lines, some small fastening apps, maybe connecting rods and besting journals. I think the oil pump too, maybe.

Oil Pan bolts too
Empty Nester
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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Oka
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Post by Oka »

Default
Could the "clattering" noise when I started the car come from either the VVT or the starter?
Could something nut or a washer have fallen into the starter 'teeth'?
If I manually turn the engine and no noise, how could it come from the VVT since all wheels move.

Oka
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Post by Oka »

Just Googled Volvo starter to see how the Volvo's would orient and by looking at the one in the car. Something could not have falling into it, that left the VVT. The latter, I still doubt since no noise when manually turn the engine.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The VVT operates on oil pressure, which is zero when you manually crank.
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